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Vented sub box design help!!

1046 Views 33 Replies 6 Participants Last post by vince32837, Feb 17, 2014

BrentTHX

Discussion Starter · Feb 14, 2014

I have 4 mach 5 UXL's ordered and what to get boxes built for them, found Baltic Birch on sale locally till Feb 22. So I want to get going on it while I can save some money on the wood.

Requirements are as follows:

Tune between 15 and 18 Hz

Foot print can be 20 inches wide ( have 21 inches from screen frame to side wall) by 24 inches deep ( can be less don't want more) height can be 60 inches high (sheets come in 60 inches by 60 inches).

Can get either 3/4 inch (18mm) 13 ply stuff that's on sale $59 per sheet or 1 inch (24mm) 18 ply at 90 per sheet not on sale. What would be better? By other builds I assume 3/4 is fine with double front baffle.

I will be using JTR 212HT-Lp for LCR and either Slant 8 for side and rears or DIY sound V-8's

Thanks in advance, I'm lost with design software!!

1 - 20 of 34 Posts

BrentTHX

Discussion Starter · #2 · Feb 14, 2014

Sorry for some reason it double posted, can't find place to delete it. If Mod could remove double post?

steve nn

· #3 · Feb 14, 2014

Hey Brent, I'll be glad to help you out to a degree but I'm out the door. If no one steps in, I'll help you out latter. You might want to post how much power you plan on feeding each driver and if you want 4 individual subs or two drivers in a X2 enclosure/sub. The 3/4 would work just fine braced correctly but by no means is the 1" a bad idea.

BrentTHX

Discussion Starter · #4 · Feb 14, 2014

I will be powering subs with 2- Inuke 6000 maybe dsp, can get them pretty cheap and may go dsp and give that a try instead of dspmini. Or will go with 1- IPR2 7500 with a dsp mini. They will all be in separate boxes, one in each corner of the room. I can't lay them down under screen as I'm putting electronics under it.

steve nn

· #5 · Feb 14, 2014

Here are two projects that you might be interested in? The first one started as a two driver option X2 but then turned into a quad. See what you think and then we can work from there. Here is another link that might be of use to you also. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1516043/my-ported-uxl-18-in-9-9cf-x2

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1506201/unnamed-sub-build

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1516043/my-ported-uxl-18-in-9-9cf-x2

BrentTHX

Discussion Starter · #6 · Feb 14, 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve nn /t/1517818/vented-sub-box-design-help#post_24358576

Here are two projects that you might be interested in? The first one started as a two driver option X2 but then turned into a quad. See what you think and then we can work from there. Here is another link that might be of use to you also. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1516043/my-ported-uxl-18-in-9-9cf-x2

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1506201/unnamed-sub-build

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1516043/my-ported-uxl-18-in-9-9cf-x2

Yes I have followed I think every build thread. Just my restricted demension's make port and everything different? JB build works if I can put driver on 22 inch side, but make it 20 instead. Don't know how to model changes. Anything works for me with port and driver on 20 inch side. I have wall on one side and screen on the other with electronics under it. So I didn't think I wanted port or driver firing into electronics cabinet?

steve nn

· #7 · Feb 14, 2014

Ok gotcha! Lets see....

steve nn

· #8 · Feb 14, 2014

Ok lets see how this sounds going with the measurements you stated. It turns out I needed all the volume supposing we need 3cf displacement. We will need to adjust a little most likely but then maybe not. Total enclosure 20W X 24D X 60H 14cf.

11cf internal after displacement 18hz tune. 2 slot vents 4 X 8.88 X 48.5 long with a hp at 17hz. 1st port resonance 139.37 Air velocity 26.

I’ll let you digest this and reply on a different computer. I’ll not have the use of WinISD until tomorrow morning though. Your SPL is off the chart at 120-122dB though. This is good yes? Oh I can post the graphs for you too or VI PM tomorrow.

BrentTHX

Discussion Starter · #9 · Feb 15, 2014

Sounds good!! 4 of them should hammer pretty good? Room is 3000 CF plus or minus a little. 14' wide X 25' 9" X 8'3". Is it a good idea to put them one in each corner? The front and back ones would fire towards each other. By two slot vent you me one vent with a divider/brace in middle splitting it in half? Sorry for all the newbe questions. Have done a ton of subs for cars but everyone has been sealed. And always had manufacture telling me box size for what I wanted it to sound like.

steve nn

· #10 · Feb 15, 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrentTHX /t/1517818/vented-sub-box-design-help#post_24359300

Sounds good!! 4 of them should hammer pretty good? Room is 3000 CF plus or minus a little. 14' wide X 25' 9" X 8'3". Is it a good idea to put them one in each corner? The front and back ones would fire towards each other. By two slot vent you me one vent with a divider/brace in middle splitting it in half? Sorry for all the newbe questions. Have done a ton of subs for cars but everyone has been sealed. And always had manufacture telling me box size for what I wanted it to sound like.

