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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All,

Thanks to everyone for suggestions and guidance - without the forum... I wouldn't be at the point I am now, which is way ahead from where I was a couple of months ago. BUT I am still feeling like a complete n00b in comparison to most folks on here.

I'm the midst of my first DIY with an iNuke6000DSP and Dual Dayton UM15-22 Subs with Parts-Express 3.0cuft flat packs.
All parts listed in my previous thread.

I am using these subs with my Denon AVR-X4100W with XT32 and Paradigm / Klipsch Speakers with the following setup:
AVR Settings: Dolby Atmos 5.2ch + 2 Height (2 Subwoofer)
Speakers Settings: Bass is set to LFE + Main @ 120Hz Crossover, with +12dB on Sub-1 and Sub-2.
Other speakers individually set Fronts (large, Paradigm) 60Hz -1.5/-2.5dB, Center (small, Paradigm) 100Hz -5/0dB, Surrounds (small, ceiling aimable, Klipsch) 80Hz -3.5/-3.0dB, Tops (small, ceiling aimable, Klipsch) 80Hz -2.0/-3.5dB
Cabling: RCA to 1/4"TR cables coming from Sub-1 and Sub-2 pre-outs on the AVR to the iNuke 6000DSP

The build has gone very well so far and I am now at the tuning stage and have a few questions... I haven't broken out REW and my UMIK-1 yet, as I am still solving some fundamentals; some questions and verifications below:

1) Configuration / Mode: I have this set as Dual Mono opposed to Stereo with separate Sub-1 and Sub-2 Pre-Outs from my Denon AVR-X4100W using Peavey Male RCA to Male 1/4" TR cables to the iNuke inputs. I did this so I can adjust Channel-A and Channel-B separately for limiter, PEQ, Filters, Delay and such... as the subs are in different parts of the room (one front right, one back left beside the couch).

2) Configuration / Power limiter / Channel Gain: I have it set at 1000W... I know the UM15-22's are 800W RMS/1600W MAX, but have heard they can handle a decent amount more in a 3.0cuft sealed enclosure. I haven't modeled in WinISD (no skills yet here) with the 3.0cuft flatpack. Is this adequate power? Should I go down to 800W? Go up to 1200W? I just don't want to exceed Xmax at lower frequencies. Also wondering if I should set any gain on the main configuration screen (screenshots attached for Config, Filter/Crossover, and Parametric EQ).

3) Filter/Crossovers/PEQ - Sub 20Hz Frequencies Allow: I've set 20Hz High Pass Butterworth at 12db on both channels, with matched HS12 @ 20Hz -4.0dB on the PEQ to allow for frequencies below 20Hz as per LTD 02's original guide. Not sure if this is adequate for this driver in this enclosure or not? As I said... I don't want to exceed xmax at lower frequencies, but haven't modeled in WinISD. I think the driver is rated down to 15Hz, so just not sure if I am doing the right thing here.
Filter/Crossovers/PEQ - Boost below 24Hz: I've set a PEQ @ 24Hz Q 1.4, 6.0 dB on both channels to boost the lower frequencies in order to compensate for being in a smaller, sealed enclosure and not a ported box. I have plenty of power to spare on the iNuke 6000DSP with only 2x UM15-22's... so I figure why not. I have no idea though, if this PEQ is adequate for this enclosure and sub, or if I will exceed xmax with the power I've allocated in the limiter at lower frequencies.

4) Sub Noise: I have a decent amount of hum/buzz noise coming from just the subs. I've got it much lower now by lowering the gain from full and increasing gain on the Denon AVR-X4100W Sub-1/Sub-2 to 12dB.
I now have front iNuke gains between 1/2 and 3/4 with what seems to be adequate output on the subs and no clipping (that I can see) even going up to 80 volume on the AVR and making my wife's ears almost bleed.
However, anything I can do to reduce this... I would love to do. The higher the iNuke front knob gain... the more buzz/hum I get.
If I mute the AVR, it is still there. If I unplug the 1/4" from the iNuke, the noise goes away completely.
I think it might be the RCA to 1/4" TR signal cables, but am insure. Would you recommend switching to these RCA to XLR instead?
I think I may try swapping cables before moving on to a ground loop... I'd prefer to not run a "cheater plug" and running ground cables everywhere (cheater plugs are not legal in Canada). I did try unplugging my DVR and removing the coax from it with no resolve, but that's the limited amount of troubleshooting I've tried.

