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I have a Velodyn CT-100 I bought 20 years ago (yes, in 1999 - hard to imagine it was that long ago). https://www.cnet.com/products/velodyne-ct-100-subwoofer/

Was my main sub for years and performed well for what it is (10" ported sub, 250watts RMS). About 7 years ago, we had a lightning ground strike that fried a number of things in our home, including the amp on the sub. Yes, I have since upgraded surge protectors and installed a whole home surge protector.

State Farm was good to me and I did some upgrading, replacing it with a Rythmik 12" ported sub and stored the Velodyne away for a rainy day. Well, I'm finishing my basement, doing in-wall speakers and another small home theater...so I need a sub. Looking online, the only amp that I found that seems to fit the opening on my Velodyne is this:

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-spa250-250-watt-subwoofer-plate-amplifier--300-803#lblProductDetails

The sub and enclosure are in perfect shape...but is it worth dumping $156 to make it work again vs buying a $200 or less new sub (or used if I find someone local selling something decent)? I am too project heavy to think about component testing/repair on the Velodyne's amp if it can even be salvaged. I've been blowing cash like crazy on this basement (plus other stuff), so spending $600+ on a sub is not in the cards right now.

Opinions? If I should replace it, what $200 or less sub would be on par with the Velodyne. If repair, is there another option rather than the Dayton plate amp that would make sense?
 

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I have a Velodyn CT-100 I bought 20 years ago (yes, in 1999 - hard to imagine it was that long ago). https://www.cnet.com/products/velodyne-ct-100-subwoofer/

Was my main sub for years and performed well for what it is (10" ported sub, 250watts RMS). About 7 years ago, we had a lightning ground strike that fried a number of things in our home, including the amp on the sub. Yes, I have since upgraded surge protectors and installed a whole home surge protector.

State Farm was good to me and I did some upgrading, replacing it with a Rythmik 12" ported sub and stored the Velodyne away for a rainy day. Well, I'm finishing my basement, doing in-wall speakers and another small home theater...so I need a sub. Looking online, the only amp that I found that seems to fit the opening on my Velodyne is this:

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-spa250-250-watt-subwoofer-plate-amplifier--300-803#lblProductDetails

The sub and enclosure are in perfect shape...but is it worth dumping $156 to make it work again vs buying a $200 or less new sub (or used if I find someone local selling something decent)? I am too project heavy to think about component testing/repair on the Velodyne's amp if it can even be salvaged. I've been blowing cash like crazy on this basement (plus other stuff), so spending $600+ on a sub is not in the cards right now.

Opinions? If I should replace it, what $200 or less sub would be on par with the Velodyne. If repair, is there another option rather than the Dayton plate amp that would make sense?

If you want to keep the Velodyne, you can send the amplifier in for repair. EBC Electronics in New Jersey does an excellent job. He charges a flat rate. I sent in a Velodyne MiniVee amplifier last July. It came back in about 2 weeks. It was difficult to see any difference from new. The solder work was excellent and replacement parts were factory values and brands. I'm very happy with his work and wold not hesitate to use his services again.

https://www.ebcelectronics.com/velodyne-ct-100-Repair-Service.html
https://www.ebcelectronics.com/velodyne-repair.php
 

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I have a Velodyn CT-100 I bought 20 years ago (yes, in 1999 - hard to imagine it was that long ago). https://www.cnet.com/products/velodyne-ct-100-subwoofer/

Was my main sub for years and performed well for what it is (10" ported sub, 250watts RMS). About 7 years ago, we had a lightning ground strike that fried a number of things in our home, including the amp on the sub. Yes, I have since upgraded surge protectors and installed a whole home surge protector.

