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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
G'day all.


I moved "house" several months ago, from a unit with a 7.4m x 3.6m living room to one that's 4 metres deep and around 4.5 wide... So pretty different.


The old curtain-rails-with-black-curtains down the side of the old room had to go, I had to drop from 4 surround speakers to 2, and the screen size had to drop from 106" to 92".


So it's all a lot more "lifestyle-friendly"!




The main reason for posting these pics is to promote the idea of projection screen masking.


Having dark masking like this is quick, cheap and easy... but makes an absolutely ENORMOUS difference to the perceived picture.


There's also a layer of absorbent material behind the screen and surrounding area. Of course, this has completely changed the sound of the room, making it far less live and pingy.



Looking at the (badly taken) pics, you'll see that there's a matte-black roller blind, which comes down to eliminate letterbox bars. I had this made by a blind shop for around $80, and in my case, it's screwed to the screen's headbox (of course, you can mount it wherever you like so long as it works).


Above the headbox, there's a simple curtain rail, with two matte-black curtains on either side of the screen... That's it.


The projector has a vertical lens shift, and can zoom the picture from 75" to 92", with the bottom of the picture always in line with the bottom of the screen.


What we'll generally do is run 1.78 / 1.85 films & TV at a size of around 80 inches, and 2.35 scope films at 92 inches.



If you want to have a "common bottom-line" setup like this, one thing to be aware of is the latitude of your projector's lens shift. This just takes a bit of experimenting before you install.

I have a BenQ W5000 (which I love) but its lens shift limitations meant I had to mount it a little lower than originally intended, so that a 2.40 picture would line up with the bottom of the screen.


What about subtitles that appear outside 2.35 letterbox area if you don't have a DVD/Blu player that allows subtitle-shifting?

They can either appear below the screen onto the black area below (albeit dimmer), or the picture can be racked up with the bottom letterbox area hitting the screen.


To pull the sofa forward and adjust everything would take up to 30 seconds, but makes all the difference in the world !



EQUIPMENT LIST (since updated - pics are old):

Projector: Benq W6000
Surround pre-pro: Marantz AV7005
Power amps: Samson Servo-150 for side surrounds. All other speakers are active.
Projection screen: One sheet of 3mm MDF - 2400 x 1200 mm, painted to roughly 0.9 gain.
Speakers - Front: KRK Rokit 10-3 for front three speakers.
Speakers - Surround: Infinity BETA ES-250 for side surrounds (in dipole mode), KRK Rokit 5 for rear surrounds.
Subwoofer: Gone !
Blu-ray / Region 4 DVD: Sony PS3 Slim 120Gb

HDDVD / Other region DVD:
Toshiba HD-EP10
HDTV: Sony SVR-HD700
CD: Arcam Alpha 8 (with LClock X03 mod)
Stereo pre-pro: Creek OBH-22 passive
Rack monitor: 23.6" NeonIQ LED TV (doubles as PC monitor and TV)
HT PC running a 1920x1080 desktop



























 
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Hey electric, I have been looking at roller blinds that are remote controlled, that would drop down to the desired height, I am big into automation.


I found a few but they were pretty expensive. Do you know if that would work in my setup.


Im hoping the blind rod, would attach to my electric screen projector case.


And then I could make a macro in my mx-810, where the roller drops and the projector lens shifts down with the press of one button.


I just dont know if it would work, im still kind of lost, but I would like to go your route.
 

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Forgive my ignorance but assume the masking is done to minimize the effect of the top/bottom horizontal black image bars due to scaling by 16:9 PJ of much wider movie aspect ratio content.


We chose to use a gray Da-lite fixed wall screen and the gray does two significant things - in our opinion.


One is that it almost eliminates the visibility of the black bars to a very satisfactory degree and the Second is it reflects almost no light back into the viewing room which also in our opinion enhances the "Theater" effect - we were simply astounded at how much light our first screen - a white one - reflected back into our eyes and the viewing room so gray did the trick for us.

Best of Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by antwon412 /forum/post/15752895


dumb question - why is your projector angled like that?

Because the front and back walls aren't perpendicular to each other. The front wall has an angle of around 20 degrees.

The sofa also has to be angled like that when watching.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blasst /forum/post/15751841


Nice little setup. How far is your seating from the screen?

Seating from the screen will vary from 2.2 metres, to 3.6 metres, which is all the way up against the back wall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by imjay /forum/post/15751906


Forgive my ignorance but assume the masking is done to minimize the effect of the top/bottom horizontal black image bars due to scaling by 16:9 PJ of much wider movie aspect ratio content.


We chose to use a gray Da-lite fixed wall screen and the gray does two significant things - in our opinion.


One is that it almost eliminates the visibility of the black bars to a very satisfactory degree and the Second is it reflects almost no light back into the viewing room which also in our opinion enhances the "Theater" effect - we were simply astounded at how much light our first screen - a white one - reflected back into our eyes and the viewing room so gray did the trick for us.

Best of Luck

I'm making this bigger, for all to see...



The masking achieves a number of things...


1. No letterbox bars.


2. No pillarbox bars.


3. Allows the picture to vary in size, depending on quality and aspect of the source, number of people in the room, level of tiredness, etc.


