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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am trying to make up my mind on whether to keep or return a Toshiba MT8.


I am using the projector with the Da-Lite Cinema Vision High contrast screen - 45 x80


I like the resolution in the picture and I have done a basic setup of the projector with AVIA, everything seems to be fine - contrast, brightness, color ect.


The only thing that really bugs me with this projector is what seems to be some kind of ringing that seems to go on with the projector.


I can describe it as a kind of mosquito noise/screen door effect that you sometimes see on LCD projector. It is just that on this projector, it seems to be present at all times.


The effect seems to be diminished if you turn off Trulife but is still there. This effect is present in both HD as well as component DVD (progressive or interlaced)


The best way I can describe it is that the picture is really "edgy" it is like a tube TV with really bad edge enhancement.


Is my projector likely to be defective in some way? My dealer who has seen the projector says that it seems to be the same as their demo.


If it is not, is there some service menu setting which could take the edge out?


I have another week to make up my mind. Could you more experienced MT8/Infocus 7200 owners point me to a solution for this problem.


Thank you .
 

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Please PM Bob Williams (one of the lead engineers of Infocus home products). He is a forum member and can probably answer your questions with more fact than speculation.
 

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Your description does not match what I see on my 7200 but I am wondering if you are describing the effect that the version 2.9 firmware gamma fixes improved? Check to see if you are running firmware version 2.9 or 3.2. If not, see if you can get your dealer to install the latest firmware (3.2) and check if it fixes your problem. There is a significant PQ improvement with the new film modes. You can install firmware yourself but it takes a special cable for which InFocus charges $50. This is somewhat of a longshot but worth the effort. Most owners, myself included, are very happy with the PQ.


Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the input, I am using the Toshiba MT8 and according to Toshiba, they do not have a 3.2 version of the software.

In veiwing DVDs I am using Gamma set for Film 2


Thanks for the advice
 

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Bob cannot comment on the MT8. I recommend InFocus firmware 3.2 also, but you really should pony up for the cable and be self-sufficient from now on (and you may want to use the projector with a digital monitor someday, anyhow). You'll find extra picture controls that should help a lot to tweak to your specific taste.


I have a 7200 and have been through each of the successive firmware releases. All are worth doing, especially the one from 2.5 to 2.9.


Todd/Indy
 

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That is a pretty small screen for as bright a PJ as the Infocus SP7200 is. If you have complete light control, one the dimmer HD2s would be better for you. The brighter picture makes dithering artifact (which looks like smarming pixels) more obvious. I use the SP7200 with 9' wide screen (123" diagonal), and I don't see the kind of problem that I think you are describing.


If you are fighting ambient light, then you picked the only HD2 that is really bright and able to do that.
 

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I agree with glenned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the input, the part about the dithering artifacts seem to hit the nail on the head. I am not fighting a lot of ambient light, I wonder if going to negative gain screen such as the draper hi-def grey or the greyhawk might not be a solution.


On the other hand, I have seen the Optoma H56 and the NEC HT-1000 on the same screen, and this "noise" effect is much less with those projectors.


I do not think that I will be much interested iin going to one of the other HD2 machines (such as the Marantz or the Sharp) because of budgetary constraints.


Thank you all for the help.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by psanon
Thanks for the input, the part about the dithering artifacts seem to hit the nail on the head. I am not fighting a lot of ambient light, I wonder if going to negative gain screen such as the draper hi-def grey or the greyhawk might not be a solution.


On the other hand, I have seen the Optoma H56 and the NEC HT-1000 on the same screen, and this "noise" effect is much less with those projectors.


I do not think that I will be much interested iin going to one of the other HD2 machines (such as the Marantz or the Sharp) because of budgetary constraints.


Thank you all for the help.
If you think it is simply a matter of being too bright, why not try a neutral density filter to cut the output in half? I bought one for my 7200 (Hoya HC 67mm 2x - ~ $30 @ B&H Photo). You might be able to get a cheap ND filter at a local camera store to try out (return it if it does not work out). Unless there are other reasons for wanting the H56 or HT1000 (price, contrast?) it seems a shame to give up on the higher resolution PJ just because it is too bright. The ND filter is also a lot cheaper than a new screen.
 

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psanon, when you demoed these PJ's, which type of inputs did you use to test? Many people (including myself) notice less noise with the DVI inputs than with component, so it may just be which one you use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the advice on the ND filter. I will give it a try. When the comparisons were made, progressive component and interlaced as well as HD was used as the input.
 

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Question for the throw distance. I have a 100' Firehawk HDTV for my MT-8. The suggested throw distance according to the infocus 7200 calculator is 10.82 feet short, 15.10 feet long. What distance do you suggest?
 

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The longest throw distance is usually best, especially with a FireHawk or other screen with gain, as this will minimize hot spotting.
 

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psanon,


To reduce Noise in the picture: send an interlaced component signal to your PJ so that you can use the Faraudja processing (True Life on) built into the PJ. Set the "Noise reduction" setting to "auto". It will reduce the noise. If you send the PJ a Progressive setting, you can't turn "noise reduction" on. Also, the Film2 and Film1 gammas will reduce dithering artifact, but reduce visibility of shadow detail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Glenned,


Thanks for the tip. What would be the Gamma setting which gives the best compromise between the noise and shadow detail. I am thinking for such movies as Panic Room.


I will try the interlace trick and report back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Have any of you calibrated the Toshiba/Infocus grayscale with ColorFacts. I managed to rent the CF-6000 and came up with the following results. The sensor was placed about 18" from the screen. Everything seems ok except I cannot get the low IREs from 10 - 30 to line up.

I assume the way to do this is thru the color control and I should adjust the RBG Bias to get the Reds under control


Any comments
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Sorry about the post, for some reason, the pictures that I attatched did not make it with the post.


Could someone please tell me how I could attach my pictures with the post.
 

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psanon,


Most of the posters I have read on this forum seem to prefer the Film2 gamma. It reduces dithering artifact by darkening the shadow areas. Consequently, it reduces the color and detail in those same shadowed areas. It is all a matter of which you prefer.


I prefer the "video" gamma. I would rather see the content in the shadows and the dithering artifact, rather than not see either.


Also, I have not seen it, but the new Bravo D1 DVD player puts out a DVI signal that everyone says is superior to component. This might help with PQ on your PJ.
 

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Psanon,


another setting which greatly affects both dithering artifact and shadow detail in low light secens is the "Brightness" setting.


Once you have brightness set correctly, a single click up or down makes a very noticable difference. It is similar to the difference between the Film2 and Video gammas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I have been doing some work on the 7200 and have figured out a couple of issues. This has led to me solving most of the problems with the unit.


I have tried a Grey Da-Lite screen with a negative gain.


I also tried the various settings suggested by Glenned and others and these helped.


The biggest gain so far has been to follow the suggestions given by Greg Rogers in his widescreen review. I obtained the 0.6 ND filter and found that in my room, it made the biggest difference of all.


I think the figure of around 20FTL is about right for me and this projector. Without the filter, the artifacts of this projector were just too bothersome. The screen is 45x80 .


I am still having problems with the color balance but hopefully with the ColorFacts that I am renting, I should be able to resolve the issues.


Does anybody know what Toshiba's policy is with dead pixels. I have one dead pixel.


Thanks to all the advice, and if anybody would like me to, I will post the calibration results with the CF-6000


psanon
 
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