Buy one from NEC Australia if they will sell it cheap, why risk the tubes ?
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UPS cracked my PG board! can I just put links on it?
well I bought myself a high hour but brand new oem retubed NEC 6 PG plus. it went fine for a short time and then died after a bit.
NEC South Australia said it wasn't worth fixing as parts weren't available.
So I posted here and a new C board was sent from Doug after confirming error codes on the back of the pg.
Then NEC Australia contact me and say they have a heap of boards - too late.
Month pass and I bug Doug, and he sends another board. The second board gets here today, after what, 5 months? ITS BUSTED!
the box has taken a hit and the board is cracked. Its not all that bad, its about 17 or 18 tracks that I can see.
Should I simply try and bridge them with wires? I am fairly good at soldering and have good quality tools. From the electronics point of view I don't know that much and don't know if I can try it on this board due to tolerances or something?
http://www.users.on.net/~john.parkin...d/MVC-001F.jpg
http://www.users.on.net/~john.parkin...d/MVC-003F.jpg
NEC South Australia said it wasn't worth fixing as parts weren't available.
So I posted here and a new C board was sent from Doug after confirming error codes on the back of the pg.
Then NEC Australia contact me and say they have a heap of boards - too late.
Month pass and I bug Doug, and he sends another board. The second board gets here today, after what, 5 months? ITS BUSTED!
the box has taken a hit and the board is cracked. Its not all that bad, its about 17 or 18 tracks that I can see.
Should I simply try and bridge them with wires? I am fairly good at soldering and have good quality tools. From the electronics point of view I don't know that much and don't know if I can try it on this board due to tolerances or something?
http://www.users.on.net/~john.parkin...d/MVC-001F.jpg
http://www.users.on.net/~john.parkin...d/MVC-003F.jpg
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1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Paul, makes a good point here. If the board is not a solid repair, and if the trace breaks loose while the set is on, it could damage the tubes.
However, that crack can be properly repaired, but Iwould suggest that it's sent to someone who's very familiar with doing that type of repair. The soldering has to be from point to point, and not welded at the seams only.
However, that crack can be properly repaired, but Iwould suggest that it's sent to someone who's very familiar with doing that type of repair. The soldering has to be from point to point, and not welded at the seams only.
That's just not fair John. You wait all this time and it arrives busted. Was it insured?
jsp,
This really gets my goat. This is the second one sent, what happened to the first one or is it the first one? Look at the shipping date on the one you have and how many days did it take? I have about had it with International shipping, it sits in customs for months. I sent the last one USPS International while on tour, it was from Tumwater Wash (Olympia).
First one from Diamond Bar Ca. Frustrated. Doug
One other observation, look at the heat sync corrosion, this was brand new so moisture got into it.
This really gets my goat. This is the second one sent, what happened to the first one or is it the first one? Look at the shipping date on the one you have and how many days did it take? I have about had it with International shipping, it sits in customs for months. I sent the last one USPS International while on tour, it was from Tumwater Wash (Olympia).
First one from Diamond Bar Ca. Frustrated. Doug
One other observation, look at the heat sync corrosion, this was brand new so moisture got into it.
well I spent some time on the board and made sure of all the tracks and did all the tracks for an extra inch further than the crack incase there was hairline I couldn't see, braced the board on both sides and bolted it together so it wasn't weak anymore.
Put it in, fired it up and get an F8 error still. I think I just plain give up. I have had enough of the particular projector.
I wanted to avoid putting my mint tubes into my lower hour but worn 9PG, as I was concerned about having issues and damaging the tubes. My name must have been Murphy in a past life. Looks like its my only option.
http://www.users.on.net/~john.parkin...SC03255aaa.jpg
Another board isnt an option for me at the moment, it means a weeks pay, 5 months ago when this all started that wouldnt have been an issue but times have changed for me dramatically in the past 3 months.
So for all the NEC guru's, do I have to pull off all the tube magnetics when swapping a set of tubes from a 6PGplus to a 9PG? what do I have to take into account? I am positive they are the same tubes.
I could live with the tubes in my current 9pg as the wear I can put my 16x9 raster off center to avoid a task bar burn, and a spot burn on the blue isn't a huge issue at the moment, but my green blooms at contrast 42, and I don't have acceptable brightness unless the contrast is cranked to the mid to high 60's. Its just the green.
I am ok with pulling tubes to a degree, I have swapped out tubes on a pair of Sony 12xx's and 6 or 7 10xx's but the NEC just looks so much more complicated.
Put it in, fired it up and get an F8 error still. I think I just plain give up. I have had enough of the particular projector.
