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I just picked up three Silvers LCRs, in no small part due to your experience at the showroom. I'm going to match them with my 6 18" DIY subs. I am hoping my subs won't be too much for the Silvers. I figure if they are, I can always drop 2 or just dial them back to get them all balanced. I'll post back once I get the Triads.

I'm seeing this as an in house demo of the Silvers as I still wonder if Golds would be best for me. But I thought I'd give the Silvers a try first since I was able to get them like new, but used. I'm hopeful they might be perfect and I won't want to go bigger and instead spend my money to swap out my my Volt 6s all around my room for more Triad Silvers as surrounds.

I'll let you know how the subs play with the Silvers.

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That being said, I wouldn't bother with the sealed options. Well designed ported subs, if you can accomodate their large size, are my preference these days. Hands down more power and output on reserve is a useful thing.
Generalized statements such as the above are not always applicable. When I am assisting someone is room design/product selection, 90% of the time I recommend sealed subs - all of which are only available from on-line dealers: Funk, Seaton, JTR, etc and all of which are flat into single digits, and most of which are equal to or less money and better performance than any of the other possible subs that are purchased from B&M stores. There clearly are exceptions. I've only heard one ported sub that I loved but the port is tuned to 11Hz!!

That said, "preference" does play a role.

Each to his own!!
 

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Appreciate the insight. I think I've decided to do the same; get Gold LCRs for my front three and Silvers for the surrounds eventually. I'll see how things sound with just replacing my LCRs for now. Planning to call my dealer on Monday and get them ordered!
Beautiful theater, [email protected]!!
 

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Generalized statements such as the above are not always applicable. When I am assisting someone is room design/product selection, 90% of the time I recommend sealed subs - all of which are only available from on-line dealers: Funk, Seaton, JTR, etc and all of which are flat into single digits, and most of which are equal to or less money and better performance than any of the other possible subs that are purchased from B&M stores. There clearly are exceptions. I've only heard one ported sub that I loved but the port is tuned to 11Hz!!

That said, "preference" does play a role.

Each to his own!!
Fair enough. I was thinking about the sub 1k price point and getting the most bang for the buck.

But yes, different horses for different courses, and with a larger budget one could make different choices and achieve preferred results.
 

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I'm the guy with BRONZE LCR for my system.

(I actually had 3 GOLD LCR for a while but they were completely unnecessary for my room where I sit 8 feet from the speakers and the Bronze were much easier to position so that the tweeter are at ear height.)
That's good to hear! That's why I want to try Silvers first. Everything seems to point to those being perfect for my room where my first row is 10ft and second row is about 16ft with around 2500cuft of space.

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Prior to deciding on Bronze vs Silver vs Gold vs ??, what size is your room? And if you room is properly calibrated, your subs (not matter which you select) won't drown out the rest of your speakers.
Sorry, forgot to mention that. Finished dimensions should be around 15’10” x 21’6”


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That's good to hear! That's why I want to try Silvers first. Everything seems to point to those being perfect for my room where my first row is 10ft and second row is about 16ft with around 2500cuft of space.

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What is it that's making you want to move away from the 1099's...?
 

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That's a reasonable sized room even if you only have 8 foot ceilings. How close do you envision sitting to your screen?
I have 9ft ceilings that will probably be 8ft after drywall.

Seating distance will be about 12-13ft from the screen.


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What is it that's making you want to move away from the 1099's...?
Their high end is just a bit harsh to my ears. ARC has definitely helped dial them in, but I'd like to just see what the "Triad Sound" will bring and whether I like it better. I know they'll be a very different feel, so I'm just anxious to be able to A/B them. If I like the Triad tone, but feel I need more of it, I'll consider the Golds. But I really hope, and feel like, the Silvers are going to be perfect based upon what I'm hearing others say, Triad's specs, and how I like to listen to movies and music. So we'll see. If I like the 1099s better in the end, I won't be selling them and I'll just sell the Triads. Going to be fun!
 

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You'll definitely like the silky smoothness of the silk dome tweeters.
I was once a horn loaded tweeter guy myself for many years.
 
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I have 9ft ceilings that will probably be 8ft after drywall.

