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Discussion Starter #1
I'm on the UXL 18 group buy for 2 subs. I plan to either do curved enclosures similar to dtsdig's awesome subs, or using sonotube to do canon looking enclosures. Being I'm on the second group and it will be awhile.... starting on a friends UM15. Once this one is done, I will start on mine. Hopefully the UXLs will be close to being delivered at that time.
I have no access to a cnc so everything will be hand cut. I have a router but am not using it. Someday!!! For the driver holes, I used a Rotozip with a modified circle cutter to be able to do bigger holes. The rest of the pieces are cut using a cordless skillsaw and clamping down a level to use as a guide for the saw. The cuts come out about as straight as I can possible do with my tools.
I'm using nothing but 1" MDF for the enclosure. The braces are 1" as well.
I did pick up a little Ryobi compact router to use a roundover bit in. Plan to do a 1/8" roundover to just about all the edges. The baffle will be veneered in cherry and the rest of the enclosure will be covered with Duratex.
Keep in mind the tools I'm using and the effort and labor to do it without the right tools!!! haha Someday I will ;)





How I start a good project!!!









My custom Rotozip circle jig. Believe me, 1" mdf with a Rotozip is pushing it!!! I used to use 1.25" mdf but it was a nightmare so back to 1".
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Hey, it worked!!!!












Using T-nuts but didn't want the threads to be an air leak. So these will be glued down over the T-nuts. They will lock the Tnuts in place and separate the mounting hardware from the airspace inside. The bracing will be glued to these as well. Those hole are only about a 1/4" deep for the screws to run past the T-nuts.



 

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Discussion Starter #3
Now for the bracing.














 
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It fits! Need to get back some airspace so will cut windows in the bracing.











Bracing being glued up.








 
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So that was 3 weekends worth of work. Well, a little here and there over the three weekends. I get out to the garage when I can to make progress. Doing it all by hand is a chore!
Hoping to have the enclosure going together today.
 

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Nice work. DIY is known for crazy bracing and subs :). I use a little less bracing and I use 3/4" MDF but have never had any issues that I have noticed. I used 1" one for a ported square Kicker build for my mini truck back in my young days.............whew that thing was a beast lol.




ETA: I'm going to end up putting some of those UM18" in place of my SI subs up front and moving the SI to behind the seats. Those things just look so awesome!
 

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Awesome job so far!
Since you're not flush mounting, I think that I would opt for a jigsaw in lieu of using the rotozip for the driver cutout. Sheetrock is bad enough using that thing, 1" mdf must be grueling to say the least!!
John
 

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Great job so far! The bracing is overkill but that will be one solid box. So much work windowing all that bracing...have another Guinness for me!


Side note: Where do you buy 1" MDF? Would love to get my hands on some for my dual UXL-18 builds (I'm also in on Round 2 of the GroupBuy). Current plan is to double-up on 3/4" MDF for all panels, but with 1" MDF I could just double up the baffle and leave the rest of the box w/a single layer of 1".
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I get the 1" from Hughes Hardwoods in Rancho Cordova Ca. They carry 1/4" up to 1 1/4".
I use 1" simply because it makes the math that much easier and is strong enough to be single wall all over.
Yes, I think I went overkill on the bracing!!! If I was to do it again, I would only do two side ribs, not the three I did. Would make getting in there to glue and seal that much easier. That's alright, I told him it will be a beast. haha
And yes, the rotozip sure needs time to get through the 1". Yet I did the two circle cutouts and all the windows in the bracing with it and only used two bits. The circle jig I rigged up cut the holes as near perfect as I could have hoped for so all in all it can do the job.




As far as todays progress, Got it all glued up. Was a real biaaaaaatch. A lot tougher getting things lined up when glue is involved. What made the job tougher than it should have been was me cutting the side panels without some "extra on them. I needed them to hang off the ends to be sanded flush with the top and bottom. Without a belt sander, I didn't want too much hanging off to sand flush as it sucks trying to do with a palm sander. So I made them just oversized enough to hang off by a bee's stinger. That way I would not have much to sand down. Yet, having the extra meat would have solved my problem. That extra to cover for error. Either way, the top is fine, the bottom won't be perfect. Who cares as it won't be seen. But lesson learned. Better to have too much than not enough!
 

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Yeah, getting things all lined up and STAYING all lined up is a whole lot more difficult when glue is involved! Clamps, jigs, braces, etc are all your friend, here. It sure slows things down but it's the best way I've found to make sure things stay lined up. That, and not drinking during construction....not that I have done that...this week...haven't built anything this week....:eek:



BTW, you did a great job with the Rotozip! A lot cleaner that you can get with a jigsaw, that's for sure. I like your homemade circle cutter too; it gets the job done.


Shoot some more pics! You're building a cool box...needs moar pics!


Side note: I found 1" MDF locally. The same place I buy my Baltic Birch at carries it...should've checked there first. Getting it cut down will be interesting. I can barely manhandle a 3/4" sheet by myself (bad back). Not sure how I'll manage 1".
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You should try handling a sheet of 1.25" mdf!!!
This time around as you can see in the first few photos, did all my cuts right in the bed of my truck. I worry more about dinging up the edges so just cut it down before trying to handle it. I will keep taking pics as I start to sand it down and finish/veneer it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Made a little progress today. Box was sanded down, baffle glued on, and recess for the speakon connecter completed. Will need to sand down the baffle hangover but that will be it until I get a few things. One, some type of spackle or filler for the seams. They are nice but don't want to risk them showing through the duratex. Something I can spread over the seams and sand perfectly smooth.
Also need to find some Gel Contact Cement. Looks like the way to go for installing the cherry veneer to the baffle.
Once the veneer is on, I'm going to do a 1/4" roundover on all edges. Hoping it doesn't tear up the veneer. My plan is to cover the box with Duratex and roll it over the roundover to the edge of the veneer. Fingers crossed.











 

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"1" MDF with nuclear-blast resistant bracing"


LOL. Yeah, it's pretty solid! The battery in my scale is dead so can't weigh it yet. I'm guessing it will be just over 100lbs when finished and loaded. Much better than the last box I made for the 15" I've been using the last 8 years. That enclosure is over 200lbs. Stupid heavy. I used 1.25" mdf for that one and double and triple walled the entire enclosure. I learned my lesson and went single wall with bracing and doubled up the baffle on this one. Plenty stout but still movable without help.
 
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