5) XT32: The system sounds great after I ran the XT32 SW-Level Matching (I left my previous settings on other speakers). I had the mic in our couch listening position and was able to achieve 75dB matching (what XT32 wants / shows as "green") on both Sub-1 and Sub-2 using the gains on the front of the iNuke (no main gain settings adjusted in the software). Both knobs are between 1/2 and 3/4.

6) iNuke Mods - Fans: The fan noise is brutal. I had read that the newer iNuke6000DSP's potentially had addressed the noisy fans. This is not the case. It's a large, open concept living space that is open to the kitchen and front door and dining room. The fans are easily heard at the front door (if you don't have music on). So I think I will be replacing the fans with the Noctua NF-R8 Redux-1800 but am open to other suggestions if there are newer or better alternatives (I'm partial to Noctua as I use them for all of my computer builds). The iNuke will be in a very well ventilated cabinet (using AC Infinity Fans as intake/exhaust), so shouldn't have cooling issues after replacing the fans for noise level.
iNuke Mods - Remote Turn-on Relay: I never thought of this before buying (I went with iNuke6000DSP over the Crown XLS 2502 because it was cheaper, had more power and had the DSP control. Adding a MiniDSP HD to the Crown 2502 made it more than 2x the cost in Canada). But the Crown would've had a wonderful 12V remote turn-on wire :). Any suggestions for the most modern way to do this? I have a Harmony remote, but no smart power strips (although my wife wouldn't want to press a power strip button every time she wanted to turn on music).
Everything is enclosed in cabinets (no glass). So I don't want to have to press the button on the front of the iNuke every time I turn on my Denon receiver. Can I actually add a simple 12V relay and use the trigger from the back of my Denon (but keep the power button on the iNuke pressed all of the time)? Any guidance on what to buy or do would be appreciated. It will go a long way to making this permanent.

7) Tuning with UMIK-1 and REW: I will get to this point, but am not yet at the point of tuning room cancellations, modes, phase, or lul's in specific frequency range responses. I have the UMIK-1. I don't know how to use REW yet. The system is already a HUGE improvement over my previous Paradigm 10" ported 100W sub.
Any suggestions on well-written REW guides to follow that will give me full top-to-bottom all speakers + sub room tuning guidance that I can run through over a rainy (or snowy) day in the near future would be great.

I will post some final pictures of the setup once completed. The plan is to encase both flatpacks in barnboard wood, mitre the corners nicely, and stick the front edges a couple of inches forward... putting some black speaker cloth over the whole front.
Any guidance on how many inches this cloth should be in front of the physical woofer would be great. Not sure if I just look at xmax and use that measurement.
Any alternatives that would be really nice grilles for the UM15-22 would be welcomed as well.

Thanks everyone in advance for any help or guidance you can provide - you are all amazing!
 

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Just gonna throw my thoughts out there...

1. Are you sure you want to be set to LFE+Main? Generally, it is preferable to have speakers set to Small and set that to LFE.
2. Having your sub trims set to +12dB is sure to make your amp clip. Generally, you want those well into the negatives.
3. Are your subs equidistant from the MLP? You may want to power-match the two subs, rather than level-match them, so that one isn't reaching its limit before the other.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just gonna throw my thoughts out there...

1. Are you sure you want to be set to LFE+Main? Generally, it is preferable to have speakers set to Small and set that to LFE.
2. Having your sub trims set to +12dB is sure to make your amp clip. Generally, you want those well into the negatives.
3. Are your subs equidistant from the MLP? You may want to power-match the two subs, rather than level-match them, so that one isn't reaching its limit before the other.
Thanks aron7awol!

1. I set to LFE+Main as a LOT of what we do is listen to music (Sonos Connect Bridge sending from the rest of the house Sonos setup to an input on the Denon AVR-X4300W) and using all channels at once. There is unfortunately a lack of bass when doing this if set to LFE only, because most of the music sources do not have a dedicated LFE channel built into them. The front mains go to 60Hz and are towers, with many woofers... but are all smaller in nature (I believe 5 1/4"). Any suggestions you can make would be welcomed... but the sound they have now with LFE + Main is much preferred to what I previously ran for a year or two without the main's added in. Basically the main issue being that anything without a Dolby / DTS track just didn't engage the subwoofer.

