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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Please help me in choosing the right paint for my projector.


Epson 6100 projector sitting on a shelf

110" screen on drywall

16' throw

Seating around 14' from the screen

Some ambient light in the room


What I've learned so far from reading till my eyes bleed are these:


Kilz Premium (or is it Kilz2) for primer

Silver Fire with 2 oz colorant for Paint

Spray paint with the Wagner Control Spray HVLP


I still have some questions though.


1. Should I use the HVLP to spray the primer? How many coats? I'm spraying it on fresh drywall.


2. For the Silver Fire, I'm a little confused with the 2 oz colorant. Do I add everything in the base and viscosity components and then add 2 oz of the color components? For example:

(color components)*

60 ml (2 oz) Distilled / Tap Water - as is

60 ml (2 oz) Delta Pale Metallic Gold #02624 - as is

30 ml Delta Cardinal Red #02077 - add 2x of this to get to 60 ml = 2 oz

17.5 ml Windsor & Newtwon "Galleria" - Pthalo Green (PG7) - add approximately 3.5x of this to get to 60 ml

12.5 ml Delta Ultra Blue #02038 - add approximately 5 of this to get to 60 ml


3. How many coats should I do for the Silver Fire? Will this mixture be enough for the 110" screen (and a little test spray)?


4. Is the Wagner HVLP the one in Lowe's/HD with the CS in the packaging?


Thanks.
 

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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ks7827 /forum/post/16914170


Please help me in choosing the right paint for my projector.

Looks to me like that is something you've already done.
I've used SF-w/2oz Colorant with the 6100 and garnered spectacular results.

Quote:
What I've learned so far from reading till my eyes bleed are these:


Kilz Premium (or is it Kilz2) for primer

Silver Fire with 2 oz colorant for Paint

Spray paint with the Wagner Control Spray HVLP


I still have some questions though.


1. Should I use the HVLP to spray the primer? How many coats? I'm spraying it on fresh drywall.

It's a good method to employ. Thin the Primer with 35-40% filtered water, power Mix it...but slowly so as to not inject a lot of air (bubbles)...strain and then shoot on 3 coats of Primer. (3 thin coats done correctly (rapidly applied from 12-14' away and with 60% Row overlap)

Quote:
2. For the Silver Fire, I'm a little confused with the 2 oz colorant. Do I add everything in the base and viscosity components and then add 2 oz of the color components? For example:

(color components)*

60 ml (2 oz) Distilled / Tap Water - as is

60 ml (2 oz) Delta Pale Metallic Gold #02624 - as is

30 ml Delta Cardinal Red #02077 - add 2x of this to get to 60 ml = 2 oz

17.5 ml Windsor & Newtwon "Galleria" - Pthalo Green (PG7) - add approximately 3.5x of this to get to 60 ml

12.5 ml Delta Ultra Blue #02038 - add approximately 5 of this to get to 60 ml

You should try the latest formula that uses Liquitex Paints. They are a lot easier to measure out accurately, and cost approx. the same per volume. The singular most important reason however is that they are simply better primary colors. Of yeah....., you do add only 2 oz of colorant to the larger "Bases" (Reflective & Viscosity) after they too have been mixed together.

Quote:
3. How many coats should I do for the Silver Fire? Will this mixture be enough for the 110" screen (and a little test spray)?

3 Coats, with perhaps a very quick "Duster Coat" at the end. You should have enough....but you can easily make a percentage larger "Base Mix" and you'll have some Colorant you mixed up as well, so do yourself the favor of making up a bit larger Mix that is needed. Then...you can practice to you heart's (...and mind's....) content.

Quote:
4. Is the Wagner HVLP the one in Lowe's/HD with the CS in the packaging?


Thanks.

Yes...it is. There is one out now that also says "Super Duty" and in some places it has replaced the original Wagner CS. It delivers a bit more paint volume, at a slightly higher pressure, but they are essentially identical units.


Knock it out....and re-post your efforts for others to glean knowledge from.


MMan
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, MMan.


I read your post on the Silver Fire Mix thread where you multiplied the colorant mix by 40. If I do this, all I have to do is draw 60 ml of that colorant mix and add that to the base and viscosity components, right? Is it 60 ml or 59 ml or does that matter?