Seating distance will be about 12-13ft from the screen.
In addition to being contracted to calibrate a client's upcoming theater, he also allowed me to design his room and select his equipment. We used Triad all around with Gold LCRs up front. His room is smaller than yours. Absolutely stunning.

I sit ~13 feet from my screen. I currently use In-Room Silver Monitors as surrounds in my room. They are more capable than the Silver LCRs, but, of course, twice the price. Using them as surrounds, their output requirements are much less than if they were to be used as LCRs. Assuming I use a high enough crossover (and/or steeper crossover slope) they work fine but when I used 80Hz, they can "squawk" on occasion when I got a bit aggressive with the volume button. Given those two experience and my personal approach of ALWAYS insuring I (and my clients) have enough headroom in ALL speakers, I would recommend the Gold LCRs. Others may see this differently.
 

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I appreciate your insight too as I weigh out the decision of Silver vs Gold. So, from a purely technical standpoint, can you help me understand how much more "volume" the Gold LCRs can put out VS the Silver LCRs? According to the specs, their efficiency is 1db different, and their "peak output" is 5db more. How much does that translate to in actual volume to the ear, especially at 10-15' distances and especially since 114dB of the Silvers is way louder than I'd ever listen to them? I've run the numbers on the calculator referenced a few times on this thread and it doesn't appear to show much difference between the two either at my listening distances. As I also work through the decision of Silver vs Gold LCRs, I'm just trying to understand how all of those numbers translate into max volume differences, sound quality differences, but most importantly, "normal" listening levels near or below reference. Or is there a difference in the "quality" of the sound between the two given the 2way vs 3way design or cabinet size differences? Or, what other factors have to be considered, because to my basic understanding of those numbers, on paper they don't appear to be much different. And if they aren't a good, better, best type design between the lines, but rather designs for difference size spaces, help me understand why I should spend the extra $$ on Golds? I need an argument to try and sell my wife with if I get to that point. ;)

The other "concern" for me is that it appears that Gold fronts don't necessarily match up with the Silver surrounds as well and that the Silvers are more designed to match the Plats, at least the doc I've seen of the different lines seems to point that direction. Given budget constraints, I know I couldn't afford Golds all the way around, and I certainly can't afford, or need Plats up front. But Silvers all around are probably doable. And if they'd match best vs Golds up front and silvers around, then that would be another reason to stick with Silver LCRs wouldn't it? I would love to have a truly seamless speaker design in my space finally.

Again, just trying to understand as I await some Silver LCRs to arrive so I can finally hear the Triad sound and begin to assess their abilities in my room. Appreciate the insight!
 

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AudioGuy is right.

Adjusting the crossover to 100 Hz is always a good idea when you want higher volume levels than your speaker is normally rated for. As you know, by transferring more signal to the subs, it takes a significant load off of your speakers.
 

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I appreciate your insight too as I weigh out the decision of Silver vs Gold. So, from a purely technical standpoint, can you help me understand how much more "volume" the Gold LCRs can put out VS the Silver LCRs? According to the specs, their efficiency is 1db different, and their "peak output" is 5db more. How much does that translate to in actual volume to the ear, especially at 10-15' distances and especially since 114dB of the Silvers is way louder than I'd ever listen to them? I've run the numbers on the calculator referenced a few times on this thread and it doesn't appear to show much difference between the two either at my listening distances. As I also work through the decision of Silver vs Gold LCRs, I'm just trying to understand how all of those numbers translate into max volume differences, sound quality differences, but most importantly, "normal" listening levels near or below reference. Or is there a difference in the "quality" of the sound between the two given the 2way vs 3way design or cabinet size differences? Or, what other factors have to be considered, because to my basic understanding of those numbers, on paper they don't appear to be much different. And if they aren't a good, better, best type design between the lines, but rather designs for difference size spaces, help me understand why I should spend the extra $$ on Golds? I need an argument to try and sell my wife with if I get to that point. ;)

The other "concern" for me is that it appears that Gold fronts don't necessarily match up with the Silver surrounds as well and that the Silvers are more designed to match the Plats, at least the doc I've seen of the different lines seems to point that direction. Given budget constraints, I know I couldn't afford Golds all the way around, and I certainly can't afford, or need Plats up front. But Silvers all around are probably doable. And if they'd match best vs Golds up front and silvers around, then that would be another reason to stick with Silver LCRs wouldn't it? I would love to have a truly seamless speaker design in my space finally.