2. I didn't see any clipping on the front of the iNuke (of in software), or notice and distortion on the subs when I cranked the AVR up to 80+ (80+% off the way)... and it was LOUD. Is the suggestion to bring that down to 0dB, or into the negative... but adjust the volume knob's on the iNuke? If so... I just need some help solving the buzz/humm when those are cranked past 3/4. But definitely willing to try anything. Maybe I am looking in the wrong spots (the blinking yellow/red lights on the front of the amp for each channel never get above the first light, as well as the software never shows anything (the meter on the side never gets even close to 0 at the top on either the outputs or inputs... even when very loud).

3. Sub-1 is 15ft away and Sub-2 is right beside the MLP (couch). It's a good point to power-match... but is there a particular way I go about doing that? I thought it was more about SPL / level of dB should be equal at the MLP, but I've never done anything like this before. I was just going based on what the XT32 Denon testing recommended. Any guidance on doing this better would be appreciated.
 

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Thanks aron7awol!

1. I set to LFE+Main as a LOT of what we do is listen to music (Sonos Connect Bridge sending from the rest of the house Sonos setup to an input on the Denon AVR-X4300W) and using all channels at once. There is unfortunately a lack of bass when doing this if set to LFE only, because most of the music sources do not have a dedicated LFE channel built into them. The front mains go to 60Hz and are towers, with many woofers... but are all smaller in nature (I believe 5 1/4"). Any suggestions you can make would be welcomed... but the sound they have now with LFE + Main is much preferred to what I previously ran for a year or two without the main's added in. Basically the main issue being that anything without a Dolby / DTS track just didn't engage the subwoofer.

2. I didn't see any clipping on the front of the iNuke (of in software), or notice and distortion on the subs when I cranked the AVR up to 80+ (80+% off the way)... and it was LOUD. Is the suggestion to bring that down to 0dB, or into the negative... but adjust the volume knob's on the iNuke? If so... I just need some help solving the buzz/humm when those are cranked past 3/4. But definitely willing to try anything. Maybe I am looking in the wrong spots (the blinking yellow/red lights on the front of the amp for each channel never get above the first light, as well as the software never shows anything (the meter on the side never gets even close to 0 at the top on either the outputs or inputs... even when very loud).

3. Sub-1 is 15ft away and Sub-2 is right beside the MLP (couch). It's a good point to power-match... but is there a particular way I go about doing that? I thought it was more about SPL / level of dB should be equal at the MLP, but I've never done anything like this before. I was just going based on what the XT32 Denon testing recommended. Any guidance on doing this better would be appreciated.
Do you have your speakers set to Large in your AVR? You want them set to Small, then the AVR will cross them over with your sub at the specified crossover point (you should check what this is set to also), and the sub will play the bass despite there being no LFE track. The downside to setting them to Large is you will be asking them to play below what they are capable of, which will muddy up their sound. If you set them to Small and use a crossover of 80-100Hz, I think you'll notice a nice boost in clarity from the mains, as well as cleaner bass since it's coming from the much more capable sub.

You won't see AVR clipping on the iNuke, or anywhere really. Yes, you would lower the sub trims, and increase the front knobs on the iNuke to make up for it.

You don't need to power-match rather than level-match. I only brought that up because if you are going to be pushing the subs to their limits, that's a case where power-matching them might be preferable. Just be aware that if you are level-matched, the farfield sub will always be working a lot harder than your nearfield sub. One is about 4m further away than the other, so that farfield sub will getting a LOT more power. SPL decreases 6dB with every doubling in distance, so that farfield sub will be getting something like 50x as much power as the nearfield if they are level-matched. This is fine if that's what you want, it's just something to be aware of.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do you have your speakers set to Large in your AVR? You want them set to Small, then the AVR will cross them over with your sub at the specified crossover point (you should check what this is set to also), and the sub will play the bass despite there being no LFE track. The downside to setting them to Large is you will be asking them to play below what they are capable of, which will muddy up their sound. If you set them to Small and use a crossover of 80-100Hz, I think you'll notice a nice boost in clarity from the mains, as well as cleaner bass since it's coming from the much more capable sub.

You won't see AVR clipping on the iNuke, or anywhere really. Yes, you would lower the sub trims, and increase the front knobs on the iNuke to make up for it.

You don't need to power-match rather than level-match. I only brought that up because if you are going to be pushing the subs to their limits, that's a case where power-matching them might be preferable. Just be aware that if you are level-matched, the farfield sub will always be working a lot harder than your nearfield sub. One is about 4m further away than the other, so that farfield sub will getting a LOT more power. SPL decreases 6dB with every doubling in distance, so that farfield sub will be getting something like 50x as much power as the nearfield if they are level-matched. This is fine if that's what you want, it's just something to be aware of.

