AVS Forum banner

3021 - 3040 of 3075 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,849 Posts
Starting my build today.. Has anyone wood veneered these? I am using MDF and was considering doing a wood veneer on all sides except the front (baffle) and painting it black with a a DIY cover over the front. Would love to see pics of any that have been veneered or even plywood and a finish..
Most everything in my sig is similar to what you're considering.

While not truly a V.B.S.S. my PA460 build is based on it's design.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
So.. Been working on 2 slot port boxes the last couple days. Looks like I kinda painted myself into a corner. All the pics of the other builds I’ve seen show the front (baffle) as the last panel being installed. Using the pics and cutlist from the slot port version mentioned in this thread, the front panel sits completely inside the outer box. Its gonna be a tight fit but hopefully there will be enough PL3 remaining to seal it up as its expands and sets. I’m also using a brad nailer so that should help.

Now putting box 2 together and trying to decide if I should do a side panel last..

Has anyone else run into this issue? Or am I just a dumbass?? Lol!



I’m


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,731 Posts
I haven't done one of these subs but I have always installed the baffle last. If you aren't 100% confident in your circle cutting do that before installing the baffle. Much easier to make a new baffle if it isn't already installed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
I haven't done one of these subs but I have always installed the baffle last. If you aren't 100% confident in your circle cutting do that before installing the baffle. Much easier to make a new baffle if it isn't already installed.
All the diagrams I’ve see have the baffle panel set up against the other edges. This slot port design has all the edges around the baffle panel.. Just worried about the edges not sealing well because I have to slide/squeeze the baffle into place. The glue might all get pushed off the edge. I guess I can always reach inside through the cutout and put a bead along the i side edges too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,849 Posts
If building a box in the fashion you have pictured in your first pic above then yes, a side panel would be the last panel to be applied (outside of an outer baffle that may cover the entire face).

ETA: Take a look at the "UM12-22 builds" thread in my sig for another alternative.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
One more question.. I kinda hijacked another thread with this earlier so sorry for the double post.. Just didn’t get a response and that discussion was getting too technical for me, lol!

Stuffing:

I have a bunch of this 3-4” thick egg crate style foam. I’m thinking it may not be dense enough though.. I’m currently building a slot ported VBSS and was wondering if this is worth using? Thanks!






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,872 Posts
A ported sub should not need any lining, unless it has a very long dimension that could produce a standing wave inside the box within the passband. Typically, box resonance is not a problem if is at a frequency higher than (and preferably double) the crossover frequency.

For example, I have subs that have a chamber height of 4.5 ft., which yields an end to end box resonance of about 124 Hz. I cross over at less than half that (60 Hz), so it is not a problem. I threw a couple cheap polyfil pillows in there anyway, to try to damp that resonance in case I ever crossed over higher.

If your longest dimension is 3.5 ft or less, the box resonance would be 160 Hz or above, allowing the use of a typical 80 Hz crossover with no issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
I'm about to start building 2 of the slim VBSS subs with a slot port and am wanting to do either the 20hz tune or the 15hz tune but am undecided. Any thoughts would be appreciated!

I've read this thread from post 1 to the end and still am unsure. I know I can do a brace down the center of the 20hz tune and block a port to get the 15hz tune but I'd rather just build the proper size one to start out with if possible.

I don't listen at loud volumes right now due to being in a rental and I read some of Matt's posts stating that the 20hz tune is better if just 1 or 2 subs are built and the 15hz tune is suited to 4+ or if you don't listen too loudly. When we move into our own place in 2 years hopefully I'll be building 2 more subs. Either 2 more VBSS subs or a bigger ported (11-14 cu ft) UM18-22 tuned to 16hz-17hz. Would it be easier to EQ them together if I build the 15hz VBSS? Or is tuning the VBSS slightly higher at 20hz easier? Or does it just depend on the specific room if they play nice with each other if they aren't tuned the exact same. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Hi, I'm finally back and I decided to go by DIY rabbit hole because of you guys

This is my first DIY project, which means that I have no clue

Yesterday I bought the nx3000d and it will be arriving next week

I will try running only one subwoofer and see if it is enough for my needs I don't have intention of building a second one, at least not now

The amplifier is 4ohms and the driver is 8ohms (PA460 VBSS project), and I don't know how to make it work

I will try bulind a shallow box, something like 60cm × 35cm x 115cm

Can I use those port tunnels firing down against the floor and the driver firing to my seat? (I am going to keep it behind me 1 foot away)

The full port is way too long, won't fit in a shallow one, that's why I am considering to place them at the bottom

I placed a Klipsch 12" behind my couch and it was amazing, unfortunately the subwoofer is too booming (distortion) and it was making a lot of port noise

Now I am here trying to build my own subwoofer and I hope it worth the money :)

Thank you guys
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
}
....
I will try bulind a shallow box, something like 60cm × 35cm x 115cm

Can I use those port tunnels firing down against the floor and the driver firing to my seat? (I am going to keep it behind me 1 foot away)

The full port is way too long, won't fit in a shallow one, that's why I am considering to place them at the bottom
....
The internal volume looks to be almost the same as the original design so you should be fine for the size.

