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Ok, slot port clarification...

I've seen at least three different slot port dimensions and I'm curious if all three are correct and if all three will yield the 20hz tuning with both open and 15hz tuning with one plugged.

1. "If a slot port is desired you can build it with a full width slot port that is 1.5" high x 28" long with a brace running down the middle of the port, This will allow for both the 20hz tune with both halves of the port open or the 15hz tune if one of the halves was closed off."

2. "If you wanted to make the VBSS enclosure slot ported you can do so with a slot port that is full width, 22" with a brace down the middle and 1.25" high.

I don't have a cultist for the slot port but you just need three extra pieces to make it. A 22" wide x 17" long piece for the top of the slot port. An 18.5" x 1.25" piece for the brace that runs down the middle of the slot port and a 1" x 22" piece to glue onto the top of the inner end of the slot port creating a short 90 degree elbow at the back."

3. "Otherwise you could do a full width slot port that is 1.5" high, also 17" long from the baffle face (should be 2.25" clearance behind the port to the rear wall).

A 1 - 1.5" 90 degree lip should be added to the internal exit of the slot port to reduce turbulence and chuffing. Round overs should also be used on the port internal exit. Similar to what I did on this design at the port exit"

Thanks guys, looking forward to getting started on these after I'm done working these 12 hour shifts!
 

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Discussion Starter #1,002
The 1.5" high slot port will give the best performance of those three as it has the largest area and therefore lowest port velocity and compression.
 

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For the 15hz hz only slot port it lists a 22"x1" opening 32" long.
Would it be ok to make the slot 22.5" wide with a .5" brace int the center of the slot?

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk
 

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Ok. So the original dimensions won't fit in the area I have to work with. So this is what I am thinking about doing.

Original Box volume= 12210²"
Original port displacement = 440²"
New Slot port displacement= 1260²"
(Slot 22.5 x 1"x 32" long with a .5" brace in the center)
New box volume 13030²"
New internal dimensions
44.5"x22.5"x13"
New external dimensions
46"x24"x15"
Does this look acceptable?
 

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Off current topic but related for anyone who used duct/electrical tape for securing the Precision Port pieces together. My VBSS's are in my garage and I noticed the front portion of the port was coming apart and the rear part of the port starting to sag. Likely from heat and stuffing the port for the 15 HZ tune. I had to pull the ports out and super glue the front part of the port to ensure they didn't come apart.

That is all.
 

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Off current topic but related for anyone who used duct/electrical tape for securing the Precision Port pieces together. My VBSS's are in my garage and I noticed the front portion of the port was coming apart and the rear part of the port starting to sag. Likely from heat and stuffing the port for the 15 HZ tune. I had to pull the ports out and super glue the front part of the port to ensure they didn't come apart.

That is all.
Two days ago, I noticed the exact same thing. The VBSS was rattling - electric tape on ports sagged/loosened, used ABS glue to cement the pipes. Easy and worked perfectly, don't recommend using tape for future on ports.
 

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Quality duct tape (fibrous not electrical) will last so I'd recommend it for even permanent fixings. I've only ever seen it fail or break down when exposed to sun due to extreme heat and UV.
In saying that even a hot glue gun works but squeeze the hot glue onto the pipe then push the flare on, if you simply fit the flare then goop over the join it tends to not stick due to a lot of low quality (low heat) EVA glue sticks!
 

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I had both duct tape and electrical tape fail. Not sure on the quality of the duct tape but was the heavier duty Duct Tape brand. I suppose I could/should have done multiple layers. Also could have been resolved by a port support to avoid sagging.
 

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I was finally able to get some work done on my VBSS set up. I am doing 8 of the slot port design that LTD02 posted details on back on page 27

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/2226642-v-b-s-s-diy-subwoofer-design-thread-27.html#post56120796

There is still a lot of work to be done as I need to add bracing, cut holes in the baffles and insert them, finish with most likely duratex. As I type that out I realize how much work is still left to be done!

Here are few pics of the process

my bro in law helping me rip the panels to a more manageable size

progress after lots of passes on the table saw

It was a bit of a challenge to keep the panels separated

Packed up and making the hour drive back to my house

Staged in the basement next to all of the PA460's and other gear I'm accumulating

Box number 1 was a learning experience as I tried to figure out the best way to glue these up and the order to do everything. I ended up using lots of Titebond III and a good number of brad nails

A more refined process allowed me to do more with less waiting for the glue to cure

All 8 of the carcasses done and awaiting the next steps. If you're wondering why I painted the top of two of the slot ports black...the answer is...it was late, I had taken cough medicine...oh and I'm a moron. Fortunately no one will ever see them but it does make it a little harder to paint the inside of the slot port.

