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Discussion Starter #61
Well I tried dying the white speaker cloth a dark brown and it ended up being a weird gray/brown so that idea is a bust. I did some searching and found a place called acoustimac that sells several types of AT material. Other people have posted about this place here on the forums. I ordered samples of the dark brown colors for three of their products. Hopefully one will work out. If not they also sell custom AT material that you upload an image and they print it on the material. I will paint the columns, take a photo of the finished result and have them print some material with that image. I am thinking that should match the walls perfectly.

While I am waiting on the samples I have been messing around with the Harmony Hub, Hub Extender & Echo Dot. The lights in the theater are z-wave controlled. I set up an activity called "theater lights" in the Hub and now I can tell Alexa to "turn on/off theater lights". Kinda cool. One bad thing is everything must start with "turn on/off" So to watch a movie I have to say "turn on movie" Not the end of the world but ones natural inclination is to say "watch a movie". Perhaps someday Alexa or competitor will be more flexible.
 

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I went with acoustimac material and couldn't be happier ad they have great customer service which is always a bonus. There dmd material is very easy on work with. My lights are grafikeye controlled but guessing the harmony hub for my elite would program the same. How hard was it to integrate the echo with the hub
 

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Discussion Starter #63 (Edited)
I received a sample pack from Acoustimac yesterday. The DMD & Executive Collection appear to be acoustically transparent. The Castielle Suede however does not. Almost no light gets through it and it is about impossible to blow through. The Executive Collection material has no stretch to it and the DMD material stretches in one direction and not the other. Using the unscientific blow test, it is easier to blow through the DMD material. Unfortunately they do not have a sample of the material they use for their ARTSKIN product. These are just my observations on the materials, not trying to say anything is good or bad.


hd0823, I have no experience with grafikeye to control the lights. However if you can use the Harmony Hub / remote to control them now you could use the Echo to control them. Once you have the Echo set up you just need to load the Harmony Skill. Once loaded it will scan for Harmony devices and find your Hub and load all the activities you have configured in the Hub. Then just tell Alexa "turn on/off......(your activity)
 

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Discussion Starter #64
I am afraid I have fallen victim to having my theater being functional but not done. I am just not as motivated as I was before. I did manage to make a little more progress. I finished the covers for the fiber optic light sources. I kept the pieces of drywall I cut out and glued them to a piece of thin sheet metal. The metal is is for HVAC duct. I screwed six magnets in the wall that holds the piece in place. I also decided not to give up on texturing the columns. I have been trying every type of roller I could find and ended up using a sponge roller that is sold at Wally World. I thinned down drywall compound until it was the consistency of pancake batter and used the roller to put it on. Having the texture will hide the light source covers much better I believe. I hope to get all the columns textured tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Finally have the columns painted. This has been a looooooooong process figuring out what color(s) looked best. I have about 20 small sample size bottles of paint & four gallon jugs of specialty paint The guy at Menards paint desk is probably happy to seem me done as well. With just the theater lights the paint looks darker than in the photo.
 

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Unboxed and placed all the speakers & components. Finished up some wiring. Attempted to install the projector but the QualGear projector mount did not exactly cooperate. It had plenty of good reviews and seems solid enough but the spacers do not fit the short arms and they only have long screws to fasten to the projector. Much too long for the Panasonic. Also kind of dumb, the unit is black, anything pre-assembled used black bolts but the arm extensions have silver bolts.
Looks great. What equipment rack is that? It doesnt look too pricey.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
I could use some help. I need some sort of special hinge to accomplish what I want. The theater door is a double door, each side built up. The attached pdf shows the view from the top. Anyone have any ideas? The only thing I can think of is some sort of slide/hinge where the door moves straight out about 3" before it starts to swing open.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
The first star field panel is complete!! Only 24 more to go. I started with a 1" ridged foam insulation board, painted it flat black and covered it with speaker cloth using 3M spray adhesive. I tried a few things to get the fiber optic strands through the panel until I came up with the idea of using very small brass tubing. Our local Ace Hardware had this. I used two sized, 1/16" and 3/32". I cut about a 6" piece, used a hammer to smash the end and then filed off the smashed end to a very sharp point. Just using my hand to spin the "needle" I was able to push this through the board and the speaker cloth, not getting in a big hurry. Once through I inserted the fiber optic strand in the back of the tube and pulled it through the board/cloth. I used Scotch tape to bend the strand over and hold it in place and then used low temp hot glue to permanently hold the strands. Next I glued 1/2" thick foam board pieces on the back of the panel to provide some space and then applied the "instant grab" construction adhesive to glue it to the ceiling.