You can fire the ports downward, you just need to ensure you have the box off the ground enough. I can't remember what the recommended height for clearance is is (6" maybe?) but quite a few users have build them with ports firing down.

Just have to make sure you leave enough room for everything to escape!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,079 Posts
iirc, over the years, for downward firing ported cabs,
minimum leg length was often cited as 3"
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ryan-x

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Hey all,

I have been following this thread for a long time as I am building my theater. I need a little help from you expert box designers.

My theater will have 2 standard VBSS up front tuned to 15 Hz (one precision port). In the rear (near field) I would like to put the subs in the corners of the room. This is where I need help. These boxes will need to be triangular in shape and also tuned to 15 Hz (assuming that is the correct route to take to have all 4 with the same tune).

Would someone(s) be willing to help design these corner boxes with correct tune? They can be up to 78 inches tall. Please see pic attached and let me know any questions you have.

Thank you!!

View attachment 3073158

With the two VBSS up front are you only installing 1 port? If you are not installing two for the ability to change the tune then why not go with the slot port 15hz tune? The designer says you will gain a few dbs. I think because lack of port compression vs the one precision port. Free output for less cost.

Win, win.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
With the two VBSS up front are you only installing 1 port? If you are not installing two for the ability to change the tune then why not go with the slot port 15hz tune? The designer says you will gain a few dbs. I think because lack of port compression vs the one precision port. Free output for less cost.

Win, win.
I am only planning on the 15hz tune, so that is great input. Thank you!

Now I just need to figure out the two rear corner VBSS and if those could also be built with the slot port.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,860 Posts
Hey all,

I have been following this thread for a long time as I am building my theater. I need a little help from you expert box designers.

My theater will have 2 standard VBSS up front tuned to 15 Hz (one precision port). In the rear (near field) I would like to put the subs in the corners of the room. This is where I need help. These boxes will need to be triangular in shape and also tuned to 15 Hz (assuming that is the correct route to take to have all 4 with the same tune).

Would someone(s) be willing to help design these corner boxes with correct tune? They can be up to 78 inches tall. Please see pic attached and let me know any questions you have.

Thank you!!

View attachment 3073158
First you have to decide what size the triangular cross section should be, you obviously have an idea as you drawn it up already. Then forget about a slot port, will be a pain to calculate for that shape. Use the original precision port as per the first post. Once you have that it is easy to calculate the area of the internal cross section and simply make it tall enough to match the volume of the original design taking any bracing into account.
 
  • Like
Reactions: alangsk

·
Registered
Joined
·
345 Posts
All the diagrams I’ve see have the baffle panel set up against the other edges. This slot port design has all the edges around the baffle panel.. Just worried about the edges not sealing well because I have to slide/squeeze the baffle into place. The glue might all get pushed off the edge. I guess I can always reach inside through the cutout and put a bead along the i side edges too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes run that bead on inside also...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
The internal volume looks to be almost the same as the original design so you should be fine for the size.

You can fire the ports downward, you just need to ensure you have the box off the ground enough. I can't remember what the recommended height for clearance is is (6" maybe?) but quite a few users have build them with ports firing down.

Just have to make sure you leave enough room for everything to escape!
Hi mixma, how are you? Again your are helping me, thank you

I wish o could keep the port and driver on the same side, but the tube need to be curved, and I couldn't find a complete port tube 17" like that.

Is that possible to hookup only one PA460 to the NX3000D? The driver is 8ohms and the amplifier is 4ohms :(

I believe that two VBSS would be the overkill... :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,185 Posts
Discussion Starter #3,039
The NX3000D can power anywhere from 1 to 8 drivers. Each channel supports down to a 2 ohm load (4 drivers connected in parallel per channel) but there are no issue using a load higher then 2 ohms on each channel.

With a single driver you just connect it to one of the amplifier channels.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,859 Posts
I believe that two VBSS would be the overkill... :)
Nah, the word "overkill" does not apply to AVSsers, especially DIYers. I am rocking 8 of them and they put a smile on my face every time I hear them. You might start with two but once you hear them you are gonna become addicted to the sound and pretty soon you will want 2 more.......and so on.:LOL: . At least you already have an Amp with the potential to add several more without additional cost---Drivers and MDF notwithstanding.
 
3021 - 3040 of 3075 Posts
Top