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Is there an Eminence driver that is similar to the pa380 / pa460 that I can use on VBSS?

Thanks
 

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Thank you!
is it roughly .89ms delay per foot?
I assume I run the 4 subs on A in parallel for a 2ohm load and the same with the 2 subs on B in parallel for a 4ohm load?

I guess I will have to buy a UMIK after I build the back bass as I had had no need to measure with my current 4 as I can't move them around or tweak.
Yeah the software should show distance in ms, feet and meters and allow you to enter the distance in any of the boxes, at least the inuke remote connect is like that.
 

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I just bought 2x PA380, could someone help me with the size of the enclosure please?

I am going with the slot port tuned around 22hz

Thanks
 

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Thank you @mtg90 for this awesome VBSS design and all that you do for the diy community! All your knowledge and help is greatly appreciated!

I finally received my NX3000D this past week and was able to get my 2 15hz slot port VBSS's up and running. Setup my UMIK-1 and REW and played with that for a few hours until I got mostly positive summation with the combined subs. Oddly shaped room that's open to everything combined with limited placement options didn't help but I got the in room response to +/- 3.5 db from 10 or 11hz to 120hz.

Loaded up War of the Worlds and Edge of Tomorrow and man do these things pump out some awesome bass! They play clean and effortlessly with no audible distortion and pressurize the room decently (nothing crazy like I'm sure a couple of full Marty's with UM18-22 would do). I was surprised 2 of them could pressurize over 4000 cu ft. at all. They shake all the doors in their jambs, light fixtures, stuff on the kitchen counter, etc. Except for the crazy bass heavy scenes like the pod emergence scene and the beginning of EOT the NX3000D would bounce between 1 and 2 green lights listening at a good volume.

During the pod emergence scene and listening quite loudly I was able to get the red limiter light to stay on for a solid 2-4 seconds before I turned it down and it flashed a bit before that. The 5th protection light on the amp never turned on. So hopefully I didn't damage the amp or subs. They all seem to working fine. Maybe someone here can chime in as to how long the limiter light can stay on before damaging something.

The sound signature of these VBSSs are the best sounding subs I've ever heard. They play both music and movies extraordinarily well! The PA woofer with high sensitivity does the job so nicely that I don't think I could be without 1 or 2 of these now that I've heard them. I'm hoping I can add a dual driver VBSS at some point in the future, but for right now 2 of these are all the bass I need 95% of the time. They're crazy good! I wasn't sure how much low end I would get with these VBSS's as the PA460-8 isn't a high excursion driver but they do quite well. I can only imagine what 6 or 8 of these things can do and really want to find out!

Thanks again for the design and to everyone here who has helped answer any questions that I've had!

I can also confirm that for the neutik NL4MPR, a 2" sawtooth or forstner bit can recess them perfectly along with a 15/16" bit for the through hole. I added some 1/16" thick foam weather stripping to the back and spray painted some #4 1/2" screws for them.

I also swapped the fan in the NX3000D as with a noctua NF-A8 PWM fan and it is way quieter. Worthwhile upgrade IMO. It doesn't move as much air but the amp was always cool to the touch so we'll see how it goes in the long-term. Worst case I'll try reversing the fan and I can always put the stock fan back in if needed as well. I just pulled the connector straight up and off the board, cut the 4 pin connector down to a 2 pin connector on the noctua and electrical taped the spare 2 wires. Plugged it in, added a bit of hot glue to the connector and put it all back together.
 

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I just bought 2x PA380, could someone help me with the size of the enclosure please?

I am going with the slot port tuned around 22hz

Thanks
I'd be interested in this too but in order not to derail this thread and to get more input on the matter at hand, you'd be better off starting your own dedicated thread towards this topic as it will not be a VBSS.
 

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I've got a few questions regarding the dual driver VBSS cab.

Is there any concern with having 2 PA460-8's that end up being on opposite ends of the tolerance spectrum from dayton? Is there anyway to test this? Would they be better off in there own cab and stacked on top of each other or am I just over thinking this? If there was a difference between individual drivers would it even be audible?

I like the idea of saving space and having no elbow in the 15hz slot port, although it might not make much of a difference. Plus they just look cool!

How much lining is needed if using a foam mattress topper? Back, top and bottom good enough? Or is it better to throw a pillow or 2 in there? I've read that pillows work well in cabs that have a dimension of 48" or more, not sure if that's true or not.