Very good points.

For some reason I had no idea that setting a speaker to "small" passes anything below the crossover to the sub, but large does not. It says it right on the bass crossover page for LFE, I totally missed it. I have made that adjustment setting my Fronts to "small" (and upped their crossover from 60Hz to 80Hz, even though the Paradigm site says they are good down to 56Hz or so), so thank you very much for that.

I will play with the sub trims a bit more (I already lowered below 10dB)... maybe it's possible that using RCA to XLR instead of my existing RCA to 1/4" TR will stop the hum a little bit.
Any suggestions if it does not (besides the usual ground-loop stuff)? I have it all plugged into a power conditioner / APC Battery Backup UPS unit.

I will look into the power matching piece. So just to be clear... you are saying for the bass side of the equation to NOT match the level at the MLP (couch)? Just match the same Sub-1/Sub-2 gain on the AVR, and use the same Channel-A/Channel-B gain on the iNuke... regardless how much of a dB loss there is from both on the MLP?

Anyone have guidance of suggestions on the iNuke DSP settings I've got, fans, mode, power/limiter, relay, cabling, speaker noise, REW?
Firstly it's about safety - just making sure if I watch a movie tonight with some large amounts of lower bass frequencies that the cone isn't going to go "pop" and fly out the living room window.
Secondly is about making sure I have optimal settings put in.

Thanks!
 

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Did you also set Bass to LFE only, and then observe the boost in clarity from your mains and cleaner bass now that it's coming only from the subs?

How big is your room? Without knowing what your room layout is, or the best locations for subs in that room, I'm just going to throw out the idea that you may be better off with both subs farfield, taking advantage of boundary reinforcement with both to achieve the overall level of bass you're looking for in the room, and only then adding nearfield subs for their specific effects.

With small sealed subs like yours, I don't think you'll need a HPF at all. It's worth modeling in WinISD to confirm.

I replaced my iNuke fans with Noctuas (FLX model) and the difference is enormous, so I highly recommend you do that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Did you also set Bass to LFE only, and then observe the boost in clarity from your mains and cleaner bass now that it's coming only from the subs?

How big is your room? Without knowing what your room layout is, or the best locations for subs in that room, I'm just going to throw out the idea that you may be better off with both subs farfield, taking advantage of boundary reinforcement with both to achieve the overall level of bass you're looking for in the room, and only then adding nearfield subs for their specific effects.

With small sealed subs like yours, I don't think you'll need a HPF at all. It's worth modeling in WinISD to confirm.

I replaced my iNuke fans with Noctuas (FLX model) and the difference is enormous, so I highly recommend you do that.
Thanks! I will look at those Noctua FLX's.

What cables did you use between your Denon AVR and the iNuke?
Do you have any buzzing or line noise?
What is your sub-1 and sub-2 gain set at?
Are you using a relay to turn on the amp?

Unfortunately, I have to work with where I can put the subs, as they will be integrated as table's beside furniture... so I'm stuck with that side. Either way, they sound great as is in existing placement... it's just the tweaking EQ, fan noise, buzzing/hum and relay that are the major hurdles.

I will have to look at WinISD, I am not experienced and it seems quite detailed to learn. If anyone else has modelled these already, I would love to know the final settings you've used for HPF, PEQ, Limiters and such.
 

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Thanks! I will look at those Noctua FLX's.

What cables did you use between your Denon AVR and the iNuke?
Do you have any buzzing or line noise?
What is your sub-1 and sub-2 gain set at?
Are you using a relay to turn on the amp?

Unfortunately, I have to work with where I can put the subs, as they will be integrated as table's beside furniture... so I'm stuck with that side. Either way, they sound great as is in existing placement... it's just the tweaking EQ, fan noise, buzzing/hum and relay that are the major hurdles.

I will have to look at WinISD, I am not experienced and it seems quite detailed to learn. If anyone else has modelled these already, I would love to know the final settings you've used for HPF, PEQ, Limiters and such.
I am using RCA to 1/4" adapters. I do have some hum, but my subs are both 11' away from me so I don't hear it.

My sub trim in my AVR is set to -6. The gain knobs on my iNuke are very high. I don't remember exactly how high but maybe 6 clicks down from all the way up?

