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Discussion Starter #1
I'm getting ready to veneer two sub boxes. When I did some several years ago, I used a paper backed veneer with the adhesive backing. It sticks when applied with pressure. But it takes a lot of pressure and getting the edges done well was a pain. In general, do most people here use contact cement to apply veneer? Is that the preferred method or is there another way most people like?

Thanks.
 

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I know some people have had good luck with contact cement for simple surfaces. Are your boxes just square corners or do you have roundovers to deal with?
 

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I'm getting ready to veneer two sub boxes. When I did some several years ago, I used a paper backed veneer with the adhesive backing. It sticks when applied with pressure. But it takes a lot of pressure and getting the edges done well was a pain. In general, do most people here use contact cement to apply veneer? Is that the preferred method or is there another way most people like?

Thanks.

Do you already have the veneer you are going to use? What do you have?


What is the surface of the sub boxes you are going to veneer?


Lots of variables on what type of glue is an option and what might be preferred.


Titan DX works well if you have backed veneer.



https://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Better-Bond-Titan-DX-Premium-Contact-Cement.html
 

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I've used a few kinds and my favorite to work with (on MDF) is the good peel and stick stuff. I don't really have trouble with the edges if they are a nice square cut.
 

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I use good old contact cement. It seems like it has the best chance of really sticking for the long haul. And the edges are good and tight. Paper backed walnut is all I’ve ever used, but I have done a lot of it.

Here’s a pic of two sub cabs, fresh veneer as of a week ago or so.
 

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I use good old contact cement. It seems like it has the best chance of really sticking for the long haul. And the edges are good and tight. Paper backed walnut is all I’ve ever used, but I have done a lot of it.

Here’s a pic of two sub cabs, fresh veneer as of a week ago or so.
Where do you source your veneers?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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I've always used contact adhesive (flammable, *not* the non-flam stuff) for laminate/veneer over the past 30+ years. Making sure to get a little extra on the edges (both substrate and veneer) as that is where it will tend to de-lam if given a chance.

I have tried the non-flammable contact adhesive but do not care for it. It doesn't set up as well/quickly as the flammable (which may be a good or bad thing depending on your comfort level with apply veneer), so it takes longer to get the job done. Much longer in my experience.
 

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If non-standard corners or sloped surfaces, I had great luck with the heat activated Heat-Lock veneer glue from veneersupplies.com.


The first pic is the towers right after veneering, the second is after about 14 coats of dewaxed shellac, Zinsser SealCoat. I put about 7-8 light coats of matte poly over the top of the shellac.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I know some people have had good luck with contact cement for simple surfaces. Are your boxes just square corners or do you have roundovers to deal with?
The boxes are mdf with square corners. There is a front baffle that is rounded but I'll be painting that.
 

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I've used a few kinds and my favorite to work with (on MDF) is the good peel and stick stuff. I don't really have trouble with the edges if they are a nice square cut.
For the peel and stick you've used, where did you buy it from? And were you working with mdf? If so, did you prep the mdf before the peel and stick? Thanks.
 

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For the peel and stick you've used, where did you buy it from? And were you working with mdf? If so, did you prep the mdf before the peel and stick? Thanks.
I buy all of mine locally from Woodcraft. And yes, I used a coat of polyurethane over the MDF to get a really good surface to adhere to.
 

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Are my eyes playing tricks on me, or are the sides of the cab not totally flat?

No tricks, they have a 5 degree transition from the midrange area down to almost the top of the middle woofer, then they transition back to vertical, then another 5 degree transition at about the bottom of the middle woofer back to the width of the midrange baffle area.


Attached is my engineering drawing. Edit: a dimension was off, so I uploaded a new engineering drawing.
 

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