The plan is to use 1" ridged duct board in the places I need sound absorption. The local vendor where I can buy it claims this is what the big theater chain here in town used.


A question on the 3M spray adhesive if anyone knows - the stuff works great but when applying it to the board it would "spit" big drops of the glue. These soaked through the speaker cloth and if you are close enough you can see the spot. This happened with two brand new cans. Is there any tricks to keep that from happening? Another brand of spray adhesive I should use?
 

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Door feedback

I could use some help. I need some sort of special hinge to accomplish what I want. The theater door is a double door, each side built up. The attached pdf shows the view from the top. Anyone have any ideas? The only thing I can think of is some sort of slide/hinge where the door moves straight out about 3" before it starts to swing open.
I have a double door situation as you have, but as I am early in the process, I plan on removing the double door and adding a single heavy door.

For yours however, a couple of things you may want to read up on.
@BIGmouthinDC is pretty good at doors, and has provided several good recommendations over the years. I would search on his builds and posts and garner some info from those and see what you can engineer.

I came across several additional posts that have inspired some thinking and will be using for own my build. @hifiaudio2 put together a massive door that you may want to consider build elements into yours. It may help you come up with a solution.


Definitely you are going to have to think about swing clearance. I wasn't sure which way exactly your doors swing, but i assume upwards, based on the framing of the door.

Image uploading. Refresh page to view
 

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The first star field panel is complete!! Only 24 more to go. I started with a 1" ridged foam insulation board, painted it flat black and covered it with speaker cloth using 3M spray adhesive. I tried a few things to get the fiber optic strands through the panel until I came up with the idea of using very small brass tubing. Our local Ace Hardware had this. I used two sized, 1/16" and 3/32". I cut about a 6" piece, used a hammer to smash the end and then filed off the smashed end to a very sharp point. Just using my hand to spin the "needle" I was able to push this through the board and the speaker cloth, not getting in a big hurry. Once through I inserted the fiber optic strand in the back of the tube and pulled it through the board/cloth. I used Scotch tape to bend the strand over and hold it in place and then used low temp hot glue to permanently hold the strands. Next I glued 1/2" thick foam board pieces on the back of the panel to provide some space and then applied the "instant grab" construction adhesive to glue it to the ceiling.

The plan is to use 1" ridged duct board in the places I need sound absorption. The local vendor where I can buy it claims this is what the big theater chain here in town used.


A question on the 3M spray adhesive if anyone knows - the stuff works great but when applying it to the board it would "spit" big drops of the glue. These soaked through the speaker cloth and if you are close enough you can see the spot. This happened with two brand new cans. Is there any tricks to keep that from happening? Another brand of spray adhesive I should use?
Hey great minds think alike....I was going to be using the pink board/ speaker cloth trick as well.( Not into heavy drywall/ drywall lifting devices.) So...What I was going to do was just wrap my board with the speaker cloth and put adhesive (3M) on the back side edge of the panels ( like your second pic) . I'm not sure if you will have sag or not on the star side when done. I believe with a bit of stretching, you may not need to apply spray on the star side. I'm weeks away from trying this though. I'm also going to just dollop/ dab my stars on with phosphorus paint, hoping this will sort of glue through the speaker cloth onto the pink board. Hope this gives you another "approach". Maybe after trimming your fiber, you can do a dab of glue to hold the fiber AND speaker cloth in place... gravity is the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
sirjaymz, the doors open "up" in reference to the drawing. Or away from the studs. I have been toying with the idea of a single door but the dang thing is heavy and it really won't solve my problem either. The reason for the different layers is the foam board and spacer pieces are needed for the fiber optic stars. I was hoping to extend that part past the edge of the doors to block any light that might be entering. However I can make the foam boards the same width as the doors. I could also use an offset hinge but then I would have hinges exposed, which again is probably not the end of the world but if I can get away with a hidden hinge solution it would be preferable.