I am not using a relay, but I've read of people using smart strips and relays to power their iNukes. Just be aware that you might have the dreaded power down thump depending of which approach you take.

As far as EQ, you really need to get up and running with REW and your UMIK so you can take baseline measurements. None of us can offer much EQ help without some REW sweeps.

WinISD will give you a lot of info as far as the limiter and HPF. I just did a quick model and it looks like 600-700W will push the driver to xmax in 3 cubes, so you might want to set your limiter to -4.5dB for now and then disable the HPF.

Did you set phase to 180 in the iNuke? If not, you'll have to do that and then re-run Audyssey. The iNuke DSP has a bug that reverses the phase, so you need to set it to 180 to put it back to normal. This will likely be a big improvement where your mains and subs crossover.
 

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3) Filter/Crossovers/PEQ - Sub 20Hz Frequencies Allow: I've set 20Hz High Pass Butterworth at 12db on both channels, with matched HS12 @ 20Hz -4.0dB on the PEQ to allow for frequencies below 20Hz as per LTD 02's original guide. Not sure if this is adequate for this driver in this enclosure or not? As I said... I don't want to exceed xmax at lower frequencies, but haven't modeled in WinISD. I think the driver is rated down to 15Hz, so just not sure if I am doing the right thing here.

I could be wrong but I think LTD 02 settings are for ported subs. I don't use the crossover in the iNuke I let my receiver handle that. I'm still learning so I'm sure others will chime in.
 

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I use RCA to XLR cables on my Inuke 6000 DSP to Denon 3300.I had the dreaded hum(ground loop?) when I first hooked up the sub.

I read on here somewhere about cable boxes sometimes causing this.I unplugged mine and it went away.

I ended up running a co-ax cable though a line conditioner.Took care of that problem.

Definitely,do the fan mod, it makes huge difference!There are a few threads on here about how to and which fans were used.

Some just leave the Inuke on all the time.Some use "master/slave" powerstrips to power their amp.That could work with your remote.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I am using RCA to 1/4" adapters. I do have some hum, but my subs are both 11' away from me so I don't hear it.

My sub trim in my AVR is set to -6. The gain knobs on my iNuke are very high. I don't remember exactly how high but maybe 6 clicks down from all the way up?

I am not using a relay, but I've read of people using smart strips and relays to power their iNukes. Just be aware that you might have the dreaded power down thump depending of which approach you take.

As far as EQ, you really need to get up and running with REW and your UMIK so you can take baseline measurements. None of us can offer much EQ help without some REW sweeps.

WinISD will give you a lot of info as far as the limiter and HPF. I just did a quick model and it looks like 600-700W will push the driver to xmax in 3 cubes, so you might want to set your limiter to -4.5dB for now and then disable the HPF.

Did you set phase to 180 in the iNuke? If not, you'll have to do that and then re-run Audyssey. The iNuke DSP has a bug that reverses the phase, so you need to set it to 180 to put it back to normal. This will likely be a big improvement where your mains and subs crossover.
Thanks again!

I've ordered some 10ft RCA to XLR cables and will verify the pins 1 and 3 are tied together... just to try and reduce the hum.

I've also ordered some Noctua NF-A8 FLX Fans and will replace the stock iNuke fans.

As for relay... I added/integrated my Denon receiver with my Smartthings Hub and then used a smart plug with the iNuke 6000DSP. I set an automation that when the Denon turns on, the smart plug turns on.
Needless to say, I will be looking into a relay instead of this... I scared the %&^* out of my wife and dogs when the smart plug turned off with the iNuke button still set to on.
Unfortunately, the G7L-2A-TUBJ-CB-DC12 relay mentioned in the build threads... just isn't easily available in Canada, so I will have to figure out what I am going to do here.
Hoping that the iNuke receiver will be quiet enough to run all of the time with its new fans, until I figure out a relay option.

For limiter / PEQ... thanks for doing a quick model in WinISD. So you think I should set this thing to 600-700W? That seems very low, it's lower than RMS (and I've heard that the sub can handle gobs of power in a smaller sealed box like this).

I didn't know an HPF was on (I'm new to the iNuke). I must've forgotten to click each of the filters to turn them from orange to grey on the PEQ screen. Is that something WinISD said as well in some way (sorry, again... new to that piece).