Again, just trying to understand as I await some Silver LCRs to arrive so I can finally hear the Triad sound and begin to assess their abilities in my room. Appreciate the insight!
You ask some great questions and are clearly doing your homework, and since Dawn has a lot more experience across ALL of the Triad products, I hope she will respond. I am aware of a number of folks who have Gold LCRs in front but do not use Golds all around, including the client I referenced above.

As for advertised specs vs real world application, it most certainly does not seem to apply to my in-Room Silvers. Given how close they are to my ears (maybe 8 feet) and that they are being used as surrounds, and not LCRs, they should never make any weird noises when playing - but they did until I changed the x-over. Craig John also uses the same speaker for his surrounds and he has had the same issue. If you choose to use the Silver LCRs up front and cross then over at 100Hz, you should be fine. Particularly if you are never inclined to get heavy fingered on the volume button. And you will love vocals on the Triads. That is what sold me.
 

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I appreciate your insight too as I weigh out the decision of Silver vs Gold. So, from a purely technical standpoint, can you help me understand how much more "volume" the Gold LCRs can put out VS the Silver LCRs? According to the specs, their efficiency is 1db different, and their "peak output" is 5db more. How much does that translate to in actual volume to the ear, especially at 10-15' distances and especially since 114dB of the Silvers is way louder than I'd ever listen to them? I've run the numbers on the calculator referenced a few times on this thread and it doesn't appear to show much difference between the two either at my listening distances. As I also work through the decision of Silver vs Gold LCRs, I'm just trying to understand how all of those numbers translate into max volume differences, sound quality differences, but most importantly, "normal" listening levels near or below reference. Or is there a difference in the "quality" of the sound between the two given the 2way vs 3way design or cabinet size differences? Or, what other factors have to be considered, because to my basic understanding of those numbers, on paper they don't appear to be much different. And if they aren't a good, better, best type design between the lines, but rather designs for difference size spaces, help me understand why I should spend the extra $$ on Golds? I need an argument to try and sell my wife with if I get to that point. ;)

The other "concern" for me is that it appears that Gold fronts don't necessarily match up with the Silver surrounds as well and that the Silvers are more designed to match the Plats, at least the doc I've seen of the different lines seems to point that direction. Given budget constraints, I know I couldn't afford Golds all the way around, and I certainly can't afford, or need Plats up front. But Silvers all around are probably doable. And if they'd match best vs Golds up front and silvers around, then that would be another reason to stick with Silver LCRs wouldn't it? I would love to have a truly seamless speaker design in my space finally.

Again, just trying to understand as I await some Silver LCRs to arrive so I can finally hear the Triad sound and begin to assess their abilities in my room. Appreciate the insight!
As most folks here know, I'm a big fan of using the same or similar driver sets for the ear-level layer in an immersive system.

You may also know that Triad does not specify their LCR systems (Bronze, Silver and Gold) into Good/Better/Best classifications. Rather, room size is what the folks at Triad are looking at most closely. So if you fall into the Silver Series size range my recommendation would be to consider an entire ear-level Silver system -- especially if cost is a limiting factor.
 

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AudioGuy is right.

Adjusting the crossover to 100 Hz is always a good idea when you want higher volume levels than your speaker is normally rated for. As you know, by transferring more signal to the subs, it takes a significant load off of your speakers.
But this really has a lot to do with how your fronts blend with your subs. Also how your subs play in your room. If your going to experiment with crossover points then you need to make some REW runs. Don't want a huge hole in that area.

Its better to have speakers that can handle your needs then look for ways to compensate for what you have.
 

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Its better to have speakers that can handle your needs then look for ways to compensate for what you have.
First of all, I would never make those kinds of decisions (crossover point, etc) without measurements (I use OmniMic) and as it relates to your comment above, not everyone has the funds to have the speaker that meets their needs, so they must make compromises.
 
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