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Just a tip for next time:

It looks to me that your front/back are full sized, and everything fits between them? If so, for assembly, I would start with the back and attach bottom (or top). Then attach the sides, then the top (or bottom). And lastly, the front.

This way you are only gluing 2 edges at any given time, allowing for a little wiggle room. And then the last piece simply lays over all the other 4 edges.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Just a tip for next time:

It looks to me that your front/back are full sized, and everything fits between them? If so, for assembly, I would start with the back and attach bottom (or top). Then attach the sides, then the top (or bottom). And lastly, the front.

This way you are only gluing 2 edges at any given time, allowing for a little wiggle room. And then the last piece simply lays over all the other 4 edges.
I like that. I’m doing something similar with full size (back) last. The reason I’m afixing the front first is so I can install the slot port and use a flush trim bit to make the cut.

There’s a chance I may need to rebuild one or both of these boxes...
 

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I like that. I’m doing something similar with full size (back) last. The reason I’m afixing the front first is so I can install the slot port and use a flush trim bit to make the cut.

There’s a chance I may need to rebuild one or both of these boxes...
I missed that part, sorry. Put the slot port in before the other side. The whole idea is that you only have 2 new edges gluing at any given time, that way you're not trying to fit 3+ edges inside boundaries (and thus not getting the glue where it needs to be).

The port can be cut out any time after all the port's pieces are affixed. I typically hog it out before I put the last piece on (in your case, the back or front). Easier to clean the mess out.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I missed that part, sorry. Put the slot port in before the other side. The whole idea is that you only have 2 new edges gluing at any given time, that way you're not trying to fit 3+ edges inside boundaries (and thus not getting the glue where it needs to be).

The port can be cut out any time after all the port's pieces are affixed. I typically hog it out before I put the last piece on (in your case, the back or front). Easier to clean the mess out.
That makes perfect sense! Dang! I hope I have enough glue on these. Especially where I needed to “slide” things into place.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
How much clearance do I need for my slot port?

I'm getting ready to stuff with denim insulation. How much clearance do I need to give to my slot port?
 

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I'm getting ready to stuff with denim insulation. How much clearance do I need to give to my slot port?
I usually try to keep it ~2 - 3 inches away from the port end. Don't know if there some sort of standard calculation based on port size...
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I usually try to keep it ~2 - 3 inches away from the port end. Don't know if there some sort of standard calculation based on port size...
The port is 1.5 tall x 11.5 wide x 7 deep
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Denim Insulation, pre-drilling, screw size

I'm using denim insulation instead of poly-fill. Can I have the insulation touch the metal basket of the woofer? I don't have much room in my box.

The screws appear to go in slightly diagonal. Should I drill them at a slight angle?

What size screws should I use for the DIYSG magnum 12?


 

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No doubt! I lucked out big time! I’ve screwed up on every turn of this build! After I get done, presumably I’ll be better but won’t be building any more subs for quite some time 😞
Screw, turn, good one! Oh, no pun meant? Sorry my bad.

Seriously, if you learn from the mistakes then you are still getting something positive out of it.
 

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What size screws should I use for the DIYSG magnum 12?
FWIW I use 1-5/8" drywall screws for all my speakers. Just because they are cheap when you buy a 5 lb container.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
FWIW I use 1-5/8" drywall screws for all my speakers. Just because they are cheap when you buy a 5 lb container.

I contacted Erich at DIYSG and he suggested #8 pan head. I went to menards and got some that were painted brown.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Another screw up!

So I didn't have my side panel attached (it's the one I left open) and rough fit it in so I could cut my slot port. Well I forgot while routing and the side popped out... That has been the story of this build folks!

The worst part is I thought my wife was pregnant post vasectomy (like my op didn't work). I was so pissed! I'm done at 2 sets of subs. The LRK ULF subs will be next. I'm sticking to 7.4.4
Here's the solution!
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Denim Insulation

I ended up using denim insulation as my filler. MBM's especially can have a resonant effect without polyfill. I had great luck with Denim in my basement build. Actually, I used double 3/4" drywall, Green glue between every sheet, denim insultion, R13 fluffy stuff, and staggered studs... But I liked the denim. If you put your ears right next to it, it'll make you a bit dizzy because it grabs so much sound.
I used spray glue to hold it into place and then a light spray over the top to keep the denim together.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Anyone have any suggestions for non-spiked speaker feet? I think the highest I can go is 2” to 3”
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Anyone have any suggestions for non-spiked speaker feet? I think the highest I can go is 2” to 3”
Given that I'm on concrete already, I may just take some MDF and stain it dark and have "runners or skis" on the bottom to elevate it.
 

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Given that I'm on concrete already, I may just take some MDF and stain it dark and have "runners or skis" on the bottom to elevate it.
I have to say reading your build thread has been quite entertaining. I'm glad your enjoying your build though, if i had the roomor the tools I wouldn't mind trying a little DIY
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Why not just set it on a Auralex subdude?

interesting idea! I have a bunch of auralex that I'm not using. I could just set it on that. I need to have the sides open so I can slide them over the feet of my Paradigm Prestige towers.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I have to say reading your build thread has been quite entertaining. I'm glad your enjoying your build though, if i had the roomor the tools I wouldn't mind trying a little DIY
Thanks for reading it! I felt like it was falling on deaf-ears at certain points. It's been an adventure. I waited about 6 months to get the right tools. After purchasing some of these tools, I pretty much have to build another pair. I'm sure if I mess up this veneer, I'll be using them even more for a new box :D
 

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Rest assured I was being entertained and have been following along with your triumphs (some) and struggles (some more?)!! Thank you for documenting both the successes and the problems as it helps me and other newbs included!
 
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