I will work on doing some drags in REW in the near future. Any suggestions on what .wav files to run, or a guide on how to do it? I found the following excellent guide... but it doesn't really get into what files to use, the volumes to put the AVR at and all that jazz.
Also this thread has lots of details... but it was never really resolved.

I did not set my phase to 180 on the iNuke... as I've seen XT32 detect incorrect phase previously and didn't think that I had an issue. I will experiment with that as well.

The room is a 19' W x 31.5' L combined living room / kitchen space, with the couch / MLP sitting pretty much in the middle of the two, sub-2 sitting beside the couch and sub-1 in the front right.

Thanks again for the guidance! It's helping and I am getting closer... keep it coming everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
3) Filter/Crossovers/PEQ - Sub 20Hz Frequencies Allow: I've set 20Hz High Pass Butterworth at 12db on both channels, with matched HS12 @ 20Hz -4.0dB on the PEQ to allow for frequencies below 20Hz as per LTD 02's original guide. Not sure if this is adequate for this driver in this enclosure or not? As I said... I don't want to exceed xmax at lower frequencies, but haven't modeled in WinISD. I think the driver is rated down to 15Hz, so just not sure if I am doing the right thing here.

I could be wrong but I think LTD 02 settings are for ported subs. I don't use the crossover in the iNuke I let my receiver handle that. I'm still learning so I'm sure others will chime in.
I'm not sure, maybe @LTD02 is able to chime in about the original "how-extend-high-pass-filter-below-20hz-dcx2496" thread.

I thought that the settings were general for usage with an iNuke with a DSP to allow the amp to not have such a rolloff at 20Hz... ported vs sealed shouldn't matter as the UM15-22 drivers always has the same response frequency range (15Hz - 1000Hz).

It's just that if you put a UM15-22 in a ported box tuned to a particular frequency (say 20Hz), you get a boost around the tuned frequency of the box that comes out of the port, which gives you a "boomy" effect that is preferred by many around 20Hz for HT applications. That also comes with a trade-off of having to put in an HPF to prevent damage to the sub (as there is no "backpressure" (not sure of the term) in a ported enclosure, like there is in a sealed enclosure).

I tried to mimic a ported enclosure's boomy bottom-end using my sealed enclosure to a by boosting the lower range, as I should have plenty of power headroom with an iNuke6000DSP and 2x UM15-22's.
I believe it was the "inuke-dsp-linkwitz-transform" that I followed, which is also written by @LTD02. I am just not sure how much of it applies to my UM15-22 in a 3.0cuft sealed enclosure, lol. Or if I need any HPF/LPF filters to protect the woofer.

Apologies - being in the n00b category, I'm not confident enough to say yay or nay to my existing assumptions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
How about we get some pictures of the subwoofers going?! :D
Absolutely - attaching a couple shots of the space and subs... let me know what you think :D.

The goal within 2 months is a barn-board wall backing behind the TV.
108" of enclosed white cabinets below it, with a maple table top to the cabinets and bookcases going to the roof on both sides of the TV with crown moulding above it.

All cabinets cooled with AC Infinity Intake / Exhaust (in addition to the T9 I have), pulling from side kickplate, exhausting out the top of the tabletop cabinet.

Fireplace replaced with a wider, but shorter more modern looking fireplace, with a barnboard or maple mantle and white shiplap surrounding it.

Subwoofers will be clad in barn-board (mitred 45 degree at corners), with white or black speaker grill cloth going over the front where the speakers are. Likely a matching maple wood top on the subwoofer boxes, so that they tie in to the barn-board TV wall and cabinet table-top.

It's been fun so far, but I have to keep the wife happiness factor up... but thinking I've struck a good balance with this design.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I use RCA to XLR cables on my Inuke 6000 DSP to Denon 3300.I had the dreaded hum(ground loop?) when I first hooked up the sub.

I read on here somewhere about cable boxes sometimes causing this.I unplugged mine and it went away.

I ended up running a co-ax cable though a line conditioner.Took care of that problem.

Definitely,do the fan mod, it makes huge difference!There are a few threads on here about how to and which fans were used.

Some just leave the Inuke on all the time.Some use "master/slave" powerstrips to power their amp.That could work with your remote.
Thanks markg35!

I will see how the cables help or hinder the issue when they get here from Amazon on Tuesday... and will do the fan replacement quickly as well.

The hum isn't bad... but the trade-off at this point is having to keep the pre-out sub-1 and sub-2 coming from the AVR at a 8-12dB rating, so that I can keep the iNuke6000DSP knobs between 1/2 and 3/4 in order to keep the hum in-audible.

