AVS Forum banner

21 - 40 of 51 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,586 Posts
Why not cut the laminate into pieces that are easy to manage? Use something consistent in width like a paint stick or similar to set all of your gaps when placing the pieces.
Jagged edges for one reason. Whether cutting the pieces on a table saw, using a slitter, shears, etc., each piece will have edges that are not straight/uniform.

Best method I have found for this type of effect is to apply the laminate over the substrate with contact cement as normal, then using a straight cutting router bit and guides, cut the desired gaps. Produces the straightest, least chipped edges IMHO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
Why not cut the laminate into pieces that are easy to manage? Use something consistent in width like a paint stick or similar to set all of your gaps when placing the pieces.
I was actually considering this method, using painter tape for the cuts. But I am scared to death that I will get an accidental stick before final positioning.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
Jagged edges for one reason. Whether cutting the pieces on a table saw, using a slitter, shears, etc., each piece will have edges that are not straight/uniform.



Best method I have found for this type of effect is to apply the laminate over the substrate with contact cement as normal, then using a straight cutting router bit and guides, cut the desired gaps. Produces the straightest, least chipped edges IMHO.
Thanks for the "tricks of the trade". This is seriously my first venture besides the 1099s.

You would think reversing the blade would be counter intuitive but I recently learned that before the 50's chainsaw chains only had straight cutting edges which was supposedly hard to keep in a straight line until someone examined how a catterpillar uses curved mandibles. The curve or "r" shape in the chain teeth pulls the chain in "carving " inward instead of sliding across the surface requiring more of your energy as well as daily sharpening.

Or something like that.

Anyway, I think I'll use this little single flute 1/8 straight bit with a mounted straight edge with this router plate. ( It looks more like 3/32 )


Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,586 Posts
Anyway, I think I'll use this little single flute 1/8 straight bit with a mounted straight edge with this router plate. ( It looks more like 3/32 )

Yup, that will give you the smoothest edges. Just go slow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
While cutting the countertop frame for the center, it dawned on me that I might have messed up by pre-gluing the two tower top tile frames. (See photo with fingers, center is not glued yet.)

Or should I not care about grain, waste or matching the Brighton Walnut laminated VBSS bodies? I do have some black matte laminate border squares I saved from the 1099s.(see photo)

Any ideas? @smcmillan2 Or more importantly will I be able to laminate the frame top of the two towers with 45s or should I just make a couple new ones? (So I can laminate the top surface before gluing)




Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,586 Posts
While cutting the countertop frame for the center, it dawned on me that I might have messed up by pre-gluing the two tower top tile frames. (See photo with fingers, center is not glued yet.)

Or should I not care about grain, waste or matching the Brighton Walnut laminated VBSS bodies? I do have some black matte laminate border squares I saved from the 1099s.(see photo)

Any ideas? @smcmillan2 Or more importantly will I be able to laminate the frame top of the two towers with 45s or should I just make a couple new ones? (So I can laminate the top surface before gluing)
So you want to laminate the frames around the tiles? That would have been easier to do before they were assembled, yes.

For miters like you have drawn in the second pic, way back when I worked in a cabinet shop we used a shear trimmer such as https://www.rockler.com/miter-trimmer. Nice clean edge, cut all pieces to length, then glue them down.

For longer seams I use a trimmer with an underscribe base such as https://www.prosourcecenter.com/product/3722/bosch-pr006-underscribe-plate-with-wrenches-for-palm-router/. You can use the same on smaller seams, but it's tougher to keep it straight.

Barring either of those solutions, you can get some double-sided tape, such as that used for carpet seams. Tape a piece of laminate to a good straight edge at your desired angle (45 degrees in this case), then using a standard flush trim bit trim it off. Viola! A 45 degree cut. Rinse, repeat for the rest of the pieces. Tedious, but effective and inexpensive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
More tools!? :). My mind is saying yes.. but my pocketbook got destroyed on this (I mean "these") project.

So I will do piece by piece.

Thanks for the quick response.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
Slow and steady.

-Second to last fill and sand finished at 150 grit for all laminate surfaces.
-Laminate cut for 95% of the final product.


Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
Last weekend was very productive. All four cabs are super close to assembly.

All visible sides laminated, with routed edges.

To do:
Bolt enclosures together.
Assemble tops.
Route artificial gaps on face.
Laminate & install 3" feet.
Drill holes & install speakon connectors.
Install Ports, Wires & Speakers!


Notes:
I should have laminated the top strips last, so I might add one extra layer of laminate so it is harder to see the joined edges while standing.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
What do you guys think about adding a few vertical artificial 1/8 gaps on the sides as seen in the first attached photo? ( So it looks like the front could actually open )


Quick update:
-All artificial 1/8 gaps on front are routed and colored in with a black fine point "Inkzall"
-All four cabinets are bolted together with three 3/8 bolts, washers, and locknuts.
-Middle top frame for four tiles was man handled because of slight warping so I will need to re-laminate the sides and top.


Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
Looking good! Those gaps came out nicely, I vote for adding them to the sides for a more realistic look.
Sounds like a plan! ... but what about the insides?

Is there a tool I can use that doesn't cost a fortune. ( I don't want to spend $100+ on something I only use once.)


Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
Discussion Starter #36
Yeah, that's a problem. No tools I can think of that would help you there.
Oh well, I don't think many people would even notice. Perhaps the towers are extra internal storage?! Who knows.!?

Anyway, Since they are already bolted together and I happen to have 4+ people @ my disposal to move the entire unit, is it ok to route the side 1/8 gaps the way it is sitting on its side? (Sit router on its side using the router's weight to slide along on the straight edge)

Also, thank you & everyone else who has helped me out SOOOO MUCH from the fluted router bit suggestion to the VBSS design! In person it really is looking like a piece of factory furniture, I cannot believe it!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
OMG. Near-field is definitely a whole new experience. I have only listened to it for a few hours but am pretty sure I won't be building the Marty now. This thing is straight ridiculous. Thank you @mtg90 !! And everyone else who helped.
@mtg90 I wired these on one channel parallel/series configuration. The only thing I changed on your file was stopping output to channel B. Is this right for the NX6000D. (20hz tune) I am not complaining. :)


Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
 
21 - 40 of 51 Posts
Top