State Farm was good to me and I did some upgrading, replacing it with a Rythmik 12" ported sub and stored the Velodyne away for a rainy day. Well, I'm finishing my basement, doing in-wall speakers and another small home theater...so I need a sub. Looking online, the only amp that I found that seems to fit the opening on my Velodyne is this:

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-spa250-250-watt-subwoofer-plate-amplifier--300-803#lblProductDetails
Physically fitting and being fit for purpose are not the same I'm afraid. A powered sub is a combination of driver, amplifier, DSP tuning, enclosure volume and alignment. They all work together to create the end result. You can't really replace one part with something generic and not have some type of integration issue. What if the amp is too powerful for the driver? What if there's an impedance mismatch? What if the amp doesn't have an adjustable filter to prevent the driver from being overloaded? And if it does, where do you set it? Typically it's not worth the hassle unless you have detailed information about all the parts, including T/S parameters of the driver and how the original amp was setup and configured.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
According to the CT-100 owner's manual:
- 10" driver
- 100W (RMS/continuous) amp
- 28-120Hz +/-3dB

I wouldn't consider repairing it when a new and well-rated Dayton SUB-1200...
- 12" driver
- 120W (RMS/continuous) amp
- 25-140Hz +/-?dB
...can be had for $148, shipped, from parts-express.com.
But is the quality of sound the same/better? That's my concern. The Velodyne performed well for me.

If you want to keep the Velodyne, you can send the amplifier in for repair. EBC Electronics in New Jersey does an excellent job. He charges a flat rate. I sent in a Velodyne MiniVee amplifier last July. It came back in about 2 weeks. It was difficult to see any difference from new. The solder work was excellent and replacement parts were factory values and brands. I'm very happy with his work and wold not hesitate to use his services again.

https://www.ebcelectronics.com/velodyne-ct-100-Repair-Service.html
https://www.ebcelectronics.com/velodyne-repair.php
So it is $150, plus $22 return shipping and I'll assume similar shipping costs sending to him. Approaching $200 to repair it - something to think about.

Physically fitting and being fit for purpose are not the same I'm afraid. A powered sub is a combination of driver, amplifier, DSP tuning, enclosure volume and alignment. They all work together to create the end result. You can't really replace one part with something generic and not have some type of integration issue. What if the amp is too powerful for the driver? What if there's an impedance mismatch? What if the amp doesn't have an adjustable filter to prevent the driver from being overloaded? And if it does, where do you set it? Typically it's not worth the hassle unless you have detailed information about all the parts, including T/S parameters of the driver and how the original amp was setup and configured.
Driver and enclosure volume are already handled, obviously. But the idea that another amp can't be paired and performed without major setup is a bit of a flawed assumption, isn't it. For any real sub setup work, my experiences are mostly with car and boat stuff (boat mostly over the last several years). Set my crossover using my SMD CC-1 crossover calibrator. Then set my gain with my SMD-DD1 distortion detector. I'm running the sub amp in my boat to the bleeding edge without distortion/damage to anything for years and it sounds really good (12" Exile Audio sub in a ported enclosure).

Let us not forget, this was a $450 sub new 20 years ago and I'm keeping the $200 or less budget here; just want to ensure perspective is kept!
 

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Driver and enclosure volume are already handled, obviously. But the idea that another amp can't be paired and performed without major setup is a bit of a flawed assumption, isn't it. For any real sub setup work, my experiences are mostly with car and boat stuff (boat mostly over the last several years). Set my crossover using my SMD CC-1 crossover calibrator. Then set my gain with my SMD-DD1 distortion detector. I'm running the sub amp in my boat to the bleeding edge without distortion/damage to anything for years and it sounds really good (12" Exile Audio sub in a ported enclosure).
The 'assumption' is anything but flawed, that's simply how it works. Everything is interrelated, dependent upon the rest of the chain. Swap one piece with something generic and you throw off the balance. Can it be done? Sure. Will the results be worth the effort? Depends upon how discerning you are. It's not inconceivable to get lucky with a combination, bit it's not common either. Caveat emptor.
 

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...