Any guidance on what those "meters" in software should read would be great (I hear I should be trying to get as close to 0 as possible... but can only do that by cranking the knobs, which causes audible hum within the whole room).

It seems very decent right now... I get amazing output from the subs (VERY LOUD), with no input/output clipping I can see in the software, or LED's on the iNuke. However - I haven't checked with REW yet.

A bit scared to start to be honest... as the whole thing has been a rabbit hole without REW... I think it will be weeks, months or YEARS of tinkering once I start, lol.

As for the cable box... I totally unhooked by DVR / cable box with no resolve. So I don't think it's the cable line causing it, but will keep it in mind if the new RCA to XLR cables don't work.
 

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For limiter / PEQ... thanks for doing a quick model in WinISD. So you think I should set this thing to 600-700W? That seems very low, it's lower than RMS (and I've heard that the sub can handle gobs of power in a smaller sealed box like this).

I did not set my phase to 180 on the iNuke... as I've seen XT32 detect incorrect phase previously and didn't think that I had an issue. I will experiment with that as well.
Set the limiter to -4.5, play the most demanding content you have at the highest volumes you'll ever listen at, and see if you even hit the limiter. If you do, then you can slowly increase it and monitor the subs for bad sounds. But before you do you any of this, you need to get your sub trims in your AVR much lower. If you play loud, demanding content with it set as high as you have it, it will clip. And if you don't have the limiter set low enough and your AVR sends that hot clipped signal to the iNuke, you could do some irreversible damage.

I thought that the settings were general for usage with an iNuke with a DSP to allow the amp to not have such a rolloff at 20Hz... ported vs sealed shouldn't matter as the UM15-22 drivers always has the same response frequency range (15Hz - 1000Hz).

It's just that if you put a UM15-22 in a ported box tuned to a particular frequency (say 20Hz), you get a boost around the tuned frequency of the box that comes out of the port, which gives you a "boomy" effect that is preferred by many around 20Hz for HT applications. That also comes with a trade-off of having to put in an HPF to prevent damage to the sub (as there is no "backpressure" (not sure of the term) in a ported enclosure, like there is in a sealed enclosure).

I tried to mimic a ported enclosure's boomy bottom-end using my sealed enclosure to a by boosting the lower range, as I should have plenty of power headroom with an iNuke6000DSP and 2x UM15-22's.
I believe it was the "inuke-dsp-linkwitz-transform" that I followed, which is also written by @LTD02. I am just not sure how much of it applies to my UM15-22 in a 3.0cuft sealed enclosure, lol. Or if I need any HPF/LPF filters to protect the woofer.
Please don't be offended, but you are armed with just enough of an understanding to be dangerous. My advice is to be conservative until you study up and learn the relationship between power and excursion. You have plenty of power, yes, but that doesn't mean you have excursion headroom.

The "How to extend a HPF" thread is about extending the HPF below the 20Hz limit of the iNuke. This is intended for use with ported subs. You don't need a HPF with your sealed subs and you don't need the settings to extend the HPF either.

It seems very decent right now... I get amazing output from the subs (VERY LOUD), with no input/output clipping I can see in the software, or LED's on the iNuke. However - I haven't checked with REW yet.
Again, you won't see AVR clipping anywhere. You might hear it, or you might smell it if you fry your drivers.
 

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Thanks again!

I've ordered some 10ft RCA to XLR cables and will verify the pins 1 and 3 are tied together... just to try and reduce the hum.

I've also ordered some Noctua NF-A8 FLX Fans and will replace the stock iNuke fans.

As for relay... I added/integrated my Denon receiver with my Smartthings Hub and then used a smart plug with the iNuke 6000DSP. I set an automation that when the Denon turns on, the smart plug turns on.
Needless to say, I will be looking into a relay instead of this... I scared the %&^* out of my wife and dogs when the smart plug turned off with the iNuke button still set to on.
Unfortunately, the G7L-2A-TUBJ-CB-DC12 relay mentioned in the build threads... just isn't easily available in Canada, so I will have to figure out what I am going to do here.
Hoping that the iNuke receiver will be quiet enough to run all of the time with its new fans, until I figure out a relay option.

For limiter / PEQ... thanks for doing a quick model in WinISD. So you think I should set this thing to 600-700W? That seems very low, it's lower than RMS (and I've heard that the sub can handle gobs of power in a smaller sealed box like this).

