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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am ready for tile in the bathroom and I was wondering about the toilet flange. Should it be installed so that tha flange rests on top of the tile or should it be flush with the tile? I've gotten two different answers so far and just wondering what most on here did.
 

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I believe that code requires it to be a little above the top of the tile (but not below it). In looking at my plumbing book, it says that the floor flange should rest on the top of the tile.


Good luck!


CJ
 

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Ah,never mind. I thought this was about something else...
 

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I thought it was supposed to be flush....
j/k
 

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Get the extra thick one.


It will squeeze down quite a bit. Actually alot.


I did hardibacker plus tile, so extrathick works.


You dont really need to give it the steroid jerk, just tight as to where you you cant move the john around, then another couple turns.


And if it leaks maybe steroids are for you
, or just give it a one grunter.


Also if you break the toilet, you went too far. Get off the roids.


And try again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK, so the flange should sit on the tile? I currently have just the stub out coming out of the concrete floor. So, I should have the tile guy tile to the 3" stub out, then cut the pipe down flush to the tile and then install the flange into the 3" stub out so that its sitting on top of the tile? Then obviously the wax ring and toilet on top. Hmmm, thats what I thought too but a couple dudes at HD said that the flange should be installed so that its flush with the finished floor ( the tile).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by putputpanorama /forum/post/18282645


Get the extra thick one.


It will squeeze down quite a bit. Actually alot.


I did hardibacker plus tile, so extrathick works.


You dont really need to give it the steroid jerk, just tight as to where you you cant move the john around, then another couple turns.


And if it leaks maybe steroids are for you
, or just give it a one grunter.


Also if you break the toilet, you went too far. Get off the roids.


And try again.

So did you install the flange on top of the tile or did you tile flush to the flange?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Intricate1 /forum/post/18282372


the flange should rest on top of the tile. Also the flange should be secured to the floor... really secure.

How the heck can I secure it to the concrete floor?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by biz64 /forum/post/18283296


So did you install the flange on top of the tile or did you tile flush to the flange?

Flange was existing, tile around it, throw a extra thick wax ring and good to go.



Lest I know what a flange is after reading these posts?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by carboranadum /forum/post/18282726


'roids going to your head? The OP asked about the flange, not the wax seal. That is good advice about the wax seal....



CJ

yeah the roids are raging, flange, wax seal, crapper tank, thats how I learned, I may be mistaken, but am somewhat possitive.


On a new contruction as to the OP, yes you would want the flange on top of tile. Then the Extra thick wax ring rigging setup is no longer needed.


If your doing tile on a remodel, it'd be surprising to hear the tile guy saying you need to call a plumber to raise the flange so it'd seal.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by biz64 /forum/post/18283292


cut the pipe down flush to the tile and then install the flange into the 3" stub out so that its sitting on top of the tile?

You'll want a flange that fits aver the outside of the 3" pipe rather than fitting on the inside. The fitting that goes inside the flange would decrease your opening size too much (in my opinion). Therefore, have the tileguy leave a space around the pipe (if you get a flange that fits over the outside).


To confirm, flange sits on top of finished floor. Check out the Terry Love forums if you have any other plumbing related questions.
 

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I think Big is suggesting to chaulk around the base of the toilet after waiting for a few weeks to make sure there are no leaks. I used to think that until I saw a toilet that was chaulked and the floor had rotted out because the owner was unable to see that the water was leaking from the wax ring.


Wax rings give out over time from use. If you chaulk the bowl to the floor, you may not know it is leaking until it is too late.
 

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Thats why I only caulk the front half (between 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock). That way, you get the urine getting under the bowl and festering protection, while still allowing some room for leaks to show through.
 

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Yea, I only caulk from 2 to 10. Getting to that very back part that you can't see isn't worth the effort. And, it does give you an area for the leak to come out and become noticeable before you end up on the floor below.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Great! Thanks for the advice guys. I just rechecked and its actually a 4" stub out ( you would think I would remember as I'm the one who put it there). So I think I will go with the male fitting flange that goes into the stub out so I don't have to chisel the concrete out. And I will take Bigs advice on the caulking also. Thanks again.
 

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The bottom of the flange should be flush with the top of the tile. Use two wax rings if your concerned with a leak. Caulk (Use Dap) the entire base of the water closet.

Information provided by a comercial plumbing contractor...
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by biz64 /forum/post/18283301


How the heck can I secure it to the concrete floor?

Tapcons work well. Or you can use plugs and anchors. The problem is this, the plastic flange can (and often does) snap if abnormal forces are applied to the commode... If the flange is bolted it allows less flex on the plastic and less chance it can snap. I will say after you follow Bigs advice and caulk a couple weeks later the odds are much slimmer. I would also disagree with using two wax seals the extra wax can get moved to the throat of the commode causing a place the paper can drag on.


If there is a flange existing and they tile next to the flange, use a flange extender, you use extra long commode bolts put a thin layer of silicone between the two, wiping the excess as you use a second set of nuts (they are beveled) to bolt the extender to the flange. Those nuts are recessed into the bevel(the rounded bevel end goes into the beveled piece) If you cannot find an extender you can make your own by cutting the flange portion off of the coupling portion of the fitting.


If you mean you have 4 inch pipe exiting the concrete allow the tile to come the 4inch pipe and use a 4x3 closet flange and glue to the inside of the 4inch pipe and secure the flange to the concrete through the tile.


This could all be my opinion, however i have done plumbing in everything from track homes to multi-million dollar homes to commercial installs. Only been doing it about 27 years.
 
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