I wanted to avoid putting my mint tubes into my lower hour but worn 9PG, as I was concerned about having issues and damaging the tubes. My name must have been Murphy in a past life. Looks like its my only option.
http://www.users.on.net/~john.parkin...SC03255aaa.jpg
Another board isnt an option for me at the moment, it means a weeks pay, 5 months ago when this all started that wouldnt have been an issue but times have changed for me dramatically in the past 3 months.
So for all the NEC guru's, do I have to pull off all the tube magnetics when swapping a set of tubes from a 6PGplus to a 9PG? what do I have to take into account? I am positive they are the same tubes.
I could live with the tubes in my current 9pg as the wear I can put my 16x9 raster off center to avoid a task bar burn, and a spot burn on the blue isn't a huge issue at the moment, but my green blooms at contrast 42, and I don't have acceptable brightness unless the contrast is cranked to the mid to high 60's. Its just the green.
I am ok with pulling tubes to a degree, I have swapped out tubes on a pair of Sony 12xx's and 6 or 7 10xx's but the NEC just looks so much more complicated.
You should likely swap the magnetics, if you put the good tubes into the lesser projector.
I have a BRAND NEW c-drive I can sell you for a LOT LESS than a weeks pay, and I'm sure I can send it to you ExpressPost for about $38. air shipping cost. Email me.
IMHO, and not just to sell a board, the PG Plus is a much better chassis, worth the PITA factor.
I have a BRAND NEW c-drive I can sell you for a LOT LESS than a weeks pay, and I'm sure I can send it to you ExpressPost for about $38. air shipping cost. Email me.
IMHO, and not just to sell a board, the PG Plus is a much better chassis, worth the PITA factor.
jsp,
On the board above was this the first one sent from CA or the second one from WA. How many days did it take from ship date to delivery? We can most likely collect on both but they would need to see the box damage but might accept the pictures. Also you still have one out there that may show up. Can you let me know please, thanks, Doug
Im with Paul, you would want to keep the plus chassis and the tubes are the same. If you need to use above 65 kHz then it would make sense. The plus has the better astig / focus controls
On the board above was this the first one sent from CA or the second one from WA. How many days did it take from ship date to delivery? We can most likely collect on both but they would need to see the box damage but might accept the pictures. Also you still have one out there that may show up. Can you let me know please, thanks, Doug
Im with Paul, you would want to keep the plus chassis and the tubes are the same. If you need to use above 65 kHz then it would make sense. The plus has the better astig / focus controls
heres the box, doesn't show up to well in a picture but its taken a fair hit its a fairly solid box
http://www.users.on.net/~john.parkin...board/box1.jpg
heres the shipping info - sent August - its the second one
http://www.users.on.net/~john.parkin...board/box2.jpg
http://www.users.on.net/~john.parkin...board/box1.jpg
heres the shipping info - sent August - its the second one
http://www.users.on.net/~john.parkin...board/box2.jpg
If you did tubes in a sony 12xx or 10xx the NEC should be no problem.
I do think the magnetics are slightly different but maybe I am wrong. If they are you will see it when you have them out, and you can swap them then.
If anything I'd say the sony's can be tougher access wise, calibration wise though is another story... Good luck.
That looks like USPS postage, not UPS. Just a UPS box right.
Troy
I do think the magnetics are slightly different but maybe I am wrong. If they are you will see it when you have them out, and you can swap them then.
If anything I'd say the sony's can be tougher access wise, calibration wise though is another story... Good luck.
That looks like USPS postage, not UPS. Just a UPS box right.
Troy
Right,
It was packed in a UPS box but had to catch my flight when you e-mailed me so put in my hard case and took it with me. The next day took it into USPS in Tumwater WA on the way to Seattle.
I printed the picture and will also send it in (e-mail) to see what they say. I'm not real sure on international claims but just having two out there should be enough for something to happen. I need to reconsider shipping international and why it sits in customs for so long.
I had the same with others also. Answer 9-11 with customs. Doug
Well that only took 8 weeks to the day. I was hoping it was the first one.
jsp,
I'll look for another one in the morning, if I have one I will send but in a ammo box. What do you think? Doug
It was packed in a UPS box but had to catch my flight when you e-mailed me so put in my hard case and took it with me. The next day took it into USPS in Tumwater WA on the way to Seattle.
I printed the picture and will also send it in (e-mail) to see what they say. I'm not real sure on international claims but just having two out there should be enough for something to happen. I need to reconsider shipping international and why it sits in customs for so long.