4. Having a large area of black around the screen makes a shockingly huge perceptual difference.


5. Helps reduce the amount of light bouncing around the room.


6. Provides sound absorbtion (to a very large degree, in my room).


7. Allows a layer of acoustic material to be be placed behind to further deaden the room.


8. Actually looks a lot more attractive than just a blank wall with a plain screen.

NB: Using a more theatrical deep red material might look even better and offer more wife-approval-factor!



I've always avoided grey screens for exactly that reason - they reduce brightness way too much for my liking. They're also overpriced, and movie theatres never use them anyway.

Black masking / surrounds provides a much more theatrical effect, imo.
 

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Very nice setup! Can you elaborate a little on your PJ mount/wiring? As you can see from my signature, I have a living room FP setup with the BenQ (W5K, but now W20K) and am setting it on wire shelving. I like how yours allows the back of the couch against the wall and keeps it out of the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Murilo /forum/post/15751123


Hey electric, I have been looking at roller blinds that are remote controlled, that would drop down to the desired height, I am big into automation.


I found a few but they were pretty expensive. Do you know if that would work in my setup.


Im hoping the blind rod, would attach to my electric screen projector case.


And then I could make a macro in my mx-810, where the roller drops and the projector lens shifts down with the press of one button.


I just dont know if it would work, im still kind of lost, but I would like to go your route.

Replied back in the Benq W5000 thread.

Not sure about the automated bit, but with a chain driven manual roller-blind, it's very little trouble.

I'd say it takes around 30 seconds to pull out the couch and adjust everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by RobZ /forum/post/15755696


Very nicely done setup! Definitely evidence that a nice FP can happen virtually anywhere. What are your mains and center?

Cheers.


Front mains are VAF Research DC-X (Generation 4).

Center speaker is the same, but rather than the standard-issue DC-6, I asked for a custom-made, larger centre that's every bit the equal of the left & right.


They're very clean, efficient and accurate - and I highly recommend them.


With the DC-X, I doubt I'd bring back the subwoofer even if I lived in a house!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by LilGator /forum/post/15757339


Very nice setup! Can you elaborate a little on your PJ mount/wiring? As you can see from my signature, I have a living room FP setup with the BenQ (W5K, but now W20K) and am setting it on wire shelving. I like how yours allows the back of the couch against the wall and keeps it out of the way.

I've just got a standard microwave oven wall-bracket (around $30), along with some small rubber strips to protect the underside of the projector.


3.7 metres of Aussieduct (any wall conduit will do), runs above and takes all six cables to the side wall, where they run down the corner and travel underneath a slab of spare carpet to the AV rack.



The only cabling running to the projector (these days) is HDMI and power.

HDMI is a 10-metre Concord cable, which sells for AU$98 at Jaycar Electronics. As you'd expect - zero difference between that and expensive snake-oil cable.


Same goes for the surround speaker cables, which are two pairs of generic medium-thickness 12-guage OFC running to each speaker.



In your room, having a masking setup would make a huge difference... except perhaps with blood-red theatre curtains for higher wife-approval-factor!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electric_Haggis /forum/post/15757558


I've just got a standard microwave oven wall-bracket (around $30), along with some small rubber strips to protect the underside of the projector.


3.7 metres of Aussieduct (any wall conduit will do), runs above and takes all six cables to the side wall, where they run down the corner and travel underneath a slab of spare carpet to the AV rack.



The only cabling running to the projector (these days) is HDMI and power.

HDMI is a 10-metre Concord cable, which is sells for AU$98 at Jaycar Electronics. As you'd expect - zero difference between that and expensive snake-oil cable.


Same goes for the surround speaker cables, which are two pairs of generic medium-thickness 12-guage OFC running to each speaker.



In your room, having a masking setup would make a huge difference... except perhaps with blood-red theatre curtains for higher wife-approval-factor!

Aloha Haggis,


Damn you Aussies are smart! Such an easy and nice looking masking system. Just to be clear, you have the pull down shade screwed directly into your screen case? Is your screen electric?


Mahalo. And thanks for setting up this thread
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by bdbaba /forum/post/15757876


Aloha Haggis,


Damn you Aussies are smart! Such an easy and nice looking masking system. Just to be clear, you have the pull down shade screwed directly into your screen case? Is your screen electric?


Mahalo. And thanks for setting up this thread

No worries.


Yep - the chain-driven manual roller blind is screwed directly to the screen's headbox.


No - the screen isn't electric. Unlike days of old, the screen never moves. Only the projector's lens shift, the blind and perhaps the side-curtains do.

Btw, I've revised my first post at the top of the page to include more details.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyb /forum/post/15758107


NICE!!


How do you keep the blind close to the screen?


Thanks,

Scott

It's mounted to the underside of the headbox, so the blind is less than a centimetre from the screen surface.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electric_Haggis /forum/post/15758156


It's mounted to the underside of the headbox, so the blind is less than a centimetre from the screen surface.


Electric_Haggis,


Can you give us a closeup shot of the matte-black roller blind? Any degree of reflections coming off of it?


Looks like this might turn into a Benq 5k/20k hangout sub thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blasst /forum/post/15764752


Electric_Haggis,


Can you give us a closeup shot of the matte-black roller blind? Any degree of reflections coming off of it?


Looks like this might turn into a Benq 5k/20k hangout sub thread.

Done... See updated first post.


And no - No reflections as long as it's reasonably thick, black, matte material.
 
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