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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is my first subwoofer build and I decided to just go all out with my first attempt. My inspiration and basic outline for the design was a martysub. I wanted to use slightly different dimensions because of my room shape, so I went with a longer and thinner box. It measures out to 21"w x 23"h x 50"L. That works out to roughly 10cf internally after bracing and the driver. It's tuned to 16 hz.

I'm just about finished at this point. All I need to do is install the driver and fire it up! I'm using an inuke1000dsp to power it. Of course I will be using bridge mode to get all the power through one output. I'm hoping this amp will make enough power for the ultimax. But considering that ported designs are more efficient than sealed, my feeling is that it will provide enough power. I have a huge room that's open to the rest of the house, so I need all the sub I can get. Check out the pics and let me know what you think!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Driver installed and tested. This thing is a beast and started to actually open my plantation shutters from playing cloverfield and ironman. I'm extremely happy with the build, and I'm sure there will be more subs to come in the future. Btw, I love the inuke's eq that's available to tweak on a PC. It really helped fill out the bottom end for movies. For those wondering whether or not the nu1000 has enough juice for the ultimax 15, I can assure you it does. I was able to push it to crazy levels of volume that I would never use while watching something.

Time to get back to some movie watching!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
What does the rest of your setup consist of? Which AVR are you using and what are your speakers?
I'm using a Yamaha Rx-V571 and Klipsch RC52 Center channel, RF15 mains and RB10 surrounds. I also have two Dayton Sub1200's. The Daytons have done an excellent job for only costing a combined $250. The new Ultimax is definitely the star, considering how modest the rest of my system is.
 

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Nice :)


15Hz should do nicely! Good to hear that the 'lowly' iNuke1000 is punching nicely too, compared to all the massive builds on here lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Nice :)


15Hz should do nicely! Good to hear that the 'lowly' iNuke1000 is punching nicely too, compared to all the massive builds on here lol
I know. It's easy to get scared into over buying and over building just because you follow these threads and hear that 2000 watts to a single sub is just barely enough to satisfy. It's a bit subjective to say the least!
 

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well, maybe you could all this one the MARYsub... :)


...where did the "T" go?


the "T" was lost when you castrated it with the LR4 HP @20hz.


green is with no filter.
black is with LR4 HP @20hz (4 is the order of the filter, which is 6db per, so 24db/oct)
magenta is with a little EQ added back in. alternatively you could use a shelf filter to push the high pass down to around 16hz, but you might feel more comfortable with this one:


Parametric EQ: f=20hz, Q=1.40, gain= +3db





that driver's xmax is around 22mm, Klippel confirmed, so it should have even a little bit more than that as potential. in model, the 1000 amp pushes the driver to just past xmax in your enclosure, suggesting that it should be find with no limiter set. the 1000 watts number isn't really the number. that is a screwball voltage peak figure. the real number is something like 700 watts or so.


btw, if you want to know how to push the high pass filter under 20hz:


http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...tend-high-pass-filter-below-20hz-dcx2496.html


also...great build!


lots of "likes" for you. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
well, maybe you could all this one the MARYsub... :)


...where did the "T" go?


the "T" was lost when you castrated it with the LR4 HP @20hz.


green is with no filter.
black is with LR4 HP @20hz (4 is the order of the filter, which is 6db per, so 24db/oct)
magenta is with a little EQ added back in. alternatively you could use a shelf filter to push the high pass down to around 16hz, but you might feel more comfortable with this one:


Parametric EQ: f=20hz, Q=1.40, gain= +3db





that driver's xmax is around 22mm, Klippel confirmed, so it should have even a little bit more than that as potential. in model, the 1000 amp pushes the driver to just past xmax in your enclosure, suggesting that it should be find with no limiter set. the 1000 watts number isn't really the number. that is a screwball voltage peak figure. the real number is something like 700 watts or so.


btw, if you want to know how to push the high pass filter under 20hz:


http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...tend-high-pass-filter-below-20hz-dcx2496.html


also...great build!


lots of "likes" for you. :)

You're definitely right about the MARY part! I didn't realize the sub 25hz performance would be effected so much by a HPF at 20hz. Thanks so much for the info! You truly are doing a service out there with your MAMMOTH number of posts! I believe I did hear some noise from the sub the first time I tested it with Cloverfield. I'm not familiar with the different "bad" sounds that subs make when overextended, but I could have sworn it wasn't something coming from the movie soundtrack. I guess I was trying to avoid that again if possible. And I really appreciate the link to the work around. I might try that when playing sub busters like Cloverfield again!
 
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