[JHouse]

Maybe this is old hat for the experienced guys, but I just learned it the hard way, and it worked great!


On V/E go to the Gray Scale Bars (I used the vertical ones). If your R or G or B is too high or low compared to the others some of the bars won't look as gray as the others. They will have a tint to them. When you experiment with the color drive of Red, Blue and Green, you will see it get better or worse very easily. You will also see the entire scale get too warm(red) or cool(blue) or just plain green. You can pretty readily tell when they all look just gray, and not red or blue or green. Then go back to the color test pattern and test it with the blue film. Go back and forth until you pass out and you're done. Seriously, it made a tremendous improvement for me. Extremely realistic. Everything is now exactly the right color. Just remember, the gray scale really is just supposed to be gray. None of the bars are supposed to look a little purple. That's the sign of imbalance.


This is where I wound up on MY 38t (in MY yellowy room, on MY 1.3 gain screen): set the Green drive at 27 (default is 32) and set the Red drive to the default of 32, and drop the Blue drive to 31.


------------------

Joe

My current idea of the best value:

Boxlight 38t

Quadscan Elite

Panasonic RP91

RCA DTC-100

Da-Lite 100" 4:3 1.3gain

Studio Experience SE616's

and some other stuff.


[This message has been edited by JHouse (edited 08-23-2001).]

 

[JHouse]

Isn't anyone going to at least say "DUH!" or perhaps "No $#!+ Sherlock"?


------------------

Joe

My current idea of the best value:

Boxlight 38t

Quadscan Elite

Panasonic RP91

RCA DTC-100

Da-Lite 100" 4:3 1.3gain

Studio Experience SE616's

and some other stuff.

 

[Lebuck22]

Ok, No $#!+ Sherlock.


But seriously. I think to do this right you need a color analyzer, however I did see a couple of post here somewhere that someone used a certain white light bulb and Kodak grey card to calibrate the white and grey. You could do a search for it, if your interested.


Regards,

Lee.

 

[leckian]

Thanks Joe I am going to try all your setting recommendations.

Lenny

 

[JHouse]

Cool! I feel all better now.


------------------

Joe

My current idea of the best value:

Boxlight 38t

Quadscan Elite

Panasonic RP91

RCA DTC-100

Da-Lite 100" 4:3 1.3gain

Studio Experience SE616's

and some other stuff.

 

[JHouse]

What got me on this was when MrWiggles came over to compare his Plus DLP to my LP350 clone, when looking at the V/E gray scale pattern on his Plus we both noticed that one of his "gray" bars always looked real purple. When I saw a similar effect on the 38t, I tried to get rid of it using the color drives. When I did, and all the bars looked plain old gray, the picture looked much improved as to color balance and accuracy. All you have to do is have a good feel for what plain old gray looks like, as opposed to cool blue gray or warm beige gray. Split the difference and your at just gray.


------------------

Joe

My current idea of the best value:

Boxlight 38t

Quadscan Elite

Panasonic RP91

RCA DTC-100

Da-Lite 100" 4:3 1.3gain

Studio Experience SE616's

and some other stuff.

 

[Lebuck22]

Quote:

Originally posted by JHouse: All you have to do is have a good feel for what plain old gray looks like, as opposed to cool blue gray or warm beige gray. Split the difference and your at just gray.

That's why I think the poster I am referring to used a Kodak grey card and a white light bulb. So you know what white is and what grey is.


Regards,

Lee.

 

[CCLAY]

Being able to achieve good grey balance must vary greatly between projectors.


You would think that the DILAs would do well in this case but I've conceded to the fact that I'll have to wait until the Dilard Gamma Wizard releases to get that "just right" grey on my G11.


Having a second monitor on a VE card, I can compare pretty quickly my Pj to my 17" CRT monitor on colors, blacks, grey, etc. Pretty poor greys compared to the monitor. You don't notice it as much on the Pj until you have something immediate to compare to.


Using AVIA to set brightness, contrast and RGB gets me close but not close enough.


Chris

 

[Jim OD]

Quote:

Originally posted by JHouse: Maybe this is old hat for the experienced guys, but I just learned it the hard way, and it worked great! On V/E go to the Gray Scale Bars (I used the vertical ones). If your R or G or B is too high or low compared to the others some of the bars won't look as gray as the others. They will have a tint to them. When you experiment with the color drive of Red, Blue and Green, you will see it get better or worse very easily. You will also see the entire scale get too warm(red) or cool(blue) or just plain green. You can pretty readily tell when they all look just gray, and not red or blue or green. Then go back to the color test pattern and test it with the blue film. Go back and forth until you pass out and you're done. Seriously, it made a tremendous improvement for me. Extremely realistic. Everything is now exactly the right color. Just remember, the gray scale really is just supposed to be gray. None of the bars are supposed to look a little purple. That's the sign of imbalance. This is where I wound up on MY 38t (in MY yellowy room, on MY 1.3 gain screen): set the Green drive at 27 (default is 32) and set the Red drive to the default of 32, and drop the Blue drive to 31.

I really wish you had a LT150 and we would get this mess right. I have spent hours doing what you have and maybe more. After doing the AVIA bit like the Quadscan Elite I decided to forget AVIA. By the way, I'm still learning but AVIA was great with my LCD projector. So far I have found to accept the default from NEC with just a little bit of more contrast and that's it for the NEC LT150(White off - Can't tell much difference between Natural 1 and Natural 2 but will not more later there. The way I adjusted this picture is to go the the DTC-100 and get the HDTV Demo loop and see if I can improve it. It's a pass through on Quadscan Elite.(Leave at Default and touch UP contrast. Then I go to DVD YUB and touch up the default of B=16 (leave alone) Contrast=default of 128 and it can change up to 151. Sat=default of 128 up to 149. Hue=0 default leave alone up to 3. Now for S-Video for VHS and Hughes regular Sat RCVR B=16 HUE=0 to 6 SAT 128 up to 195

Contrast 128 up to 195. How do you like those apples?

To my eyes the HD pix is perfect and the others depend on the bandspread of the transmitted signal. If it is super compressed - I just soon not watch it and more and more of these channels are going by the wayside for me on DSS. I'm really dissappointed in Direct-TV for dragging their feet on HDTV and compressing bandwith to get more ABC-NBC-CBS-FOX-PBS repeated a thousand times at the expense of what they were there for to begin with. That's another subject but they are all related to a perfect picture and that's what we are all striving for. I have yet to hear from anyone with a LT150/Quadscan Elite or LT150/Quadscan have any input.