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Quote:
Originally posted by NLogN
It seems that I can't search too far in the past...so, would someone please repost the tuner part/chip nos.? There are two per tuner, right?


Also, I would assume that the chips are the same between Sony & RCA, no?


Network, maybe this info should be put into your FAQ?
There is one 48 pin tuner chip in each "can" (if yours has them). You can go to the chip manufacturers site and get 2 free sample chips. I'm at work and don't remember the number. I'll try to remember to post it tonight. In the meantime, the schematics (with parts list) are posted on other forums.


The Sony and RCA units are the same.


Some units don't have the cans, some do. Of those that do, some have a pop-off top and some don't.


I hope you have a steady hand. :)


Hope this helps,

kazak
 

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Hi,


Searching far into the past.


If you attempt further searches try selecting a more detailed search from the pull down menu. (Defaults to "Fast" search with limited results)


I know when I first joined in April 2002 you could do a search and get an extensive listing the first time... Eventually they changed the search engine and you really have to dig for old articles...


Good Luck,
 

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Hi,


You may not be able to save your old UTV recordings... but for those with a less then steady hand should consider DTV's Protection Plan...


DTV Receiver Replacements, etc. are offered for under $8 a month.
 

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Go to Dallas Semiconductors site to find the samples. You are looking for the Maxim MAX2104. It is the chip in the can.


There are several chips that make up the entire tuner but the one that I and others have replaced is the one in the can. It converts the L-band signals to baseband signals that get processed farther down the signal path.


It's not a whole lot of fun but it IS doable. If you want to try I will be happy to give you any hints I picked up doing it. There is at least one other person active here that has done it.


The one I replaced acts up on ocassion and I have to resolder. I will do things differently next time.


Good luck,

kazak
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by NLogN
Thanks 01!

Btw: I like your old pic better. :p
Lol! So did I. This pic reminds me of a real life Beavis!:D

BTW, don't use that Sumitomo EMExxxxU Series phosphorus-based molding compound:D

Really I think you might be on to something there.:eek:
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by NLogN
Kazak:


Edit: I just ordered a pair from DS. Btw, WTF?? is up with this? This was near the bottom of the 2104 page at DS!!
Huh, that's pretty interesting. I think the pertinent paragraph is this:


******

Maxim has identified one standard product that was assembled by subcontractors using the Sumitomo

EMExxxxU Series molding compound that has exhibited failures:The MAX2104 sold by LSI as the L64733. MAX2104 Sold as LSI L64733 :

Maxim manufactured the MAX2104 exclusively for LSI from November 1999 to July 2001.During this

time,the product was co-branded as the LSI L64733.The MAX2104/L64733 product with date codes

preceding 0145 contains the Sumitomo EMExxxxU Series molding compound.

******


I'll check the one chip I have left and see if it matches this description.


Later,

kazak
 

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Well...Well


Faulty chips.... Thanks Thomson

I guess you wouldn't care to recall my three fried UTV's!!


I phoned Dallas to see how their date code works, 0145 means 2001 45th week


My one UTV was 0004 and the other is 0007 ...2000 4th and 7th week.

I guess I gots me some duds.


David you can change your sig to "A happy UTV was built with quality parts."


BTW I am the other one from this forum (I'm sure there are others) who has changed the 2104... I got it working for about 5 mins. then it stopped...then some more fine tuned soldering...worked agian, then stopped. Have done this process a few times.


Conclusion ...I have some bad solder points that heat up, when the chip gets hot, and let go. After some re-soldering the points are attached again then let go.

These things are a ***** to solder by amateurs. Especially when you don't have the proper equipment (some ultra fine solder would be a start)


Conclusion 2...

these chips are resilient.. I expected it to be fried after the first time it went out...I've even done some sloppy live meter probing and the chip is still alive.


I guess they are good chip when built right.
 

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Hi,


If this checks out... sounds like a nice addition to the FAQ... UTVs with such and such chips may need extra attention...
 

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nlogn,

If you are interested in my saga and have not seen it, here it is:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...hreadid=276994


My new chips are 0310 also. The utv that I repaired (both tuners are dead right now) has the cans that do not have the pop off top so I cannot look at the date.


klassic,

Good work on the date code. I didn't think of that.


anyhoo, I hope it works out for you nlogn. Please keep us up to date.


kazak
 

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So if you were to add in all the factors that develop heat.... not raising UTV, UTV powered multiswitch, long cable runs and perhaps shutting the UTV down letting the chip cool then reheat ...that is a recipe for failure with a not up to QA chip.


It is surprising they posted that info


Too bad it wasn't as easy as open the top of the UTV and report the date of your chip. Then we could easily see a pattern.


I would love to know if there are tuner failures with a product date above 0145.


NLogN you just might have wont the AVS Forum Pulitzer prize with your discovery
 

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Can someone start a new thread with a poll to see what dates their tuner chips are that have failed.

I'm a meathead when it come to doing more than typing a response in a forum.


I'm just happy there is a spell check on this forum
 

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So, what did the guy charge to do it? How does the job look?

Can we assume it's working?


Just curious :)


kazak
 

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I had another crack at replacing my tuner chip and so far it has been up for 24 hours...

This is about the 5th time I have put trhe heat to it... pads have been lifting so I have to solder a small wire to the the next component.

Once again I say..wht a resilient chip... I had a solder bridge over +5v and ground and it is still ticking


They aren't the funnest things to solder in!
 

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Their swap deal is ridiculous.... give them one problem for another unit with a different problem..


Soldering wires is like a "sticky tape and bubblegum" fix. It's ok for the backyard Joe.

How would you like it if your still warrantied car's muffler was just wired back up and covered with muffler cement..


Oh well... it's just me against Corperate America.... ummm...I lose.


Glad I live in Canada where the gov. tells us what we can watch on TV. :rolleyes:

Better than Iraq I guess


Maybe Holland... mmmmmmm (drool) ... drugs, red light district and no stop signs... now were talkin'
 

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I just got another UTV the other day...

The metal cans are off both tuners (very cleanly done)


One chip is 0004 the other is 0335.

With out reading the date on the chip there was know way of telling it had been replaced.

Now why can't they just replace both when they come in?

The chips probably cost .50 and they are getting $150 for the exchange.


Well I guess I just answered that question myself....$$$ ...I suppose I would be liking another 150 when the next tuner chip fails if I were RCA

Especially when no one has enough balls to say ...WTF RCA/Klassic???!!!!

These are defective chips!!!
 

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Hi,


Talking of "Born on Date"... Anyone care to discuss/dig up RCA UTV model number/manufacture date info?


My RCA UTVs have various Model/SN number stickers (Some original others appear to have been "modified" and new stickers attached)


Sony UTVs have a month/year of manufacture sticker stamped on them...
 
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