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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all

I bought a Toshiba MT7 a few weeks ago. -Have been playing arround with the setting a little bit.


I'm using a Da-Lite Insta Theater 100" High Power screen @ about 14 feet. The room has white walls and light control. I'm only using progressive DVD feed via component.


Is there anybody here that can give me some advise or share experiences on settings.


Thanks


//Robert
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi all


Is there nobody out there using the MT?


Or are everybody using standard settings?


Thanks for your point ahagen. I have already tried with AVIA but with strange results.


If anybody out there is using the MT7 please forward yóur favorite settings.


Thanks


//Robert
 

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Hi,


I've got an MT7 myself, but don't know the settings by heart. I have s-vhs and component sources. I'm thinking of getting a 720p output RGBHV dvd player, but since I can't get any computer source to work in 16:9 with powerstrip, I'm still figuring out what the best quality dvd feed would be like.


About optimal settings, ROne has been helpful in this forum before, check http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&highlight=mt7 or his MT7 FAQ at http://www.rone.go-plus.net/faq.htm


Jeroen
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Jeroen020


Thanks for your input.


The MT7 FAQ and the other "forum link" info seems to be from the same guy and he is using a gray screen. I have a normal white sceeen.


I hace tried those settings


Contrast 5 ( I guess that he means +5)

Brightness +3

Colour 0

Tint 0

Sharpness -3/4

RGB - back off on the green about 2-3 steps


but with so much contracts and brightness I loose out to much on the blacks on the white screen. And if I take contrast and brightness down the colors get strange.


What setting are you using


best regards and thanks

//Robert
 

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This is bloody ridiculous !


Is there no way to connect an HTPC to an MT7 and get native 16:9 resolution ?


I have read in the one thread about this that the picture was crap trying to convert to component from RGB via a converter.


Anyone figured it out ?
 

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I've got the MT7 as well but sorry, no HTPC. For now, I'm using a Panasonic RP 56 progressive scan DVD player as the sole input. I calibrated the pj with AVIA but don't have access to the settings right now - they wouldn't be much use to you anyway since it was a quick calibration with the picture displayed on a white bedsheet. My dalite screen is currently on order. However, even with the quick AVIA tweak on the bedsheet, I noticed a significant improvement in the picture.


I'll post more information once I get the pj installed on the ceiling and a proper screen in place.
 

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BTW - anyone know what the bolt sizes are for the ceiling mount holes? The two holes on the bottom of the pj appear to be M4. But I'm not sure about the 2 smaller holes on the back of the pj.


Unfortunately, the local Home Depot and Lowes home improvement centers don't offer bolts any smaller than M4.
 

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ahagen,


you can get the native rez of the projector by using 1280x960 in powerstrip and then enabling the thru mode on the menu.


This will cut a 1280x720 window out of the 1280x960 and leave you with 1-1 RGB. Very good quality it is indeed.


However .... you will get tearing and jerky playback no matter what freq you use.


Next best is use the RGB-YUV convertor for 1280x720, its not 1-1 pixel but its the best option, and providing you take the gamma down to 1 in zoom player the picture is very good as well, losing a little softness and colour fidelity to the RGB method but is a lot better than the other than a dvd player.
 

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I've had my projector running ISCAN pro and DENON 2800 progressive scan NTSC and PAL and while good do not even come close to running a HCPC through 720p.


However as mentioned the RGB-VGA gives an even bigger improvement but loses synch with the picture hence tearing and juddering so this method is a no no.


Its true on of the first things I discovered is the MT-7 de-interlacer is poor, and this was a hard lesson coming from lower res mt-1 where the were no artifacts. So I sort all the methods of improving this - first ISCAN/DENON route then onto PC. The ISCAN was good and I saw a big improvement, although it did soften the picture and introduce slightly off balanced flesh tones which I couldn't tweak out.


So I went for the HCPC and was amazed at the jump, settled on cineplayer 4 with zoomplayer front end. The conversion from RGB-YUV is handled by the key digital transcoder which introduces a little softening and some odd colour representations but you can tweak them out.
 

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It doesn't matter whether you use PS or just the drivers (PS just enables more locked out rez's such as 1280x720), as 1280x960 is a 4:3 rez I seem to remember it's there as standard.


Let me know how you get on.


I nocthed up about 200 hours messing around like this!
 

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I just bought a KeyDigital to connect my Radeon 8500 to my Toshiba MT-7. I set the transcoder to "automatic" and get nothing on the projector. I have the MT-7 set to Component Input. No picture. In fact, the Radeon driver doesn't even recognize that there is a monitor connected. I have it connected this way: DVI -> VGA -> Transcoder -> YUV -> VGA Breakout -> MT-7.


Any thougths?


Thanks!

