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Discussion Starter #1
I'm wrapping up my flat pack build and I'm thinking I don't want to use beveled baffle piece on the front. I can't imagine this will cause any issues as far as fit or rigidity, but I wanted to get opinions. Is it just for looks if you're painting your box?

I'm going to be veneering the box and that bevel is going to cause problems. I'm also building a magnetic grill so I'm not worried that the woofer won't sit as cleanly without the baffle piece as it will be covered.
 

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No issues not using the outer baffle from that kit. Too little meat for screws to grab to have any structural issues, and all the bracing connects to the inner baffle.

If you think you might remove/replace the driver numerous times, you may want to glue some scrap pieces of wood to the backside of the inner baffle where the screws will be.
 

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That baffle is 1.5" thick isn't it? No problems replacing it, I'd double-up on MDF for it though.

I think I saw someone here with veneered sides and the stock baffle with round-over. I agree it'd be a pain though.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I thought I'd be fine.

The outer baffle is 3/4", but stacked on top of the other piece of MDF you are at 1.5". Based on the calculator it looks like I'll need about an inch of space for woofer movement at full excursion. I think I may just build a router jig to make another outer baffle without the round over then add my frame/fabric for the grill on top of that.

I'll also dig around a bit deeper to see if I can find other folks who have veneered these boxes.

I appreciate the replies.
 

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I thought I'd be fine.

The outer baffle is 3/4", but stacked on top of the other piece of MDF you are at 1.5". Based on the calculator it looks like I'll need about an inch of space for woofer movement at full excursion. I think I may just build a router jig to make another outer baffle without the round over then add my frame/fabric for the grill on top of that.

I'll also dig around a bit deeper to see if I can find other folks who have veneered these boxes.

I appreciate the replies.
I've done some veneer work before and I would not want to try to veneer over a roundover like that. MDF is cheap, and building a quick circle cutting jig for a router or even buying one from a place like Rockler would be worth it to improve your veneer results with sharp corners.
 

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Found this post on this forum with a picture.

veneer pic
That shows the rounded piece in question above painted, with the rest of the box with square corners veneered. I personally don't like that look, but it's a good solution if a person doesn't have the tools to cut a new front piece without the roundover.
 

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You're not going to be able to wrap veneer around those roundovers without splitting it. And if you could, how would you handle the corner seams?

I too used the veneer/paint (Duratex) method. It's not the look for everyone but I like it (same treatment on my Fusion-8s). Veneered up to the front edge of the outer baffle, then rounded over the edges. Some explanation in the build threads in my sig.

Creating a new outer baffle with squared edges, or simply not using the outer baffle from the kit is the way to go if one wishes to veneer the entire cab.

3046984
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the replies everyone. And thanks for the pictures, it's very helpful.

I'm leaning towards just making a new front baffle piece. Thinking about this, I shouldn't even need a circle cutting jig but I can make a quick one if I need to. Or see if I still have one laying around that I've made in the past. Since I already have the old baffle as a template I should be able to get away with using a flush cut router bit with a guide bearing.

I've been woodworking for years but have limited hands on time with MDF or veneer. I have vinyl wrapped hundreds of things but that's quite a bit different than veneering. I could easily vinyl wrap that round over, but veneer seems like a nightmare.
 

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I've been woodworking for years but have limited hands on time with MDF or veneer. I have vinyl wrapped hundreds of things but that's quite a bit different than veneering. I could easily vinyl wrap that round over, but veneer seems like a nightmare.
I don't have any experience dealing with vinyl but since you do, aren't there vinyl wraps that would give the same look you are after with veneer? Seems like a no-brainer if so...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I don't have any experience dealing with vinyl but since you do, aren't there vinyl wraps that would give the same look you are after with veneer? Seems like a no-brainer if so...
There would be significantly more prep work involved if I use vinyl. It's super thin so the surface has to be perfect. It also doesn't stick to mdf well so I'd have to seal the box prior to applying vinyl.

I did just find some thicker PVC simulated woodgrain that folks use on cabinets. I ordered that to see what it's like. I'm also considering wrapping it with the same fabric I used to do the front wall of my theater as well as the acoustic panels so the boxes kind of disappear.

Gonna try a couple of options to build the frame for the grill and decide on the baffle from there.
 

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You're not going to be able to wrap veneer around those roundovers without splitting it. And if you could, how would you handle the corner seams?

I too used the veneer/paint (Duratex) method. It's not the look for everyone but I like it (same treatment on my Fusion-8s). Veneered up to the front edge of the outer baffle, then rounded over the edges. Some explanation in the build threads in my sig.

Creating a new outer baffle with squared edges, or simply not using the outer baffle from the kit is the way to go if one wishes to veneer the entire cab.

View attachment 3046984
That is some darn nice looking veneer! Nice job.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok everyone, I know this is a dumb question for anybody who has spent any time in the DIY speaker world, but I'm new to this and I'm having a hard time figuring it out.

I need about 26mm of space for my grill based on the xmech specs I can find online. But where do I measure that 26mm from? From the very highest point of the woofer foam I'm assuming, but want to be sure.

I just want to make sure I'm getting the clearance I need without going way over.
 

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Ok everyone, I know this is a dumb question for anybody who has spent any time in the DIY speaker world, but I'm new to this and I'm having a hard time figuring it out.

I need about 26mm of space for my grill based on the xmech specs I can find online. But where do I measure that 26mm from? From the very highest point of the woofer foam I'm assuming, but want to be sure.

I just want to make sure I'm getting the clearance I need without going way over.
Yes, from peak of the surround. IIRC measured xmax was actually in the 28mm range, past that damage started.
 

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Thank you!
Do you happen to know what this translates to from the surface the sub mounts to? 28mm from the peak of the surround to grille for excursion, but I'm wondering what I need to add from peak of surround to mounting surface to get the overall mounting surface to grille dimension.
 

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Do you happen to know what this translates to from the surface the sub mounts to? 28mm from the peak of the surround to grille for excursion, but I'm wondering what I need to add from peak of surround to mounting surface to get the overall mounting surface to grille dimension.
Ummm, 28mm plus the thickness of the frame? Should be easy to measure.
 

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Ummm, 28mm plus the thickness of the frame? Should be easy to measure.
I don't have the sub to measure. I'm trying to determine if I can fit one of these in a cabinet in my living room without building a custom box and this dimension is not shown on the Parts Express website for the sub.
 
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