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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, so I've got an old ruby projector and I have some high output led modules I'm looking create a housing and fit it into the pj and power it externally, i realise I'll loose quality in doing this but im just looking to create a pj that will last for ages as I use it for 7000 hours a year

So i was wondering if its possible to trick the ruby into thinking that the standard xenon bulb was running so that it doesn't shut down after it thinks that the bulb hasn't fired.

Until I get past this hiccup I can't go on with the housing.

many thanks in advance
 

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I think gpctv02 got his account banned. I'll play nicer because it isn't him haha.

There are several aspects you need to consider when trying to attempt this. I also think there are very specific reasons you aren't seeing 3rd party "professionally" done LED replacement modules. Some of them include power management, color temperature/color characteristics, and thermal management. The power supply in these projectors are chosen specifically to power these UHP lamps under very strict power conditions. Putting in an LED module and getting them to power properly may be a lot harder than you think. There are many power up safety checks the projector does at start up. Tricking the projector into thinking the "bulb" is working fine may turn out to be difficult.

Next we move on to color temperature and color properties. The color of light coming from the LED is different than the UHP lamp. This will change the way color is reproduced inside the light engine. The filters inside the light engine were chosen to work with the color characteristics of the UHP lamp, not the LEDs. So I'm assuming heavy calibration will be needed if you're able to pull this off. This will more than likely reduce the lumen output quite a bit.

The last major thing I can think of would be thermal characteristics. The LEDs need heatsinks to be cooled and depending on how you have them situated in the module that you build, cooling them properly could become an issue. The cooling solution inside the projector was built around the UHP lamp, not LEDs.

So you really need to take all of these things into consideration. If you think you can pull it off, by all means, go for it. But I think the very fact we haven't seen a 3rd party device out there for the popular projectors most likely means that it's very difficult to pull off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the warm welcome and replies guys.

So what I have is a 150w Cree led module with its own power supply, the power supply will remain external to the projector. On the power supply is brightness and colour temp. So it will allow me a small range to tune it in. However I agree that it won't be anywhere as good as the factory setup.

Cooling won't be an issue as the heat output is far lower than the xenon setup, so exsisting fans will be fine. The large lamp size in this projector makes life a bit easier to fit everything in. I'll use the existing plastic lamp housing and machine a heat sink that mounts inside it like the original.


I found a repair manual today that documents the full lamp feed back system. It looks fairly straight forward to fool. I'll post pictures of it when I'm on my computer next.
 

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Thanks for the warm welcome and replies guys.

So what I have is a 150w Cree led module with its own power supply, the power supply will remain external to the projector. On the power supply is brightness and colour temp. So it will allow me a small range to tune it in. However I agree that it won't be anywhere as good as the factory setup.

Cooling won't be an issue as the heat output is far lower than the xenon setup, so exsisting fans will be fine. The large lamp size in this projector makes life a bit easier to fit everything in. I'll use the existing plastic lamp housing and machine a heat sink that mounts inside it like the original.


I found a repair manual today that documents the full lamp feed back system. It looks fairly straight forward to fool. I'll post pictures of it when I'm on my computer next.
How are you planning on tricking the projector into thinking the bulb is installed in the projector?
 

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the D65 lumen output was surprisingly low on this model considering it had a 400 watt Xenon lamp, much of the light must have been lost in the optical path.

this topic has been brought up several different times over the last few years, but I don't think anyone actually found a way to make it work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So it looks like the main board gets sent 3v from the lamp power supply when the bulb fires and starts drawing current, this gradually drops as the bulb warms up down to 1.2v. However that is on a new bulb, as the bulb gets older the feedback voltage gets higher closer to the 3v which tells the projector if it shouldn't still be using that globe as its now drawing less current and therefore too worn.

I propose to resistor down the 3.3v signal that is meant to run through the lamp psu and loop it back into the main board at 1.8v

I believe that it won't matter that it is a constant 1.8v as opposed starting at 3v and dropping down to somewhere in between 1.2-3v tolerance. If the globe is already hot it quickly shoots down to 1.2 in no time at all

There are a few other things in the system that could lock me out. My plan is to do the resistor mod and place a 200 lumen torch in the light path and look into the lens as it will be too dark to project I believe. And I'll see if I can display video without error codes and to see if the unit powers down on me
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah true focusing the light may take some time to get right, however there is plenty of room inside to try different reflectors.

So I had a storm go through last night and it seems to have killed the power supplies output and it can no longer start the globe. So tonight I will start stripping down the unit and begin. I'll put up heaps of photos as I go. Most likely they'll be in bulk on weekends.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I was able to get the unit up and running again after swapping out the main fuse. While it was apart I took some time to work on the convergence which was absolutely shot on mine. Red being out but 3 pixels

With some careful tweaking I got it perfect
 

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I was able to get the unit up and running again after swapping out the main fuse. While it was apart I took some time to work on the convergence which was absolutely shot on mine. Red being out but 3 pixels

With some careful tweaking I got it perfect
I know this an old post, but I will give it try anyway.

I stumbled upon your post because I was proposing the same fix. I have not been able to find the schematics for the VPL Aw100. Since you were successful in this project, I would like to pick your brain. It looks like one of the small wires (5 or so) coming off the ballast board are the ones you are referring to as the control for the "lamp on" circuit. Not knowing the amperage I calculated a 9K ohm resister, although I was considering a variable resister so that I could dial it in myself. Also I am curious as to the Lumen and color range you used. Based on what I read I would need somewhere between 4000K and 5000K color; that would get me the xenon white I need. I was thinking possible a 12000 Lumen LED.

I would appreciate any P/Ns, pictures, drawings, or diagrams you have to overcome this issue.
 

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I know this an old post, but I will give it try anyway.

I was able to get the unit up and running again after swapping out the main fuse. While it was apart I took some time to work on the convergence which was absolutely shot on mine. Red being out but 3 pixels

With some careful tweaking I got it perfect

I stumbled upon your post because I was proposing the same fix. I have not been able to find the schematics for the VPL Aw100. Since you were successful in this project, I would like to pick your brain. It looks like one of the small wires (5 or so) coming off the ballast board are the ones you are referring to as the control for the "lamp on" circuit. Not knowing the amperage I calculated a 9K ohm resister, although I was considering a variable resister so that I could dial it in myself. Also I am curious as to the Lumen and color range you used. Based on what I read I would need somewhere between 4000K and 5000K color; that would get me the xenon white I need. I was thinking possible a 12000 Lumen LED.

I would appreciate any P/Ns, pictures, drawings, or diagrams you have to overcome this issue.
 
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