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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi.

Here's the situation: I want to put up a Sony 1080p projector in the middle of a room. Where the projector is to be located is a coax cable outlet that leads back to the area where my home theatre receiver and other components are. 1080p projectors do not have a coax input on them however. I also want it to be able to display the full 1080p hd picture. Installing a hdmi or component cable is not an option, as it would involve ripping out drywall and ceiling to get the cable inside, whereas the coax cable is already installed inside the wall, and has the ends coming out exactly where I need them. What options would I have (if any?) to use the coax cable already installed to bring a 1080p hd signal to the projector? I really don't want any wires leading across the room from the receiver to the projector so any suggestions would be great!
 

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looks interesting. could be a viable option for many here if it works as advertised. let us know if you end up going this route and how it works out. although, you'll probably get more traffic for this thread if it were in the distribution forum.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by CurtisJB /forum/post/18138788


$800 is a bit steep. I could almost tear out the dry wall and put a new wire in the wall for that much. Plus the hdmi over coax only gives 1080p @ 30hz, and I'd lie at least 60hz.

With the coax already there (and assuming it's a direct run, which it most likely is), you might be able to use it to pull an HDMI run without ripping drywall the whole way. You might have to cut up a few "windows" to help with the pulling of the cable, but that would be easy to close and touch up. I saw someone do it once, and it didn't seem too hard. Just my $0.02.


YAN
 

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While risky, do you know if the original coax cable is loose in the ceiling or stapled/attached to the studs. If it's just loosely put in the ceiling wall, you could attempt to pull a new cable through by firmly attaching a new wire option to the coax and pulling it through (normally to test this, you just try and see how easily you can pull each end back and forth to ensure it slides freely without too much jamming). I use to do this when possible for alarm wiring. If it's loose, the trick is to make a really strong bond with the new wire and cover the joint so it's smooth to avoid getting caught on things.


If this would work for your installation, pull an extra piece of strong fishing line or other thin but strong cable so you have a future ability to pull another wire if needed.


Since drywall is installed onto the studs, any wiring is normally pulled through drilled holes so it's not actually attached to anything. The biggest challenge is normally where they turn into the wall and come down. That hole can be too small preventing the cable from being pulled or they staple the wire onto the wall stud (of course if you decide you have to cut drywall, start first with the wall since that maybe the only area preventing pulling it through).
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The coax is firmly stapled in all along the run, so using it to pull new cable through is out of the question. So far my best bet I guess is to cut some "windows" in the wall and ceiling along the way and run the cable through... but that's a lot of work and mess.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by CurtisJB /forum/post/18141009


The coax is firmly stapled in all along the run, so using it to pull new cable through is out of the question. So far my best bet I guess is to cut some "windows" in the wall and ceiling along the way and run the cable through... but that's a lot of work and mess.

Have you tried to "fish" a wire across? Even if the coax wire is firmly stapled across, there may be room to string across HDMI or even Cat 5 wire. If you could get Cat 5 wire across, there are RJ45 to HDMI option which may be more economical then other options mentioned.

Fishing or Snaking a wire across a wall
 

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You could use the HDMI over power line option -- only up to 1080i, but $350 instead....


There are several other things being worked on - wireless, MoCA etc so your options will be to get something decent but not great and wait or get something where you have to pull the wire.......


Now the other "middle-way" option is running cables on surface and using cable covers - paint to match or build something to accomodate. Not sure if that would be an option or not......
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
An hdmi cable MIGHT fit if I fished it through, but I'll have to remove the faceplate and box. I doubt that would work since it is a good 30 feet with two 90 degree turns.


The wires on the outside would be a temporary fix at best (the wife is not too thrilled with that being a permanent fix), but is probably the way I'll go for now at least unless a better idea comes up.
 

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I haven't done this so just thinking out loud here



Is it possible to basically dig a channel the width of a cable cover in the ceiling. Put the cable in and then the cable cover and "attach somehow". Then you can just put basic repair over it, popcorn it back and repaint. Might get some lines in there but if you elected to pain the whole thing that should take care of it......should......


alternatively have you confirmed which way the studs run? Are you going to have to go through them? You could open up the ceiling in a few select spots and then just repair those. Ceiling repair isn't to bad.


Hard to say without seeing pictures of your layout and you probably considered most of it. If it is a HT room and you use external covers and paint to match then I think even a lot of wifes would "forget" about it after a few weeks
 

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This is why the sawzall was invented.


HDMI over coax requires 4 or 5 coaxes anyway, and it sounds like the OP only has one coax in place? Not gonna happen.


Send the wife for a spa day, and rip open the drywall. Pull an HDMI cable, and a whole lot of cat6.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by CurtisJB /forum/post/18157545


Just wondering what the cat5 cable would be for? The projector doesn't have a connection for it. Or is that for something else?

Control, analog video(with a video balun) and HDMI video (with an HDMI media adapter if the HDMI cable fails.)


You can use cat6 for practically anything in a pinch, it's like the duct tape of A/V infrastructure. ALWAYS a good thing to have a bunch extra in place.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisWiggles /forum/post/18157932


it's like the duct tape of A/V infrastructure. .

LOL way of putting it. This bailed me out for one of my displays. Long story short I ended up with only cat6 working in the wall and the cat6 was a "last throw it in" that I had done which I am very grateful for now
 
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