You never know what works out best for sub placement but you'll have plenty to work with that's for sure. Try each corner to start out and work from there. Yes one 3/4 divider down the middle. I tried to go three slots but it didn't work out. It would of helped you for bracing purposes but we you can work around it, it's not very wide so you're good.

Ok this is what I would like you to do. Go to the link I provided and figure how much volume your vent is going to take up. Minus 1.5" off the length of your vent when factoring. EDIT> Factor in the 3/4 ply also as part of your vent. Lets plan on incorporating 1" dowel to save space and weight (if that works for you) but in no way effecting the integrity of your enclosure. If you like factor in the driver also and I'll factor the bracing.

BrentTHX

Discussion Starter · #11 · Feb 15, 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve nn /t/1517818/vented-sub-box-design-help#post_24359546

You never know what works out best for sub placement but you'll have plenty to work with that's for sure. Try each corner to start out and work from there. Yes one 3/4 divider down the middle. I tried to go three slots but it didn't work out. It would of helped you for bracing purposes but we you can work around it, it's not very wide so you're good.

Ok this is what I would like you to do. Go to the link I provided and figure how much volume your vent is going to take up. Minus 1.5" off the length of your vent when factoring. EDIT> Factor in the 3/4 ply also as part of your vent. Lets plan on incorporating 1" dowel to save space and weight (if that works for you) but in no way effecting the integrity of your enclosure. If you like factor in the driver also and I'll factor the bracing.

What linc? the earlier ones? or is there another? OK I will figure out vent, I think i know what you mean. I take the area that the vent uses up so it gets subtracted from the box volume?

steve nn

· #12 · Feb 15, 2014

Sorry about that, looks like I had the same link posted twice or something. Use the brace calculator as a solid, very easy..

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/enclosure-volume-calculator/

BrentTHX

Discussion Starter · #13 · Feb 15, 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve nn /t/1517818/vented-sub-box-design-help#post_24360002

Sorry about that, looks like I had the same link posted twice or something. Use the brace calculator as a solid, very easy..

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/enclosure-volume-calculator/

Thanks!!! I'm so lost on vented!! LOl Crazy part is my stereo in my car has to be worth 50 grand all built be myself, but when it comes to this I'm lost.

LTD02

· #14 · Feb 15, 2014

i think this is what steve is talking about, but i'm not 100% sure...

it would be really simple and perform great. single slot port running down the back and firing up. if that is a cool design for you, all you really need to do is pick a tuning frequency and the port length can be calculated.

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jbrown15

· #15 · Feb 15, 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 /t/1517818/vented-sub-box-design-help#post_24360062

i think this is what steve is talking about, but i'm not 100% sure...

it would be really simple and perform great. single slot port running down the back and firing up. if that is a cool design for you, all you really need to do is pick a tuning frequency and the port length can be calculated.

That would look pretty cool!

BrentTHX

Discussion Starter · #16 · Feb 15, 2014

Ok if I did it right the port takes up 2090 sq inches or 1.029 sq feet. I haven't found sub displacement but I know I seen it before, think its .243 cubic feet. will look tomorrow getting late here.

LTD02

· #17 · Feb 15, 2014

"That would look pretty cool!"

yeah, it's so strange. it's like you never know if it is going to have the cool factor until it is drawn up. i agree, that one does have it.

BrentTHX

Discussion Starter · #18 · Feb 15, 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 /t/1517818/vented-sub-box-design-help#post_24360062

i think this is what steve is talking about, but i'm not 100% sure...

it would be really simple and perform great. single slot port running down the back and firing up. if that is a cool design for you, all you really need to do is pick a tuning frequency and the port length can be calculated.

I'm good with anything as long as foot print is 20 X 24 thats all that matters, it will be behind false Colum .I'm more worried about performance than anything.

LTD02

· #19 · Feb 15, 2014

"Ok if I did it right the port takes up 2090 sq inches or 1.029 sq feet. I haven't found sub displacement but I know I seen it before, think its .243 cubic feet. will look tomorrow getting late here."

great.

with these largish low tuned cabs, there is some slop factor. if something is off by 1/2 a cubic foot it isn't going to mess up the sub. just something to keep in mind and reduce the stress factor.

anything to reduce the stress factor.

steve nn

· #20 · Feb 15, 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 /t/1517818/vented-sub-box-design-help#post_24360062

i think this is what steve is talking about, but i'm not 100% sure...

it would be really simple and perform great. single slot port running down the back and firing up. if that is a cool design for you, all you really need to do is pick a tuning frequency and the port length can be calculated.

Bravo John, that looks great! If he vented out the top he wouldn't need to bend the slot. I was going everything from the front like asked. So all said and done we would be looking at 2.5cf for the vent and another .6 or so for the driver and dowel bracing. Tight, but like you say we have play.

EDIT> I see we have plenty going with the dowels including driver displacement though. Comes out next to perfect!

mm

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