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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Needless to say I want the bass, but simply don't have the space because someone had to go with the biggest screen that would fit on the wall (120"). Or I'm not sure how to best use the space I've been given. The room is a work in process so there is always the ability to knock back a bit of wall or cut a hole in it.


I have already purchased the plans for both the THT and the LP THT knowing that I wasn't sure which one would end up working. I currently have 3 locations that could possibly support these deisgns, two of which would be placed in the other room and somehow made to work into the theater. I've included a sketch that shows my room and where I would possibly put them. Also included are shots of the room.




#1 21" wide between two widest studs. I could enclose the LP in a seperate knock out here and fire it at the ceiling. Not sure if it would bring the sound into the room appropriately.


#2 27" wide between two widest studs. I could do the same as #1 or possibly put a 24" THT in here. Not sure if I would have to build around the THT or if I could just cut a whole in the drywall and fire it into the room.


#3. Lay a LP on its side under the screen on the stage. I only have 19" of height here and I would likely have to attach my center speaker to the sub. It would block the screen if it sat on top of it.


#3.1 I could possibly lay the LP in front of the stage. Not really fond of this idea.


#4 I could also try to put the LP down the left wall lying on its side. The THT would probably be to high and block the screen.


I won't start the sub till after Christmas, but while the walls are rough I'd like to make any changes necessary. Opionions, thoughts, and ideas are more than appreciated.


***The last two photos show position #1.




 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
A few more photos.


The first is of location #2. The others show the area next to the AV rack where I could possibly put the sub, but it's likely the largest tank will move to where the smaller one is and be put in-wall so it can be viewed from the theater. The third shows why I had to build the stage. The last one if my beloved cockpit which is amazing for racing GT5 in the theater.



 

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Experimentation and measurement with some smaller subs and putting them where the THT mouths will be would be the ebst way to find this out. Wherever you get the least amount of change between the seats and no large freq response dips are your winner locations.


It is absolutely impossible for anyone to say for sure where to best put them just by looking at pics.


JSS
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I do understand that changing around placement will play the biggest role in the response, but I do have another question/idea. I'm really leaning towards one the first two positions because it allows me to keep the beast out of the main viewing area. I want to avoid having to build a wall around the sub to keep the sound in the theater. (ok the majority of the sound) I was wondering if I put an angle on the top of the LP and took that angle to the top of the ceiling what that would do to my output. I would only cut of the area in the wall where the "adjusted" mouth is. I've included a shot of what I'm considering.



*Thanks to bill for the model. If there is an issue with me posting an edited photo please let me know.


I would possibly add a few inches to the edge of the mouth to bring it even with the drywall and not into the space between the studs.


I remember some about wave properties from high school physics, but I just don't know what this will do to the sub or if it will even help direct the waves into the room.
 

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Wow, that wall inset is a great idea if it works; I don't see why it wouldn't since it not very different than having a ceiling over the sub. Sure uses up less space than a Tuba HT and construction doesn't need to be pretty since it's hidden from view.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by wlecount /forum/post/19571609


I was wondering if I put an angle on the top of the LP and took that angle to the top of the ceiling what that would do to my output. I would only cut of the area in the wall where the "adjusted" mouth is.

That works. While you're at it make the 'adjusted' mouth 20% to 30% larger than the original, to extend the horn taper and get a bit better sensitivity and extension. So instead of a 17" extension of the length make it 24 to 30 inches, as the installation allows.
 
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