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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I soldered the new leads I bent the terminals up a little for easier access, then back down as best I could, but I think I will have to bend them out more. Initially I bent the leads out, bowed them out, they all slapped bad. I then bent them all up, pinched them together then let them go, much better, but still a problem at high excursion. Should I bend the prongs out first and see what happens, or bend prongs and leads out? I took pics of all 8 sets.















 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The leads need to go over the spiders unfortunately these arent woven



My girlfriend keeps telling me to trim them too, but at full excursion they pull tight, I think theyre cut at the perfect length..I am not posative though!


I was at 18Hz I am doing 11Hz now and they are quiet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Still have it, played bass i love you.


I now recall last night when i pulled all the old leads out, the terminals were bent down and the leads came in from the top. Today I bent them up and soldered them in from the wrong side!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I usually hate soldering but I think Im getting a little better, and I may have saved them:















 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Got an email back from Fi, they cut them long so you can trim them to length. So 1st problem is I'm guessing I need to get one of those braided looking things that soak up solder when you hold it tight with the hot iron? Wick or something? As I was not able to put most of the new leads through the clogged holes in the terminals.


When I undo all 16 tinsels and clean up all 16 terminal holes, how long do I make the damn things if I can get them through the holes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
gotta love Scott's service!


" Those leads will not last nor will they keep quiet. Long like that will slap on the cone and fatigue... sooner than later. I will see if I can find a solid pic of a sub with the proper lead length on an IB318. It is MUCH shorter than that.

You want the leads to come out fairly close to parallel with the cone (meaning you may have to tip the terminal ends up some so that they are at the same level as the lead exiting the cone. This makes in/out lead length equal and minimizes the amount of lead to be used. If you desolder the leads, clean out the holes, stick the terminal tabs up so that the solder holes are on a similar plane to the lead out on the cone, pull the lead through the terminal tabs, then push and pull the cone to the max limit, the lead will pull to its needed limit. Then just give it a little bump for solder wicking. "
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ya I went off the "how to recone" sticky on ROE where they tell ya to leave them as long as they are
 

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What about wrapping a thin rubber band around the center of each lead and attaching the other end to the spider? One that's thin enough so it won't inhibit the movement of the leads, but strong enough to pull the leads back before the cone can hit them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by flyng_fool /forum/post/19941568


What about wrapping a thin rubber band around the center of each lead and attaching the other end to the spider? One that's thin enough so it won't inhibit the movement of the leads, but strong enough to pull the leads back before the cone can hit them.

thats a good idea, how should I attatch to the spider?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by kryptonitewhite /forum/post/19942102


thats a good idea, how should I attatch to the spider?

Either a dab of epoxy, or drill a small hole near the edge of the arm of the spider, poke the rubber band through the hole and then thread the rubber band back through itself(the same way you attach it to the tinsel lead).
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz /forum/post/19944652


Or make bumpers of low density foam for the leads to hit

it already has slap pads, but the concerne is theyre too long and will wear out, I just need to cut them shorter and resolder
 
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