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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, So im in the process of building a Tuba HT box and from what I read its important to use the right Driver in this enclose.


I currently have a Dayton TIT400C-4 15" Titanic Mk III - http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=295-420 with the 1000 Watt amp that came with it. I'm very unhappy with the amp so I will probably replace it at some point this is besides the point tho.


I'll be graduating college shortly and have a job lined up so I'm gearing up to throw some serious money at my audio system. Lets say we have a budget in the area of $500 dollars for the driver. Is it worth buying a different sub or should the driver I currently have suffice?


Thanks in advance
 

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The THT was designed around a specific driver so going with what the plan recommends or something very similar is the way to go. A different/larger driver would need a different and probably larger box to have any beneficial results from what I understand. The THT can be built for 400 bucks start to finish so you I would recommend multiple THT's if you are ready to throw 500 at a driver alone
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Okay thats what i thought... I think the driver I have now is close enough... I hope. Anyone know?
 

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On page one of the THT plans, Bill Fitzmaurice says to make sure the driver is not more than 7.5" deep, or it won't fit into the cabinet.


The Titanic MkIII you linked to has a mounting depth of 8 3/8".


It won't fit.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapider /forum/post/18290132


Okay thats what i thought... I think the driver I have now is close enough... I hope. Anyone know?

It's more than just cone size, it is all of the T/S parameters.

Although I did not compare them to the recommended driver.
 

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The Titanic specs out fine, but the depth is a major issue. It is by no means a simple mod to make that driver work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I built the box with proper clearence... just added 4" to the boxes overall height with all that just increasing the internal chamber 4".
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSounds /forum/post/18291908


The Titanic specs out fine, but the depth is a major issue. It is by no means a simple mod to make that driver work.

What is so difficult about the mod?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapider /forum/post/18292188


I built the box with proper clearence... just added 4" to the boxes overall height with all that just increasing the internal chamber 4".

That also changes the flare rate on 2 sections of horn path. I'm not sure how much that will matter, but its not 'just increasing the internal chamber'.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt /forum/post/18292413


That also changes the flare rate on 2 sections of horn path. I'm not sure how much that will matter, but its not 'just increasing the internal chamber'.

I certainly see what you guys are saying and it occurred to be during construction, I guess we will just have to see how it turns out.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapider /forum/post/18292376


What is so difficult about the mod?

Minding proper fold and flare rate as to not change the response isn't as simple as stretching here and there. If I decide to use Titanics instead of DVCs in my new set of THTs, I'll have to adjust 75% of the dimensions. It is something I am willing to do to get the more robust driver, but I'll have to completely reengineer my assembly process. Not something highly recommended.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSounds /forum/post/18292750


Minding proper fold and flare rate as to not change the response isn't as simple as stretching here and there. If I decide to use Titanics instead of DVCs in my new set of THTs, I'll have to adjust 75% of the dimensions. It is something I am willing to do to get the more robust driver, but I'll have to completely reengineer my assembly process. Not something highly recommended.

Well I will start of with you guys are clearly way over my head with this stuff at this point. I'm working basing my design off of what Ive seen in some other build threads so I'm sure I'm not making a perfect THT to begin with... hopefully close to a great design produces a very good design.


How would you go about re engineering your box for the bigger more robust driver? I'm a graduating engineer so I have some interest in this.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapider /forum/post/18293073


Well I will start of with you guys are clearly way over my head with this stuff at this point. I'm working basing my design off of what Ive seen in some other build threads so I'm sure I'm not making a perfect THT to begin with... hopefully close to a great design produces a very good design.


How would you go about re engineering your box for the bigger more robust driver? I'm a graduating engineer so I have some interest in this.

You start from scratch and design the horn your driver wants/your room can accomodate.


Look at the links in my sig. By the way, the Titanic 15 models pretty well in a tapped horn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by RobG5589 /forum/post/18293119


So you changed the enclosure dimensions to accommodate the driver



That should be interesting

We are talking about some minimal adjustments.
 

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I to would like to know what other drivers are compatible in a THT besides the Dayton and Tempest Classic (if you can find one these days).
 
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