Mike
 

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I will not address your question directly as I don;t have a key digital but the Radeon 8500 is capable of outputing a native 720p signal to the MT7. This is how I do it:


1. Plug in Radeon HDTV Convertor dongle. This enables a composite display interface.

2. Set the properties : 16:9 720p.

3. Remove dongle. Plug in regular RGB cable.


With some experimentation I end up with a 720p desktop. The problem is cropping the screen. the Powerdesk has settings that allow optimizing that. And the various players all respond differently.


I wish I had a simpler method to publish but I am still figuring it out. But without the 29.00 dongle. The Composite YpBr (whatever) menu will not appear. But when it is working properly the composite menu disappears.


Strange but true
 

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I finally got it to work, but with serious overscan. A bit of playing around with Powerstrip got it to work. The bonus is that my 17" Viewsonic monitor (attached to the VGA loop through port) doesn't mind this resolution/refresh combo. The picture is tall and skinny, but that's easily fixed by squishing the image vertically in the monitor's setup menu. I now have a 1280x720 "letterboxed" desktop on my 17" monitor.


I plan on having Powerstrip automatically pick this resolution whenever PowerDVD or DScaler is launched. When I'm done, it should switch back to 1280x1024 @ 75Hz. The projector won't like it, but I'll be done with it by then.


I think there are still some Projector and Powerstrip tweaks yet to be made.


Mike
 

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ahagen,


I'm a little confused (as I don't have the 8500 or component dongle) .. are you saying that you can get 720p out of the 8500 without the CD? And what form is this taking - YUV or RGB?


mdcsoft


Didn't send you any timings for 720p as you figured it out pretty quick. However I do have some timings which reduce the overscan in 720p. But your aspect will not be 16:9 as I can only squash the vertical.


Also I don't know if you guys have had chance to mess with the colours yet but i seem to have to lower the gamma to get decent flesh tones. Anybody care to comment on setting up their greyscale and RGB gain.
 

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Sorry for the confusion. Here is the breakdown of what I did:


I bought a KeyDigital KD-VTCA2 RGB->YUV Transcoder. The VGA output from my Radeon 8500 goes into the RGB input of the transcoder. The VGA out from the transcoder goes into my 17" Viewsonic PC monitor. The YUV output from the transcoder goes into my RGB Breakout cable and into the VGA plus on the MT7.


Powerstrip is set for some very strange resolution, 1166x650 (or something like that). It's a resolution that came with the program and specifically said LCD next to it. I tried that and got a square-pixel desktop on my 16x9 screen with no overscan. The Viewsonic monitor can also handle this resolution, though everything is stretched vertically. That problem was easily solved through the monitor's adjustments.


I set up Powerstrip to select this new resolution automatically whenever DScaler or PowerDVD starts. It switches back to 1024x768 when those apps close.


The signal out of the video card is RGB, with the transcoder doing all the work. What I end up with on the projector is 720p, with enough active pixels to elliminate the overscan.


Tuesday night I watched Lord of the Rings (Widescreen, 2.35:1) from PowerDVD through this set up. It looked and sounded great. However, I'm not convinced that the improved picture quality is worth the effort and aggravation (plus the increased noise from the PC). In fact, I'm not entirely convinced that the picture is any better than my Toshiba progressive-scan DVD player. *sigh* So far, the only undeniable benefit has been 16:9 games from the PC.


Yesterday I received my new Dish 6000 HDTV receiver. Tonight I'll hook it up and see what Discover-HD looks like.


I'd still like to compare my PS timings with yours, ROne, to see if it's possible to tweak the picture even more.


Mike
 

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Gentlemen:


An update to my setup.


I use the ATI Radeon 8500 Card and its capabilities to transmit a native YPBpR (Composite Signal to the projector). This allows a perfect mapping to the native mode of the Toshiba TLP-MT7 pixal panel, i.e. 1280 x 720 progressive.


To get it working you first use the HDTV Dongle to enable this, then remove it and replace it (on both ends with a RGB cable) thus no transcoding.


I can now simply plug in the HDTV dongle, activating the second display in YPBpR 1280 x 720 16:9 mode. Then disconnect the dongle and plug in the RGB Connector.


This allows using the same cable to connect to the MyHD capture cards HD output or for DIVX AAVI/DVD Play by connecting it to the second RGB connector on the Radeon 8500.


So the setup works fairly well, but I am not happy with the PQ. I believe I need to calibrate the colors better. Anyone got any feedback on tuning this to resemble the quality of a 21" crt ? What I do is display the picture on both the CRT and the PJ and experiment with the settings on the PJ to get it as close to the CRT as possible. Another frustrating thing is I get a scan line passing through the picture (faint and only in light scenes) unless the PJ and the HTPC are plugged into the same power source.
 
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