I didn't know an HPF was on (I'm new to the iNuke). I must've forgotten to click each of the filters to turn them from orange to grey on the PEQ screen. Is that something WinISD said as well in some way (sorry, again... new to that piece).

I will work on doing some drags in REW in the near future. Any suggestions on what .wav files to run, or a guide on how to do it? I found the following excellent guide... but it doesn't really get into what files to use, the volumes to put the AVR at and all that jazz.
Also this thread has lots of details... but it was never really resolved.

I did not set my phase to 180 on the iNuke... as I've seen XT32 detect incorrect phase previously and didn't think that I had an issue. I will experiment with that as well.

The room is a 19' W x 31.5' L combined living room / kitchen space, with the couch / MLP sitting pretty much in the middle of the two, sub-2 sitting beside the couch and sub-1 in the front right.

Thanks again for the guidance! It's helping and I am getting closer... keep it coming everyone.


"I did not set my phase to 180 on the iNuke... as I've seen XT32 detect incorrect phase previously and didn't think that I had an issue. I will experiment with that as well."

If you are using other subs or external amps that are hooked up using RCA to RCA your iNuke will be out of Phase and Audy will not detect this. This applies with the internal amps inside a receiver. Set the phase to 180 and rerun Audy.
 

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dg6464 - Nice looking place! I see you have two furry friends too - I bet they are good helpers!

Nice sectional sofa too. I like that configuration. Any idea where you got it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Set the limiter to -4.5, play the most demanding content you have at the highest volumes you'll ever listen at, and see if you even hit the limiter. If you do, then you can slowly increase it and monitor the subs for bad sounds. But before you do you any of this, you need to get your sub trims in your AVR much lower. If you play loud, demanding content with it set as high as you have it, it will clip. And if you don't have the limiter set low enough and your AVR sends that hot clipped signal to the iNuke, you could do some irreversible damage.


Please don't be offended, but you are armed with just enough of an understanding to be dangerous. My advice is to be conservative until you study up and learn the relationship between power and excursion. You have plenty of power, yes, but that doesn't mean you have excursion headroom.

The "How to extend a HPF" thread is about extending the HPF below the 20Hz limit of the iNuke. This is intended for use with ported subs. You don't need a HPF with your sealed subs and you don't need the settings to extend the HPF either.


Again, you won't see AVR clipping anywhere. You might hear it, or you might smell it if you fry your drivers.
I'm not offended, still learning for sure - again, just making sure I am not going to damage anything. I will set the limiter to -4.5 and try to get the AVR dB lowered.

1) So I can remove the Configuration screen HPF that is +12dB 20Hz Butterworth?
Just so I am clear... that is to protect a PORTED enclosure from going below what frequency, exactly? The subs minimum response frequency (ie: 15Hz in the case of the UM15-22)?
What exactly protects a sub in a sealed enclosure from blowing up/over-excursion (if anything besides power)?
You previously mentioned that 600-700W will push the UM15-22 to xmax in a 3cuft sealed enclosure... is that at a particular frequency? If so... shouldn't I put an HPF on to be safe?

2) Is there a particular .wav or audio source I should use to test the above (maybe one of the REW test files)? I am sure there is a measurable/predictable way of doing it without a random song or movie.

3) As for a boost to lower frequencies to mimic a ported enclosure... how would I go about doing that on the DSP? Am I accomplishing that with PEQ Filter #2 @ 24Hz +6dB 1.4Q?

4) I will have to get the AVR trim set down to 0dB, but have no way of doing that at the moment because the hum / buzz is so bad. I will have to wait until I get the new cables to start troubleshooting. Then will lower to 0dB and raise the iNuke up until just below the hum being audible in the room.

5) For REW... I will have to wait until the iNuke fan noise is gone likely for measurements, as it's very noticeable and will be picked up by the UMIK-1 likely - unless you feel otherwise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
dg6464 - Nice looking place! I see you have two furry friends too - I bet they are good helpers!

Nice sectional sofa too. I like that configuration. Any idea where you got it?
Thanks!

It was at a mall (a place called Chelsea Furniture), but I wouldn't go back there again. It's deteriorated after 1.5 years of using it... the new one is on order from La-Z-Boy :). One of the new "Duo" couches that is a recliner, but looks like a normal couch (ie: sits off of the ground slightly).

The furry friends are fine, but lazy helpers and bark at the TV when animals come on.
 
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