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Hi,

I recently purchased a home and am attempting to mount a 65" Samsung over the fireplace. The problem I'm having is that studs are 12" left of center and 4" right of center. I'm having trouble finding a full-motion mount with a base plate that will accommodate the narrow spacing between center of mount and 4" beam. I have attached a picture. The previous owner just off centered his TV. This is not an option. I am aware of bracing but I'd rather a much more aesthetic mount.

Any mounts out there that would work?
 

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You shouldn't have any issue, an articulating, cantilever mount that has a back plate spanning 20" should allow the actual bracket assembly to be moved to center of the wall cavity? Just don't use a single stud mount?
 

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I will prob hear some mumbling about this...But I had the same problem for my 65" Vizio M series last year. Searched and measured and was about to spend $200+ on a fancy articulating flush mount. Then I saw the Harbor Freight flat mount... $35? Seriously? What's the catch? Needless to say I was skeptical. But looking closer I found: multiple holes across top and bottom cross braces. It has hooks that hang the TV on the top brace so you can slide it for final centering. Good quality steel orks great. I was able to hit 2 studs and used drywall anchors on the ends for added insurance. It's rated for up to 70"/170 lbs. The only negative is with the 65" you need a long screwdriver to tighten the bottom mounts. I leave mine slighty loose so I can swing the bottom out to access the cables. $35 was a deal. I think I just saw it for $24! Sometimes simple is best. Cheers
CC
 

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What mount are you looking at that does not have lots of slots on the wall mount to accommodate whatever stud placement is necessary? That's a pretty universal design requirement for TV mounts.

The $25 Harbor Freight wall mount is only adjustable for tilt.
https://www.harborfreight.com/large-tilt-flat-panel-tv-mount-61807.html

They do have a full motion version for $50. It has a fair number of slots on the back plate to accommodate different stud placement. If they don't line up exactly where you need them, drill new holes. (That goes for any brand.)
https://www.harborfreight.com/37-in-to-80-in-full-motion-tv-wall-mount-63155.html
 

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There are several mounts that don't have slots along the entire wall mount section , I know because I just installed 3 in a friends house , and all 3 had the same problem the OP has . Just drill as others have suggested , make sure to use washers .
 

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an overkill solution but you can have it your way

a load plate across 3 studs, about 34"- 36" long and maybe 10-12" wide, double layer of 3/" ply,
you'll do critical measuring for attachment of the mount for the vertical centering you want , even with a little hokey-pokey left or right.
paint to match, maybe need to countersink some heads under the mount

i had some 6/4 ths x10" oak so I used that. Monoprice mount rated to 300#

layout carefully and pre-drill for lag bolts and run them about 3/8" short of full bite, just good sound basic craftemanship

that mount originally with a SHARP 80".
now sporting a Samsung 82" MU8000
 

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an overkill solution but you can have it your way

a load plate across 3 studs, about 34"- 36" long and maybe 10-12" wide, double layer of 3/" ply,
you'll do critical measuring for attachment of the mount for the vertical centering you want , even with a little hokey-pokey left or right.
paint to match, maybe need to countersink some heads under the mount

i had some 6/4 ths x10" oak so I used that. Monoprice mount rated to 300#

layout carefully and pre-drill for lag bolts and run them about 3/8" short of full bite, just good sound basic craftemanship

that mount originally with a SHARP 80".
now sporting a Samsung 82" MU8000

This kind of support is definitely moving in the right direction. The wooden board spans multiple studs and carries the weight of the mount across to the studs. However, I see what looks like a very big flaw. The wood looks like it isn't tall enough for any of the screws at the top of the mount to be attached! The mount acts like a big lever, pushing down at the bottom (where the bolts are) and pulling away at the top (where it appears that there are no bolts). Yikes!

Also, what kind of bolts mount between the metal mount and the wood board. If they are just lag bolts, they are only biting into the wood an inch and could easily pull out. They really should be threaded bolts with nuts and large washers on the back side.

I would not feel safe with that on my wall!

 

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@michael1997 @bulls @DaveClement
ok -

2 THINGS -

the picture is upside down, it happens
that row of lags holding the mount on is at the top . it's not going anywhere, the TV weighs in at a tad over 100#,
from monoprice, a measly $100+, rated for 300#

it went up December 2014 and given the need for the planned 1/4" clearance of the LCR for allowing being able to experiment with near perfect vertical and horizontal alignment of the horns .
DERO ZEFECTS!
it's still 1/4" clearance . . ..

(insert product endorsement here) The DIYSoundGroup Fusion 15's for LR and the CC , an 88 Special, pushed by a mere 125 w/c ATI amp- you could want that

You are now returned to the regularly scheduled program.

given the combined thickness of the metal plate and a force distributing washer, for the plate of 1 1/2" solid oak , I used 1 1/2" lag bolts, pilot holes and pre-fitted

for doubled up 3/4" ply or solid wood pieces, I'd do the same.

bolts thru the back - sure as long as there is no conflict wrt setting lags into the middle stud : then it seems I'd have to attach the load plate with the mount already aboard - that can be done, needs extra hands and a larger or "taller" plate per your design, just make a good plan

i advise using paper or cardboard templates in the planning stages, visualize clearances

I have 6 lags holding the load plate on 3 studs, given the thickness of the plate and my older plaster walls I probably used 5 1/2" x 5/16ths, notice they are recessed , with a large washer , and carefully worked into the pilot holes , lubed with WD-40 squirted into the hole in the stud and cranked in except for about the last 3/8th inch. lubing the pilot hole is a good way to keep a snug bite but not too dry and gnarly-
you DON'T want to snap a bolt when you have no way to extract it. -

ask me how I know.

that's my current front sound stage , with the 82" 4K Sammy MU8000.

now get busy . .
 

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