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I'm guessing this would not work. Was contemplating AT screen but then remembered the freakin tv would be behind it and cause reflection.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Indy /forum/post/18195203


I'm guessing this would not work. Was contemplating AT screen but then remembered the freakin tv would be behind it and cause reflection.

Some AT screens come with an acoustically transparent black backing to solve the issue of light spill through the screen.


You could also very easily place something light absorptive over the TV when using the screen... simple and inexpensive!





...Glenn
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Baumann /forum/post/18199456


Some AT screens come with an acoustically transparent black backing to solve the issue of light spill through the screen.


You could also very easily place something light absorptive over the TV when using the screen... simple and inexpensive!





...Glenn

Hmmm did not know that some come with black backing, thanks!
 

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I have a Screen Research Clearpix 2 with a separate black backing. There is a CRT TV a few inches behind the screen. After almost a year when I was seated a bit off center I noticed a reflection in one scene of an Anime DVD.


Being naturally paranoid I bought a black bath towel which I drop over the TV screen and it is held in place by going over the top of the TV with the center channel speaker sitting on top of it.


The left and right speakers are glossy black towers a few inches behind the screen. I have never noticed a reflection from them. The same is true of a glass door on an equipment cabinet that extends about a foot into the center bottom of the screen.


The projector is level with the top of the screen.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Indy /forum/post/18195203


I'm guessing this would not work. Was contemplating AT screen but then remembered the freakin tv would be behind it and cause reflection.

I think Elite's AcousticPro1080 has a black backing, too, or at least it was optional. But make sure you get their 1080 rated material (read on).


I'm looking to do the exact same thing, as I want my L/C/R in-walls behind the screen. I want to put my Center just above the plasma (plasma is eye level when seated), but where the Center channel would be about the center of the drop down screen when extended. I also want a 2.35:1 CH mode since I have a 16' room width and will get a Panny4000. Will use manual AT masking on the sides when watching 16:9 content. For daytime/casual viewing, I have a 50" plasma and want to be able to drop down the 2.35 screen in front of it. I'm learning a few things that make this very expensive 1) AT screens require tensioning to work correctly, and there are no manual pull-down ATs that I can find 2) Some of the economical AT screens out there are designed only for 720 (Elite has some very inexpensive ones), and apparently aren't designed for 1080 due to the hole spacing 3) very few make 2.35 motorized AT screens and they are $$$. I thought maybe I'd just get the next bigger yet less costly 16:9 screen, then extend it not quite fully to effectively reveal 2.35:1 at my desired size, but Elite warned me that this could cause fabric waves because the tensioning won't be working correctly if the screen is not fully extended.


Achieving both (1) and (2) above seems to start at $2000 for a 130" 16:9 AT-1080 rated screen. And if you want 2.35:1 1080-AT motorized, I can't find any for less than Draper's $5k offerings! Although that appears to include some sweet secondary motorization built-in for the masking. But I simply don't want to spend $5k on my screen.


Therefore, I was thinking either...

a) Achieve AT and dropdown, but give up CH 2.35 (watch 2.35 letterboxed above and below). My 100" diagonal 16:9 at 11' viewing distance is already pretty close to the max pixel spacing. 2.35:1 Blu-Rays being morphed or zoomed to a CH screen may not look good if the 820 lines of actual BluRay content is feeding a height usually served by 1080 lines, so maybe I'm too close for CH anyway. 16:9 1080-AT motorized screen cost = approx $2000.


b) Achieve CH 2.35 and dropdown screen, but give up AT. widen my front speakers, put the center channel low under the plasma, and used a non-AT drop down screen for about $500. Better image quality too without the AT, although I have a pretty good ambient light control.


c) put the plasma in FRONT of a FIXED AT screen, which in turn is in front of my in-wall L/C/R. Then use a tv lift to LOWER the TV. A quality lift mechanism alone is about $1500 from www.tvlift.com for 46"+ tv, plus you have to build a custom cabinet or enclosure around it. The nice thing about building it is that you can make it only about 8" shallow and not lose too much floor space. THat's about the right depth for low level built-in DVD shelves to flank the tv cabinet, too. Btw, the TVLift.com phone rep was very helpful and even pointed out some competing solutions.



So anyway, this has been my analysis project for the week, and I probably should have just gotten more work done (I do high rate hourly work) and bought the Draper! Let us know what you decide to do, as it's becoming a more and more common challenge now that people are combining panel TV and 1080 projection in the same rooms, and also more are going toward 2.35:1.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmagee /forum/post/18206588


...if you want 2.35:1 1080-AT motorized, I can't find any for less than Draper's $5k offerings! ...

Ok, SeymourAV has exactly this at the $2k price for a 125" diagonal / 115" width. Thanks Scott! Still have to buy my projector and mark out the screen size.


My seating distance is 11', and I have 20/20 vision... do I understand correctly that I'm far enough to not see perfs on bright scenes?
 

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Jmagee,


We have a 100" wide version form 9.5 ft and once in a great while can see the weave on really bright scrnes. I invited another AVS'r over and asked him to find any flaws in my system. We watched for about 15 to 20 minutes and he said he didn't notice anythin wrong.

I told him what I saw and we watched some more and he said it was a non-issue.


I can give you his user name thru PM if you'd like.


Scott
 

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Cool, thanks Scott. I'll send you a diagram of my front wall to see whether you recommend 110 or 115 due to my existing in-wall speaker spacing and where the velvet may obstruct the speaker. In the meantime, can you tell me how far away from the plane of my wall/grilles you recommend the screen be? It's drywall with a thin Samsung 46" LED LCD protruding 1.3". I was thinking of having the drop down only about 2" off the drywall (0.7" off the LCD face), but wondering if there's some acoustic reason to put more gap in there?
 

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Just curious but if you had a regular screen would the entire screen area be a reflection? I thought the benefit of an AT screen over a regular screen was that you could treat the wall behind the screen?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksharp4 /forum/post/18220907


Just curious but if you had a regular screen would the entire screen area be a reflection? I thought the benefit of an AT screen over a regular screen was that you could treat the wall behind the screen?

Ok, that's a very good point. The SeymourAV website says about their retractable AT screen...

- Popularly used in front of standard TVs.

- Black backing layer, standard.


So I trust that it's ok in front of a glossy screen.


The AT screen benefit is to position speakers behind the screen, especially the center. I'll place it just above the TV, and inverted so the tweeter is low and about 6 inches above the tweeters of the L/R front speakers, which would be behind the extreme left and right ends the AT screen. Here's my wall plan with the 46" TV in the black box... (screen looks high, but it's only a 7' ceiling)
 
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