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149 Posts
I try not to fib, LOL!With a Qts of .69 that's not surprising. I always considered the UM the minimum viable budget option, but $140 for an 18, if it works for you--great. That's true to your handle.![]()
I try not to fib, LOL!With a Qts of .69 that's not surprising. I always considered the UM the minimum viable budget option, but $140 for an 18, if it works for you--great. That's true to your handle.![]()
You definitely can't go wrong with the UM18! That's a fantastic driver, you'll be very satisfied with that!Thanks for the input and suggestion, I’ll definitely look at the SDR18 from Skar.
At this point, I’m leaning heavily toward two sealed UM18-22 in 4ft3 enclosures, both powered by an NX3000D.
I know it’s slightly underpowered, but my hope is that it will be adequate, and that I can achieve -10dB from ref levels from maybe 15hZ and up.
From looking at measurements I guesstimate that dual sealed UM 18" on a 3000D would have ~3-4 dB more output at and around 20 hz tune of your current 12" ported sub. So 6-7 dB more with 6000D (which I say bite the bullet and get correct amp/driver combo from get go.) Of course much, much more output from dual 18's above and below the tune of your current sub.Thanks for the input and suggestion, I’ll definitely look at the SDR18 from Skar.
At this point, I’m leaning heavily toward two sealed UM18-22 in 4ft3 enclosures, both powered by an NX3000D.
I know it’s slightly underpowered, but my hope is that it will be adequate, and that I can achieve -10dB from ref levels from maybe 15hZ and up.
I like your approach here. I think this is what I will do. While I can do a larger enclosure, it’s going to snowball into a wall of painted built-in shelves etc to help blend in. Sounds like a good future project.I've got 2 of the 4.3cft UM18-22's sealed in a bigger room and they rock. If it were me, and you're even a little bit of a DIY-guy (and I guess you are because you're here), I'd build the sealed first. You've already got the expensive stuff. The enclosures are cheap and easy to build. You don't even have to paint it. Build it. Set it up right. See how you like it. If it's not enough, then go figure out how much of a Marty you can squeeze in. If you like them, take them back to the garage and finish them and be happy![]()
Oh, I want to see them, but am just too afraid my two boys will find a way to destroy them!I've seen people on this forum do down-firing UM18's so it should be just fine. The only thing is that you won't get to see their awesomeness. I definitely understand having to protect them though.
I'm using a 6000D but wouldn't worry about using the 3000D. The worst that'll happen is that you'll leave some headroom on the table. I'd be willing to bet that you'll like what you hear.
I've never used a UM downfiring, but as mentioned, others have. I've never had an issue with ones I have used in that orientation. Here is the generalized formula for calculating sag. It looks fine, but doesn't take into account the long term effects.I think I’m going to do down firing (if UM18 is okay with that) to keep my kids from beating on the woofer like a drum 😂.
No need to simulate UM 18, it has been thoroughly measured at data-bass.com in sealed enclosure. I was looking at the comparison with the HSU VTF 15H V1 (I bet within a dB or two ~20 Hz of your current sub) as well as the lms 12 driver (better driver than your monoprice) in the vmp enclosures. Also looking at audioholics reviews of your sub but different testers so measurements not easily compared.Thanks Luke!
When modeling, what kind of wattage did you simulate from the 3000D? 500w per sub or so?
I would have expected more than a 3dB gain going from the single Monolith 12 to dual UM18’s, but then again, I am looking at underpowered sealed enclosures.
I may not even notice a 3dB gain “at or around tune” if my Monolith.