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Your build is looking great and I'm enjoying following along. Did you by chance take any acoustical sweeps (REW) in that room before you started? I'd love to see how much difference that soffit makes once it is in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Your build is looking great and I'm enjoying following along. Did you by chance take any acoustical sweeps (REW) in that room before you started? I'd love to see how much difference that soffit makes once it is in place.
I will run REW before I fill the soffit as I'm very curious as well how things change. It was some pretty substantial ringing going on when I ran REW a year ago.

I love it! ❤
I am feeling so inadequate right now. I have a dedicated room, but you have a HOME CINEMA!
Thanks, I have a feeling some people around here still will classify this as a TV room though. :laugh:


One thing I'm stuck with is what density insulation to use in the soffits as it will be 10" worth, I know thick bass traps are supposed to use fluffy low density while thin are to use high density. Is 10" thin or thick?
 
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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Some further visible progress this weekend, the surround speaker mounts are in place, these are made out of 3/4" plywood with Monitor Audio wall brackets attached:






And with the GSFX speakers temporarily in place it looked like this:



 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Thick. Use fluffy material. Or do a combo: use a couple inches of rigid insulation as a shelf and then pile the fluffy insulation on top.
Thanks, I will look at the fluffy rockwool options available as I can't stand fibreglass. I will probably make a shelf out of chicken wire stapled to the top of the soffit frame to lay it on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
What are the heights of your wides and surrounds?
As per the picture in the second post, I have all the tweeters for front/wide/surround/rear speakers in a 7 degree slope from the front speakers.

The resulting height for each tweeter is (according to CAD):

Center: 567 mm
Fronts: 880 mm
Wides: 1000 mm
Surrounds: 1129 mm
Rear Surrounds: 1225 mm


I'm looking for ideas to attach fabric frames underneath the soffit. My plan of using magnetic latches for wardrobes didn't work out as intended, probably because I got hold of some rubbish magnets from Amazon. Is the best non-removable option to use a brad nailer with headless nails? The fabric frames are made out of two layers of 3/8" MDF glued and nailed together and 48x24" in size.
 

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I'm looking for ideas to attach fabric frames underneath the soffit. My plan of using magnetic latches for wardrobes didn't work out as intended, probably because I got hold of some rubbish magnets from Amazon. Is the best non-removable option to use a brad nailer with headless nails? The fabric frames are made out of two layers of 3/8" MDF glued and nailed together and 48x24" in size.
I had really good luck with hook and loop (aka off brand Velcro)
You can buy bulk from Uline.com
Just a thought...
When I attached the hook and loop to the walls and the frames , I also stapled it several times over the entire run on both sides to give it that additional mechanical connection instead of just the self adhesive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 · (Edited)
I had really good luck with hook and loop (aka off brand Velcro)
You can buy bulk from Uline.com
Just a thought...
When I attached the hook and loop to the walls and the frames , I also stapled it several times over the entire run on both sides to give it that additional mechanical connection instead of just the self adhesive.
Thanks, I have ordered nearly 150ft of hook and loop from Amazon. It will probably be overkill, but then again I don't really intend to take down the panels once they are up.


I have not done any measurements in REW yet but I have started to look at room mode simulations such as the Room Eigenmode Calculator for this room shape:



I have also started to look at suitable fluffy insulation and played around with the Porus Absorber Calculator. With the avialable space I have to play with a flow resistivity of 3600 Pa.s/m2 should work out nicely:


Blue is if the sound wave is coming in from the side and green if it comes in from below.

The 3600 Pa.s/m2 number is equivalent to 10kg/m3 glass mineral wool according to this graph found over here:



After talking to a represetative over at Knauf the 75mm and 100mm versions of the Knauf Acoustic Roll fits the bill. One bonus is that I only need two rolls to fill the entire soffit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
That shot over my head like a guided missile. Rooms looking great.
In a nutshell what I'm trying to do is to model the best use of the soffit space. Too dense insulation and the space is simply wasted.


Here are a few pictures from trying out the fit of first batch of fabric frames:






Over the past three weeks or so I have had fun and games finding some suitable light fittings. The first set I got turned out to not be Philips Hue compatibe thanks to E14 sockets so they were returned. I then got a second set which was a more suitable E27 socket but the build quality was terrible so they were returned as well.
On the third attempt I finally found a nice pair of antique light fittings on ebay. However they are twice the size of the original fittings so the power I had chased into the wall had to be moved down and to the side a bit. One more layer of filler and a lick of paint and it should be all be restored:




I made some new mounts out of varnished plywood as the original ones were didn't suit the theme. The lights won't be fitted until I'm done with the soffit so until then here is a sneak peak of what it will look like:

 

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Reading this I had the horrible idea that you'll get all sound (including top) from the 9 7010 amps and all sound including the bottom from the other amps. This is because Audyssey will setup according to what you have attached. If an Atmos sound is supposed to be at and the system knows you only have speakers at level top=0 it'll play them as best it can.

Here's what I guess you figured out. I'm sorry I couldn't stand the suspense of reading 72 posts. Plug the top center speakers into an amp (any amp) while you run Audyssey in the 7010 and plug bottom speakers to the other one while running it's setup.

HTH

Your setup is brilliant!
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 · (Edited)
Reading this I had the horrible idea that you'll get all sound (including top) from the 9 7010 amps and all sound including the bottom from the other amps. This is because Audyssey will setup according to what you have attached. If an Atmos sound is supposed to be at and the system knows you only have speakers at level top=0 it'll play them as best it can.

Here's what I guess you figured out. I'm sorry I couldn't stand the suspense of reading 72 posts. Plug the top center speakers into an amp (any amp) while you run Audyssey in the 7010 and plug bottom speakers to the other one while running it's setup.

HTH

Your setup is brilliant!
Take a look at post 5, it explains it all. There will be no duplicated sounds between the layers, both AVRs will blissfully think they have the full 11/9 speakers connected. Also I don't intend to run Audyssey on the SR6010 as it will mess up the PLII matrixing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
I have done a bit of progress over the past week such as terminating all the celing speaker cables with banana plug sockets so no more lose cables hanging out of the soffit.

After that I started to install the chicken wire underneath the soffit, it is amazing how sharp it can be once cut, someone could think I have been in a fight with a cat. However a few hundred staples later and it was in place. I had to tension it as much as possible since a bulge over 3/4" will be visible through the fabric. By installing it below the frames instead of the original plan of above them will mean another 2" of treatment will fit. The insulation rolls should hopefully show up before the weekend.

Here is where we are at now:





 

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Could 9.1.6 be integrated into a 2 row theater setup or would it be better to go with 9.1.4 instead?
 
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