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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
High guys, quick question:

I have a 3 yr old Klipsch Sub-12, sitting to the right of my display and really do like it. I've seen a very good deal on some Energy ESW-C8 240w 8's. For the price, Id buy two and have one on each side of the display.

Energy specs:

System Type Bass reflex with down-firing port

Frequency Response 36Hz-180Hz

Amplifier Power Output 240 Watts dynamic, 60 Watts continuous

Woofer 8-inch (20 cm) Injection molded cone with Ribbed Elliptical Surround

Variable Low Pass Filter 40Hz-150Hz

Variable Phase Control 0°, 180°

Power Mode Switch Off / Auto / On

Inputs L + R Line in/Sub in, speaker level in

Overall Dimensions HxWxD (including feet and grille)

12.7 x 10.5 x 12.3 inches

32.2 x 40 x 31.2 cm

Weight 16 lbs (7.3 kg)

Max Driver Excursion 97dB @ 30Hz, ground plane, 1m

Finishes Black ash cabinet with high gloss black baffle trim

Klipsch specs:

AMPLIFIER: BASH(r) digital hybrid

AMPLIFIER POWER: FTC Rated Power: 300 watts continuous @ 1% THD, Dynamic Power: 650 watts


DEPTH: 19.9 (50.5cm) D

DRIVE COMPONENTS: 12" (30.5cm) fiber-composite cone, down-firing woofer

ENCLOSURE TYPE: Bass-reflex via rear-firing port


FEATURES: Volume, Lowpass, Phase, Auto Power

FINISHES: Black vinyl


HEIGHT: 18 (45.7cm) H

INPUTS: L/R line-level RCA jacks, L/R high level speaker binding posts

MAXIMUM ACOUSTIC OUTPUT: 117dB @ 30Hz 1/8 space, 1m

OUTPUTS: L/R High level speaker binding posts (passthru)

PHASE: Switchable 0-180 degrees

VOLTAGE: 110/120 VAC 60Hz

WEIGHT: 40 lbs. (18.2kg)

WIDTH: 15 (38.1cm) W

Also the Klipsch fires down, where the Energy fires front.


2,559 Posts
The Klipsch driver has over twice the radiating area as one Energy (113 versus 50 square inches. A valid comparison assuming equal piston length).

The Klipsch also has 5x the continuous watts in its amp.

Still, there's something to be said for multiple subs...but not for aesthetic reasons of having them match flanking your display like good soldiers, but rather so they can be placed in the best locations in the room to cancel out room modal behavior so that your frequency response is smoother in the room (like one front, one rear). I think if doing that you'd want subs that were at worst 3db down below what the one larger sub you might consider.

There's also the "buy the best you can afford now, and buy another one later," method, or "wait and save up to buy a better sub after a few months plan."

The latter perhaps best, because people usually have too little subwoofage.
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