Driver and enclosure volume are already handled, obviously. But the idea that another amp can't be paired and performed without major setup is a bit of a flawed assumption, isn't it. For any real sub setup work, my experiences are mostly with car and boat stuff (boat mostly over the last several years). Set my crossover using my SMD CC-1 crossover calibrator. Then set my gain with my SMD-DD1 distortion detector. I'm running the sub amp in my boat to the bleeding edge without distortion/damage to anything for years and it sounds really good (12" Exile Audio sub in a ported enclosure).

Let us not forget, this was a $450 sub new 20 years ago and I'm keeping the $200 or less budget here; just want to ensure perspective is kept!
The thing to keep in mind here would be that one of Velodyne's claim to fame and specific engineering points that set them apart early on was its servo feedback designs for driver control (accuracy and low-frequency extension), over excursion protection, and lower distortion.

The CT series subwoofers used a current sensing servo mechanism/circuit for over excursion and distortion control. The driver has been designed to work as part of that system and part of the control circuit is undoubtedly built into Velodyne's supplied amplifier. The servo control feature adjusts the output of the internal amplifier based on the impedance of the driver as the signal voltage varies.

Taking this into consideration, amplifier replacement that is not like and kind will no doubt produce variation in the performance of the OEM driver and its overall sound quality. Something to take into consideration.
 

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So it is $150, plus $22 return shipping and I'll assume similar shipping costs sending to him. Approaching $200 to repair it - something to think about.
That is very inexpensive; I'd do it assuming the woofer surround is still in good shape.

Cost me almost $700 to have the amp/servo controller repaired on my DD15.
 

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That is very inexpensive; I'd do it assuming the woofer surround is still in good shape.

Cost me almost $700 to have the amp/servo controller repaired on my DD15.
That's too bad...

Paul's flat rate for the DD series is $240 and $275 for the DD+ series plus return shipping.
 

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That's too bad...

Paul's flat rate for the DD series is $240 and $275 for the DD+ series plus return shipping.
Is that for ANY problem or just an amp problem.

What if it is a servo/EQ problem?

I'll certainly now consider repairing my DD15 for a second time if it fails at that price, for sure, as it is a fantastic sub and while overkill would likely cost me at least $1100 to replace with a Rhythmik F12G as I'm no basshead and don't really "need" a 15" sub.
 

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That's too bad...

Paul's flat rate for the DD series is $240 and $275 for the DD+ series plus return shipping.
Found this so as my EQ board had to be repaired as well likely would have been higher...but likely less than I paid so I'll bookmark the link.

Thanks.

The repair service will not cover:
- damaged driver repair (recone or refoam).
- bad microprocessor or digital processor chips
 

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Is that for ANY problem or just an amp problem.

What if it is a servo/EQ problem?

I'll certainly now consider repairing my DD15 for a second time if it fails at that price, for sure, as it is a fantastic sub and while overkill would likely cost me at least $1100 to replace with a Rhythmik F12G as I'm no basshead and don't really "need" a 15" sub.
Found this so as my EQ board had to be repaired as well likely would have been higher...but likely less than I paid so I'll bookmark the link.

Thanks.

The repair service will not cover:
- damaged driver repair (recone or refoam).
- bad microprocessor or digital processor chips
I would send him an email with your specific questions. He responds usually the same day or with in 24 hours. Looks like his back log is out a few weeks now. He does repair quite a few other brands as well. My MiniVee came back looking and working as good as new.

It's disappointing that Velodyne seems to be abandoning the market. I have 2 MiniVee's that we use for our backyard theater, and old F-1200 sitting in the closet gathering dust and a DD12 that we use with the TV. The one MiniVee was the first unit that I've had any problems with.

I contacted an authorized Velodyne repair center locally and they wanted an $80 diagnostic fee to be applied to the repair or they would take my amplifier as a core charge and give me a new one for $500.00 with a 1 year warranty. Almost sounds like that's what they did with your DD15.

I was really happy that I found EBC Electronics and would not hesitate to use him again.
 
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