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Treo SSI 18 build...possible DIY Conquest???

1698 Views 3 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  Ricci
I'm about to start on a DIY build for this 18" sub and I think that I've almost made up my mind as to what I want to do. This will be my first "real" build. I've done some car audio builds and a few haphazard bookshelf builds before, but nothing like this. I want this to turn out to be something I can be proud of that looks at-least decent. I want a box not a sonotube and I'm looking for a good compromise between HT and music performance. It will be used for 50/50 HT and music. The room that it will be placed in until I move is roughly 18x20x12 (4000cuft). The driver is rated at 1000wrms and xmax is 31mm. Here are the specs taken with a WFT3 with the dual 2ohm vc's in series...

RE 4.36

FS 19.51hz

VAS 8.571ft/242.7L

BL 22.73

Le 4.15mh

SPL 87.97

Mms 430.2g

Cms 0.15mm/N

n(0) 0.39%

Qms 4.302

Qes 0.445

Qts 0.403

I was originally going 4.5 - 6ft sealed because I don't have room for a huge 17cuft enclosure right now. Now I think that I'm going to split the difference and do roughly 13ft(370L), after bracing port displacement etc,tuned to 17hz with a slot port of 55" area and 36" length. When I model it in WinISD this looks pretty good to me. Plus this is about the biggest box I can go for right now and honestly I don't really think the sacrifice in the upper bass and larger cabinet required are really worth it for the little bit of content below 15hz. High output down to 15-16hz is fine for me. Basically it will be a similar but slightly bigger version of a Epik Conquest. Here is the proposed cabinet as of right now... Attachment 99486

Does this look good? Should I do 2 6" ports instead of the slot port? Should I be doing something different with this sub? Opinions please! I can provide more info if needed.
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I perfer round ports as opposed to slot ports because it minimizes surface area (what creates port noise) to port area. As for the box, if you don't want to tune lower, you don't have to. I like a 15-16hz tune mostly because it gives the driver a bit more protection from unloading. Honestly though, what's the difference between 16 and 17hz? If you want a 13ft box tuned to 17 hz, do it! It'll rock.
I'm currently waiting on a quote to build this thing from ED and one other place. I know that it will be hideously expensive, but if it's not too bad I may go this route. Mainly because I have no experience with finishing a cabinet and I want it to look at-least decent.

I think I've got everything laid out...

Attachment 99929
Attachment 99930

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A few other questions...

Should I use a plate amp(LT1300) or a pro amp? I kind of want to go with a plate amp just because it would be simpler and I won't have to do the fan mod on my amp.

Does anybody use the Neutrik connectors for connecting their subs?

My only problem with going with 2 6" or an 8 to 9" port is that I will have to bend them in the cabinet because I want the driver and ports on the same face and it just seems easier to go with a slot port. What simple options are there for bending 6" or larger ports?
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