I had the same with others also. Answer 9-11 with customs. Doug
Well that only took 8 weeks to the day. I was hoping it was the first one.
jsp,
I'll look for another one in the morning, if I have one I will send but in a ammo box. What do you think? Doug
Eight weeks for "surface economy" is very good. I've had stuff to Australia take 12+ weeks "surface economy". Things sent "surface" need to have many wraps of big bubble, bubble wrap to cushion them. The box isn't the important part, its the cushioning. Lots of tightly wraped, big size bubble, bubble wrap will allow your stuff to arrive safely.
Air services have alot less handling, it is a much better choice, 99% of the time.
Air services have alot less handling, it is a much better choice, 99% of the time.
These shippers are not happy not unless they bash the box in. I have seen plenty this way. Been in my wife's USPS office, if it is small enough they will throw the box across the room into the basket. If it is heavy they will drop it instead of setting it down.
I have come to the conclusion that if you want it to arrive in one peice you double box it with plenty of cushion in both boxes. Recieved some lenses and of course the outer box was smashed, but being double boxed the lens was OK.
Deron.
I have come to the conclusion that if you want it to arrive in one peice you double box it with plenty of cushion in both boxes. Recieved some lenses and of course the outer box was smashed, but being double boxed the lens was OK.
Deron.
Hmmm,
Surface economy and I just noticed the price, I paid alot more then that to mail this, I think it was $18-20. It did have bubble wrap I believe and packed well, but not double boxed, solid box though. I was told 8 days average, customs papers / insurance added some. Doug
Surface economy and I just noticed the price, I paid alot more then that to mail this, I think it was $18-20. It did have bubble wrap I believe and packed well, but not double boxed, solid box though. I was told 8 days average, customs papers / insurance added some. Doug
I know it's a F8 error, and I'm certainly no expert on these matters, but is it possible that the C-drive is ok, and the problem is something else?
The original fault occured after John "upgraded" the Horizontal Output Transistor. John's plus died straight away - with the F8 error.
I upgraded my HOT at the same time in my Xtra - and the "upgraded" transistor has since failed with a F2 error - putting the original back in fixed it.
John did put the original HOT back in, but no go - but I was wondering if it could be the deflection board still, and the error code is incorrect (?).
This repaired C-drive is still giving the same error as well.
I think John also changed some STK's on the original C-drive, not certain, but I have this niggling suspicion that we are barking up the wrong tree, despite the error code.....
Mark
The original fault occured after John "upgraded" the Horizontal Output Transistor. John's plus died straight away - with the F8 error.
I upgraded my HOT at the same time in my Xtra - and the "upgraded" transistor has since failed with a F2 error - putting the original back in fixed it.
John did put the original HOT back in, but no go - but I was wondering if it could be the deflection board still, and the error code is incorrect (?).
This repaired C-drive is still giving the same error as well.
I think John also changed some STK's on the original C-drive, not certain, but I have this niggling suspicion that we are barking up the wrong tree, despite the error code.....
Mark
Mark,
The F8 is pretty direct to the C drive. I always look at a double error and I think if the deflection was bad it would give a double error.
If hes close to you try swaping the C drive or deflection board to locate if your unsure. If you have a shut down dont let it cycle on and off. It could be a bad connection I guess or a feed back circuit but not really what I have seen.
Im here if you need me to test a board for you but Id try to keep it there if you can and save time.
Im curious as to what you used to replace the 2SC4288A HOT, I havent had any luck with a replacement that lasted like the original. Doug
The F8 is pretty direct to the C drive. I always look at a double error and I think if the deflection was bad it would give a double error.
If hes close to you try swaping the C drive or deflection board to locate if your unsure. If you have a shut down dont let it cycle on and off. It could be a bad connection I guess or a feed back circuit but not really what I have seen.
Im here if you need me to test a board for you but Id try to keep it there if you can and save time.
Im curious as to what you used to replace the 2SC4288A HOT, I havent had any luck with a replacement that lasted like the original. Doug
The curse of Australia - he's in Adelaide, and I'm in Melbourne - that's about 8 hrs drive. We don't have any spare Plus boards kicking around either. I only know one other guy with a Plus, and it's 1 hr north of Sydney. There's a couple more in Sydney, but I've never met the guys in person.
I'm not any kind of electronics tech either, it was just the way the failure occured that makes me wonder. I'm hampered by being a mechanical engineer
The HOT we tried was a 2SC5047. Strike that from the list of possible replacements.
Mark
I'm not any kind of electronics tech either, it was just the way the failure occured that makes me wonder. I'm hampered by being a mechanical engineer
The HOT we tried was a 2SC5047. Strike that from the list of possible replacements.
Mark
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
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