69glamboy, the thought crossed my mind to not put any clue on the cloth side of the board but there is no way I could stretch it tight enough not to sag. If you are painting on your stars and it can get through the material to stick to the board that would probably work great.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Here is the first two panels attached to the ceiling. I believe I made a bad choice in putting the lights in the ceiling and then trying to cut a hole in the star field panel. The speaker cloth does not stretch very well so the openings are not very clean. Plus I can't seem to get the hole exactly centered over the light. I believe for the rest I am going to relocate the light into the star field panel. It is just spring loaded and weighs nothing so should not be a problem. I will then have to patch these first two somehow.

I also found what I hope is the perfect DMX controller, the Chromateq DIN 1024. It can be controlled via several options including RS232 and via an IR remote if the optional IR Kit is ordered. I am thinking I can teach my Harmony Hub these commands and then have the ability to control all the DMX lights via the Harmony remote. Plus if/when I get my HomeSeer automation controller set up, it can send out serial commands.

Here is a link to the DMX stuff: http://www.chromateq.com/45-chromateq-packages.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #75
I installed the first panels on the ceiling using hvac duct board and had a few issues. Perhaps my trials will help someone down the road.

I glued the small foam board blocks to the back side, the aluminum foil side, using Loctite Power Grab adhesive as I did for the foam board panels. While I was gluing the small foam blocks to the back I ran out of the Power Grab glue and when I went to get some more the Heavy Duty Power Grab was on sale so I got that. To install the panels to the ceiling I just pressed the foam board panels on the ceiling and they stuck/stayed just fine. Apparently the duct board is too heavy for that. After a few seconds the panel fell off the ceiling. Also the Heave Duty is a bit thicker than the "normal" Power Grab and I noticed that I could not press the glue very well. So I cleaned everything up and then used Liquid Nails to glue the panel to the ceiling. I used some bracing to hold it in place over night. I removed the bracing and sometime within the next 10 minuets the panel again fell off the ceiling. About 1/3rd of the 1/2" blocks stayed stuck to the ceiling, ie the Power Grab did not hold the foam blocks to the foil back on the duct board. So back to the hardware store and I bought Gorilla Glue Construction Adhesive. Pricey stuff but claims it will stick anything to anything. I did some testing and it defiantly sticks to the foil back of the duct board. I glued the panel to the ceiling and used bracing over night. This panel has stayed for a few days now anyway.
 

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Here is the first two panels attached to the ceiling. I believe I made a bad choice in putting the lights in the ceiling and then trying to cut a hole in the star field panel. The speaker cloth does not stretch very well so the openings are not very clean. Plus I can't seem to get the hole exactly centered over the light. I believe for the rest I am going to relocate the light into the star field panel. It is just spring loaded and weighs nothing so should not be a problem. I will then have to patch these first two somehow.

I also found what I hope is the perfect DMX controller, the Chromateq DIN 1024. It can be controlled via several options including RS232 and via an IR remote if the optional IR Kit is ordered. I am thinking I can teach my Harmony Hub these commands and then have the ability to control all the DMX lights via the Harmony remote. Plus if/when I get my HomeSeer automation controller set up, it can send out serial commands.

Here is a link to the DMX stuff: http://www.chromateq.com/45-chromateq-packages.htm
Looks like a great solution to controlling the DMX. I am looking for a DMX controller for my star ceiling as well, any idea of how much that is going to run? Keep up the good work!
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Looks like a great solution to controlling the DMX. I am looking for a DMX controller for my star ceiling as well, any idea of how much that is going to run? Keep up the good work!
DarkMATTer81,

I am very sorry for the long delay in responding. I have been stuck out of the country for work for waaaay to long and just got back this afternoon. The DMX controller was $200 + shipping. I also ordered the IR kit which was $20 if I remember correctly. Just email them and ask the prices. They will give you a list price and dealer price. They sold the stuff to me at the dealer price. I did manage to spend a few hours with it last time I was home. I have zero DMX experience and it was not too hard to get some basic scenes programmed and working. They have two software packages, Pro DMX and LED Player (and another maybe). The LED player is the only one that will program the device for stand alone mode. I have only barely began to figure it out.
 

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