One question I do have for everyone. I am going to have 4 of these in the front of my room and another 4 in the back. They are going to be essentially all co-located and I will need to daisy chain all of them back to the inuke 3000dsp that will be in the front of the room. So I thought a clean and easy way to do that would be to use the following.
https://www.parts-express.com/penn-elcom-m1504-abs-dish-two-neutrik-d-or-nl4mp--262-348

With two of these installed in each

https://www.parts-express.com/neutrik-nl4mp-speakon-connector-4-pole-panel-mount--092-052

I will need to wire the drivers this way
https://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/4SVC_8-ohm_mono.jpg

So will the method I'm thinking provide the result I'm after?

Thanks in advance for your input
 

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Holy hell. 8? I was wondering how many I was going to need for my 6000 ft^3 room and I'm happy with 2. You're going to move the earthquake meters with those.
 

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I was finally able to get some work done on my VBSS set up....

...I will need to daisy chain all of them back to the inuke 3000dsp that will be in the front of the room...


...I will need to wire the drivers this way
https://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/4SVC_8-ohm_mono.jpg

So will the method I'm thinking provide the result I'm after?

Thanks in advance for your input

Are you running all four off of one channel of the iNuke? It's not rated for two ohms in bridged mode.
 

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Are you running all four off of one channel of the iNuke? It's not rated for two ohms in bridged mode.
Wired 2ohm to Channel A (4x front subs in Parallel) will work, yes. Same for the rear 4 subs.

I can't see his pictures. Somehow I missed the part about 8 drivers. Thanks.
 

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I only see one picture (from a previous quoted post) with 4 subs going to a car amp wired in 2ohm so just assumed he's using 4 per channel. He wrote this below also but I figured the picture plus 4 subs front and 4 at the back of the room he was just going to do it that way!

"One question I do have for everyone. I am going to have 4 of these in the front of my room and another 4 in the back. They are going to be essentially all co-located and I will need to daisy chain all of them back to the inuke 3000dsp that will be in the front of the room."

If he bridges them all then the amp will probably just throw a hissy fit and shut down!? Lol

I'm using Tapatalk on a phone and it can be painful so that's the reason why I think a lot of people just ask the same questions over and over on forums!
 

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I only see one picture (from a previous quoted post) with 4 subs going to a car amp wired in 2ohm so just assumed he's using 4 per channel. He wrote this below also but I figured the picture plus 4 subs front and 4 at the back of the room he was just going to do it that way!

"One question I do have for everyone. I am going to have 4 of these in the front of my room and another 4 in the back. They are going to be essentially all co-located and I will need to daisy chain all of them back to the inuke 3000dsp that will be in the front of the room."

If he bridges them all then the amp will probably just throw a hissy fit and shut down!? Lol

I'm using Tapatalk on a phone and it can be painful so that's the reason why I think a lot of people just ask the same questions over and over on forums!

Agreed. Like I said, I totally missed the [8 total] comments.
 

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Not sure what happened with the pics...I thought I knew what I was doing using imagur as the host. I will see if I can figure out a different way to post the pics and edit that post.

Augerhandle....yes MTG90 in the initial post did mention that you can run 4 subs per channel wired in parallel.

I was anticipating it being overkill which is the motto of the DIY forum on this board.

The room is 14'6" wide by 18' long with 8' ceilings however, it's in the basement and opens up to a stairway to the rest of the house.
 

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I've followed most of the thread, can't wait to build my pair before the year's end. Does anyone have an idiot-proof checklist of supplies for building one? I'm mainly concerned about the wiring/cables/connectors needed to supply audio/power from my Denon 4300 -> iNuke1000Dsp -> VBSS.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
 

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I've followed most of the thread, can't wait to build my pair before the year's end. Does anyone have an idiot-proof checklist of supplies for building one? I'm mainly concerned about the wiring/cables/connectors needed to supply audio/power from my Denon 4300 -> iNuke1000Dsp -> VBSS.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
I'll check and see what items I ended up buying or using. But just a heads up, no matter how prepared I thought I was, I ended up going to the local HD/other stores several extra times. I found out you don't truly know what you need (to build, fix, etc) until you actually get building...but that's also part of the fun of it, figuring things out and learning in the process!
 
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