If doing 4 of the dual driver VBSS's in a rectangle room and each one in a corner, is it worth doing 2 nx3000d's so each dual cab is on it's own channel? Or just save the the money and put the 2 back ones on one channel and the 2 front ones on the other channel of one amplifier? Thanks.
 

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I've got a few questions regarding the dual driver VBSS cab.

Is there any concern with having 2 PA460-8's that end up being on opposite ends of the tolerance spectrum from dayton? Is there anyway to test this? Would they be better off in there own cab and stacked on top of each other or am I just over thinking this? If there was a difference between individual drivers would it even be audible?

I like the idea of saving space and having no elbow in the 15hz slot port, although it might not make much of a difference. Plus they just look cool!

How much lining is needed if using a foam mattress topper? Back, top and bottom good enough? Or is it better to throw a pillow or 2 in there? I've read that pillows work well in cabs that have a dimension of 48" or more, not sure if that's true or not.

If doing 4 of the dual driver VBSS's in a rectangle room and each one in a corner, is it worth doing 2 nx3000d's so each dual cab is on it's own channel? Or just save the the money and put the 2 back ones on one channel and the 2 front ones on the other channel of one amplifier? Thanks.
I don't think your first tolerance spectrum would do much or cause issues as long as both subs are the same make/model you are good.

I used 1" or 1.5" mattress topper in mine from Walmart, cheapest stuff they have. I did the entire top, the sides of the box but just the middle and along the back except where the ports are, so if you looked in the ports you would see black painted mdf and not foam. I did not put any on the bottom but I did put a large piece around the ports and under the bottom brace so it kind of touched the bottom on the left side of the bot went up and around the port, under the brace and wrapped around the top of the other port and down to the bottom

You can run all four (heck 8) from a single 3000D amp, no need for two. I have four up front and will be adding two more as rear near field at some point this year, just the one amp!
 

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I think I have decided to built 2 Slim VBSS.
1. I have been through this beast of a thread the last few days but could not find if the cut list and a pic of cuts on a 4x8 board were finalized? I could possibly fit the standard version just barely behind my screen wall but it would require side mounting the connections. It’s only 22” deep and I am planning on some Roxul Sound board for the front wall.
2. Also wondering is there a performance difference between the slot and port versions? Or is it just personal preference from a build standpoint?
I am sure I will have a million questions as I have never built a speaker before and I haven’t playet with room correction software either. I do have a Unik on the way.
3. Oh I am planning on powering with a Behringer NX3000D. How do you upload software and configure that thing? Do you need a windows PC as I only have a Mac.

Also looks like the PA460 drivers AND the NX3000D are back ordered an not available so yeah. Maybe I wont be building one of these. :(
 

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I think I have decided to built 2 Slim VBSS.
1. I have been through this beast of a thread the last few days but could not find if the cut list and a pic of cuts on a 4x8 board were finalized? I could possibly fit the standard version just barely behind my screen wall but it would require side mounting the connections. It’s only 22” deep and I am planning on some Roxul Sound board for the front wall.
2. Also wondering is there a performance difference between the slot and port versions? Or is it just personal preference from a build standpoint?
I am sure I will have a million questions as I have never built a speaker before and I haven’t playet with room correction software either. I do have a Unik on the way.
3. Oh I am planning on powering with a Behringer NX3000D. How do you upload software and configure that thing? Do you need a windows PC as I only have a Mac.

Also looks like the PA460 drivers AND the NX3000D are back ordered an not available so yeah. Maybe I wont be building one of these. :(
This is a cultist that @DavidinGA used for his slim cab VBSS's. I entered it into a cultist optimizer for you. I believe this is for a 20hz tune.

Little to no difference between round pre-made ports and a slot port. Slot port is a bit harder to build (still very easy) but cheaper. Or pick whichever you like the look of better. Unless you plan on using the 15hz tune then building the 1" tall 15hz slot port, you reduce port compression compared to running one round port so you will get a bit more output at and around port tuning (15hz).

I should add that using the round ports are designed for the regular VBSS as it uses the distance between the ports and back wall to make the tune work. So if going with the slim VBSS you really should use the slot port.

Download the NX edit software and take the file from the first post with the tune you built, plug in your amp and click store. It's that easy.
 

