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Ftoast, thank you very much!
The dimensions are just perfect!


One more question though, can I put a 2nd 1/2" baffle in front in order the recess the driver?
This of course will lengthen the port by 1/2" - should I decrease the length in the back by 1/2"?

As regard to the tuning frequency, I will do 15Hz, but probably keep the possibility open to be able to tune higher by stuffing one of the ports, if there are no pros to have it fixed at 15Hz?


Thanks again!
 

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But .... I have a question: if using the rail slotted version, is there a way to identically (~) close one to tune lower (higher ?) the box? Or, with the slotted version we lose the possibility to tune ?
Regards
Alessandro
 

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But .... I have a question: if using the rail slotted version, is there a way to identically (~) close one to tune lower (higher ?) the box? Or, with the slotted version we lose the possibility to tune ?

Regards

Alessandro
You can tune it exactly the same way as the original version.
 

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If you're keeping the same volume while decreasing depth and increasing width you'll want to aim for outside dimensions of 31.5"-tall, 28"-wide and 17" deep...with the slot port still full width but its height shortened to 1.25" and the same 28" length.

If you want just the 15hz port tuning (instead of both 15 and higher with one or both sides open) then the height should be shorter at 53/64" (or 0.83") and the port length longer at 32".
This one turned out really well and four of them fit my space just perfect. I added a 1/2" front baffle for recessed driver mount (so 17.5" depth now) by keeping the same volume and the port length at 28" by 1.25" height.

Thanks very much.
 

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Oh man, someone in my exact same situation. I bought an inuke 6000 with the intention of having 1 or 2 VBSSs and a UM18. I have a very large open basement for the HT. I built 1 VBSS and placed it using the sub crawl method then EQd it. The output was really impressive. However the difference between my 4 seating positions was very noticeable. So I built a second VBSS. I didn't even put them on separate channels, meaning that they are EQd identically. The difference in seating positions has basically vanished. Most importantly, the pair is so loud and it hits so low that I don't believe I need the UM18 at all. Every room is different but I have a huge room so I would image that a normal HT would be more than OK for most folks at only 2 VBSS. For me, the next step is clearly not a UM18 or more VBSSs but instead it's EQing both subs individually for even flatter response. And in terms of money, it's room acoustic treatment that's the next best step, not another sub, especially not a UM18.
The 460 might not be designed to hit low but that's the beauty of the VBSS design. cheap, loud, low.
I did the same thing but I built 2 expecting to build at least 2 more (since they are so cheap). After getting them up and running there is NO WAY the wife would let me have more output in this room than the pair has :)
 

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I did the same thing but I built 2 expecting to build at least 2 more (since they are so cheap). After getting them up and running there is NO WAY the wife would let me have more output in this room than the pair has :)
Isn't that one can go lower in frequency and get flatter response with more of them, not necessary higher *overall* volume?
 

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Isn't that one can go lower in frequency and get flatter response with more of them, not necessary higher *overall* volume?
No, the overall output across the entire range increases. This is why having 30 subs barely being pushed is better than one pushing too hard and distorting. Also this is why it's easier to create a ton of headroom then chop whatever peaks you have off to have a flat response.
 

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I was able to get the bracing figured out (thanks to LTD02) and cut most of the baffles the circle jig my neighbor had and his router proved to make the process very easy...two of them ended up being learning experiences and will have to be redone! But it went together really well...my cuts proved to be pretty dead on so things were very snug when assembling them, just added some Titebond III. Here are few pics of the progress. My little girls thought they were awesome! I still have 2 more to finish up the bracing and baffles on. Then it's on to adding the connections and ultimately finishing them off with duratex.

Doing 8 of these things takes longer than I anticipated...though I do have 4 little kids that like to take up a good amount of my free time. :)

I am still very much enjoying the process!

I very much regretted doing all those baffles in my garage as it took me about 2 hours to clean all that mdf dust up and clean off everything it coated...lesson learned.
 

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Finally got my VBSS done! Used them unfinished for about 6 months and decided weather was nice, it was time to finish them. Turned them into concert subs basically. Tuned to 30hz-ish. Duratexed and grilled. Loved putting this all together. Makes a pretty kickass 2.2 stereo system in my basement. I learned from slots on bottom that spiders loved to make their home in them so now they are slots on top. Hopefully they stay out now!



 

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Finally got my VBSS done! Used them unfinished for about 6 months and decided weather was nice, it was time to finish them. Turned them into concert subs basically. Tuned to 30hz-ish. Duratexed and grilled. Loved putting this all together. Makes a pretty kickass 2.2 stereo system in my basement. I learned from slots on bottom that spiders loved to make their home in them so now they are slots on top. Hopefully they stay out now!



How do you like those monoprice PA speakers?
 

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Two questions -

I’m building two of these- I already have a 1000DSP- I understand you run in bridges parallel, And shut off “power” limiter or in other words run at full power capable?

And build says Slot port 22” W 1” H 32” L I assume that’s front, but what about side slot port? I’m chasing the 15hz tune.
 

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Two questions -

I’m building two of these- I already have a 1000DSP- I understand you run in bridges parallel, And shut off “power” limiter or in other words run at full power capable?

And build says Slot port 22” W 1” H 32” L I assume that’s front, but what about side slot port? I’m chasing the 15hz tune.
Unsure about the side slot port but the 1000DSP should be limited in bridge mode to 71.5 volts if I recall correctly.
 

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How do you like those monoprice PA speakers?
I'm actually liking them a lot so far. I've only had them for a week but so far they are promising. I had an older set of Peaveys and they sound as good if not a hair better. I think in total they cost me about $140 a piece with shipping since they are only $99 right now.
 

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Hi guys,

I was thinking whether it would be possible to build an angled version of the PA460-8 VBSS and put in the back of my HT room below the speakers in that triangular space, what do you think?
 

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O wow I thought it be under powered then pushing two of these.
In bridged mode I believe they get about 320 watts each (based on dyno tests) which is enough to drive them to excursion max. I've read that the 3000DSP gets a little more out of them but I am not sure in what way. I do know that in my ~1500 cft garage they are capable of considerably more volume then I can stand. Movies like BR 2049 & Fury Road are quite immersive :)
 

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Hi guys,

I was thinking whether it would be possible to build an angled version of the PA460-8 VBSS and put in the back of my HT room below the speakers in that triangular space, what do you think?
As long as the internal volume is the same, no reason you can't!
 

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Angled Version of VBSS

As long as the internal volume is the same, no reason you can't!
I should probably use the original plastic ports, as I can image a slot version would be difficult to calculate in this case?
 
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