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the lowend appears to be a little higher on the infinity and the upper end would be a little higher on the pa380.
Are you referring to output or extension? Let me ask you this; let's say that you are trying to decide between the 1260 and the PA380 and that you have up to 10cu/ft per driver for potential enclosures. Would the PA380 be superior? Or would the little Infinity stay neck and neck?
 

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Are you referring to output or extension? Let me ask you this; let's say that you are trying to decide between the 1260 and the PA380 and that you have up to 10cu/ft per driver for potential enclosures. Would the PA380 be superior? Or would the little Infinity stay neck and neck?

neither driver needs 10 cubic feet. that would be just wasting space. I was referring to output. you will have some good mains with the 2226, so your midbass is probably covered ok. unless you are thinking about a whole stack of drivers, I'd look to something that is more capable on the low end. perhaps 460ho or even um18. either of those can work well in a ported cab that is about 10 cubic feet--all in.
 

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One could get good results with 3 Infinities in 10 CF instead of one 18. Or maybe 2 in a quasi-LLT. More expensive than the PA460 though, which sort of brings you back to where this thread begins.
 

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neither driver needs 10 cubic feet. that would be just wasting space. I was referring to output. you will have some good mains with the 2226, so your midbass is probably covered ok. unless you are thinking about a whole stack of drivers, I'd look to something that is more capable on the low end. perhaps 460ho or even um18. either of those can work well in a ported cab that is about 10 cubic feet--all in.
Basically what I was trying to ascertain, was, let's say you have all the space necessary for any size enclosure, and that you are trying to find the best bang for your buck subwoofer, with minimal restrictions on size and or placement. (This is just all hypothetical of course) let's say that you have a room that is 16ft by 18ft and that you want to build something that can play reference or close to it. Let's also assume that money is tight, and that our hypothetical friend has an existing iNuke3000dsp and a budget of $300 to $400 for drivers. Would he be best served buying some of the V.B.S.S. Dayton PA460's or the PA380's, or let's also throw in the Infinity 1260. How exactly do these three subs differ from each other?' My primary concern/questions are:

(All of the below assumes that drivers are optimized in a potted enclose designed for Maximum output from 20hz on up)

1. Which has more output between 20hz and 80hz
2. Which has has a better measured response?
3. How much extension can be expected from these budget based drivers?
 

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Basically what I was trying to ascertain, was, let's say you have all the space necessary for any size enclosure, and that you are trying to find the best bang for your buck subwoofer, with minimal restrictions on size and or placement. (This is just all hypothetical of course) let's say that you have a room that is 16ft by 18ft and that you want to build something that can play reference or close to it. Let's also assume that money is tight, and that our hypothetical friend has an existing iNuke3000dsp and a budget of $300 to $400 for drivers. Would he be best served buying some of the V.B.S.S. Dayton PA460's or the PA380's, or let's also throw in the Infinity 1260. How exactly do these three subs differ from each other?' My primary concern/questions are:

(All of the below assumes that drivers are optimized in a potted enclose designed for Maximum output from 20hz on up)

1. Which has more output between 20hz and 80hz
2. Which has has a better measured response?
3. How much extension can be expected from these budget based drivers?

it kind of depends what values you want to put in for xmax, but with reasonable assumptions 9mm and 16mm and 500 watts into each (might be a little high power for the infinity but it is tough to say and 16mm might be a little low for that driver), this is roughly the max ouput. as you can see where the 18" high efficiency sub really does well is on the upper end of the bass, but even on the low end it appears to have the edge, roughly. the 18 is also quite a bit more efficient so it gets to any given spl with less power.


this is just one sub with no room gain.


extension with ported cabs depends on where you choose to tune them. these are 18hz.


 

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Thank you for this thread. I read your description and i'm interesting to build this 'little' box myself.

I read a lot of technical specs but how does the sub sounds in reality ?

I own a sub and the driver is very hard but fast but not very deep. So i'm a little concerned the driver is to slow and maybe the sound is spongy.

So please try to describe how does the sub sounds?
 

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This is exactly the type of simple ported sub plan I have been looking for. I will probably knock out the case tomorrow. Is there a parts list for the bit parts? For example you mention a full-length port. Where exactly did you get these?

Also is a Bash 300 plate amp enough to drive one of these? Thanks so much!
 

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This is exactly the type of simple ported sub plan I have been looking for. I will probably knock out the case tomorrow. Is there a parts list for the bit parts? For example you mention a full-length port. Where exactly did you get these?

Also is a Bash 300 plate amp enough to drive one of these? Thanks so much!

Get the flared ports from partsexpress for the amp I like inukes but if you want to use the bash amp it's at partsexpress to.
 

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The bash will work fine the iNuke would provide better limits and DSP but power wise it will be good to go. See my build thread...
 

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The bash will work fine the iNuke would provide better limits and DSP but power wise it will be good to go. See my build thread...
This is what the dsp file looks like for the 20hz setting.



Some boost at 20hz, hpf at 20hz and I'm not sure what the DEQ is doing. The 15hz dsp file is more aggressive. If you are going to use the bash, probably best to stick with the 20hz port tuning.
 
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