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i had been study the enclosure and try to do on WInisd , it just no confidence that am i did right or wrong , or shall i just copy @mtg90 box design and directly apply 2 unit on my theater room ?

my objective is tune the subwoofer in 20hz , 100% movie , looking on chest punching
 

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i had been study the enclosure and try to do on WInisd , it just no confidence that am i did right or wrong , or shall i just copy @mtg90 box design and directly apply 2 unit on my theater room ?

my objective is tune the subwoofer in 20hz , 100% movie , looking on chest punching
Just use the existing enclosure with the 20hz tune. Matt did a fantastic job on these and with the DSP settings, it's almost plug and play. I think you'll be very happy with a pair of these VBSS's!
 

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Thank you @mtg90 for this awesome VBSS design and all that you do for the diy community! All your knowledge and help is greatly appreciated!

I finally received my NX3000D this past week and was able to get my 2 15hz slot port VBSS's up and running. Setup my UMIK-1 and REW and played with that for a few hours until I got mostly positive summation with the combined subs. Oddly shaped room that's open to everything combined with limited placement options didn't help but I got the in room response to +/- 3.5 db from 10 or 11hz to 120hz.

Loaded up War of the Worlds and Edge of Tomorrow and man do these things pump out some awesome bass! They play clean and effortlessly with no audible distortion and pressurize the room decently (nothing crazy like I'm sure a couple of full Marty's with UM18-22 would do). I was surprised 2 of them could pressurize over 4000 cu ft. at all. They shake all the doors in their jambs, light fixtures, stuff on the kitchen counter, etc. Except for the crazy bass heavy scenes like the pod emergence scene and the beginning of EOT the NX3000D would bounce between 1 and 2 green lights listening at a good volume.

During the pod emergence scene and listening quite loudly I was able to get the red limiter light to stay on for a solid 2-4 seconds before I turned it down and it flashed a bit before that. The 5th protection light on the amp never turned on. So hopefully I didn't damage the amp or subs. They all seem to working fine. Maybe someone here can chime in as to how long the limiter light can stay on before damaging something.

The sound signature of these VBSSs are the best sounding subs I've ever heard. They play both music and movies extraordinarily well! The PA woofer with high sensitivity does the job so nicely that I don't think I could be without 1 or 2 of these now that I've heard them. I'm hoping I can add a dual driver VBSS at some point in the future, but for right now 2 of these are all the bass I need 95% of the time. They're crazy good! I wasn't sure how much low end I would get with these VBSS's as the PA460-8 isn't a high excursion driver but they do quite well. I can only imagine what 6 or 8 of these things can do and really want to find out!

Thanks again for the design and to everyone here who has helped answer any questions that I've had!

I can also confirm that for the neutik NL4MPR, a 2" sawtooth or forstner bit can recess them perfectly along with a 15/16" bit for the through hole. I added some 1/16" thick foam weather stripping to the back and spray painted some #4 1/2" screws for them.

I also swapped the fan in the NX3000D as with a noctua NF-A8 PWM fan and it is way quieter. Worthwhile upgrade IMO. It doesn't move as much air but the amp was always cool to the touch so we'll see how it goes in the long-term. Worst case I'll try reversing the fan and I can always put the stock fan back in if needed as well. I just pulled the connector straight up and off the board, cut the 4 pin connector down to a 2 pin connector on the noctua and electrical taped the spare 2 wires. Plugged it in, added a bit of hot glue to the connector and put it all back together.
so you have full Marty's with UM18-22 x2 dual or just single + VBBS PA460-8 x2 dual or just single ?
 

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For the slot ported design, does it matter where you mount the driver on the baffle so long as it is centered horizontally?

Also, goodness that nx3000d fan really is loud.
 

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For the slot ported design, does it matter where you mount the driver on the baffle so long as it is centered horizontally?

Also, goodness that nx3000d fan really is loud.
I was told that it won't make a difference where you mount it. I centered mine between the top of the slot port and top of box.

The Noctua NF-A8 PWM is the fan to get from my research. It is very quiet and the swap took all of 5 minutes. Airflow is still good but not quite as good as the stock fan.
 

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I was told that it won't make a difference where you mount it. I centered mine between the top of the slot port and top of box.

The Noctua NF-A8 PWM is the fan to get from my research. It is very quiet and the swap took all of 5 minutes. Airflow is still good but not quite as good as the stock fan.
Just curious from your research if you found that fan was for the 3000 only or the 6000 as well? Think I just bought a used iNuke6000DSP so a fan mod is something I should look at right away

EDIT: I see a bunch of posts of people using the NF-A8 FLX on the iNukes. Not sure quite why one vs the other model
 
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