Also, if i need to mix a larger percentage of SF, say 1.5x, I multiply the base and viscosity components by 1.5x and then add 90 ml of the colorant? This math is killing me.
 

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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ks7827 /forum/post/16919594


Thanks, MMan.


I read your post on the Silver Fire Mix thread where you multiplied the colorant mix by 40. If I do this, all I have to do is draw 60 ml of that colorant mix and add that to the base and viscosity components, right? Is it 60 ml or 59 ml or does that matter?

Less colorant only serves to create a lighter mix. 1 mil is a inappreciably small amount (1/60th) and rounding it up is simply along the same order of increasing the Colorant component's amounts....it makes the process seem less daunting.

Quote:
Also, if I need to mix a larger percentage of SF, say 1.5x, I multiply the base and viscosity components by 1.5x and then add 90 ml of the colorant? This math is killing me.

I died long ago.
Your correct, but double the base....it's easier that way.
 

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I have this same projector and am planning on mounting it on a shelf. Can you show a picture of what your shelf looks like or where you got it? If you built it yourself, what dimensions did you use?
 

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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkuul /forum/post/16952801


I have this same projector and am planning on mounting it on a shelf. Can you show a picture of what your shelf looks like or where you got it? If you built it yourself, what dimensions did you use?

Let me give you an idea on the "build" aspect.


The 6100 measures 5.4" x 17.7" x 14.2" so it is a sizable PJ. It also weighs in at 16+ lbs*. Being Shelf mounted, if you don't want to have to use the extreme end of the Lens Shift feature's adjustment, your Shelf,...store bought or DIY, should be no higher than 6' 10" for a 110" screen whose to edge of the projected image will be at least 12' down from a 8' ceiling. If your ceilings are 9', then the shelf can be at 8'.

* A shelf supported by short "L" brackets underneath AND two diagonal or vertical Chains on top would be the most effective way to do this application. The depth of the Shelf has to be able to accommodate the PJ's connecting Video and Power Cords.


Here are suggested dimensions. 19" wide x 17" deep

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
MMan,


following the directions on the silver fire thread, the mix resulted in less than a gallon. i painted my wall with 3 coats and i probably used only a fourth of the mix. is this about right or am i spraying the mix too thin?


also, is the law of diminishing returns in play here if i paint another coat or two?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ks7827 /forum/post/17060838


MMan,


following the directions on the silver fire thread, the mix resulted in less than a gallon. i painted my wall with 3 coats and i probably used only a fourth of the mix. is this about right or am i spraying the mix too thin?


also, is the law of diminishing returns in play here if i paint another coat or two?

If the screen's surface looks uniformly the same color, and has no apparent weak areas....your where you want to be.. If the underlying White surface is to have any effect on the image, the Top Coat has to be thin and translucent enough to let a small degree if light pass through and reflect back into the surface coating but opaque enough to reflect a substantial amount of light backwards from directly off the surface..


Used to was....to achieve deeper blacks, but allow whites to remain bright, I/we employed a dark Silver Metallic paint in pure form to a surface, then coated it with just enough MMud that the apparent darker underlying surface just "barely" became unnoticeable.


Mirrors replaced that method, and so encouraged the use of a slightly thicker and considerably darker coating, albeit one that had even more translucency due to being thinner, and containing Clear Satin Polyurethane.


Same idea though.....initially reflect projected light, while utilizing the light that is absorbed (brighter...more intense wavelengths) by collecting and returning such light into the surface.


When light passes through such a coating it is attenuated. Collected by a Mirror...it's further attenuated, shifting downward in shade. Recombined with a similar but lighter shade on the surface, the returning light gives the surface light a nudge upward in saturation...but not so much as to over saturate. Deeper Colors....more intense Whites....but improved Blacks.


All that happens with SF over a White surface....just not as intensely so. But as stated earlier. since the White is less reflective than a Mirror, applying less SF paint...up to just the point the White seems gone and the surface evenly coated is the objective.


White Fusion.
Grandson of SM/MMud.
 
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