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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Gurus


Did anyone tried mounting projector in Wall. I live in apartment and the ideal location is above the big window. Obviously, there is no stud either. Basically, what is the ideal weight limit for drywall (especially NJ apartment) without considering the stud.


I have Optoma HD70 projector and is less than 6 pounds. I plan to put shelf like base for the projector. Shelf and the projector is estimated to be less than 11-15 pounds.


Any other ideas would be helpful


Thanks in advance
 

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There should be a header above a window that you can screw into unless it'll be higher up than that. Drywall alone can hold way more than 15 lbs. But a shelf will exert outward force particularly on the uppermost connections so if you're on hollow drywall, use toggle bolts. They only make a small hole, are rock solid and can be easily removed later.
 

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Personally, I would never trust toggle bolts in drywall for something like that. You're right in that the shelf would present a pulling force on the upper screws. I would mount a small square of 3/4" plywood spanning the studs and mount the shelf to that. The holes would be no worse that than toggle bolts and it could be painted to blend in.


However, now that I've said that, there is just one problem here. The HD70, if mounted near the top of the screen, should be UPSIDE DOWN. If you look at the owners manual, you can see that the image is projected out and up when sitting upright. This is the way MOST projectors are made. If you were to sit on a shelf, right-side up, near the top of the screen, the projector would have to be tilted down so far that you probably would never get a square image. You would not have enough Keystone correction.


If you're not going to go for a ceiling mount mount, then I would go ahead and use the shelf idea but hang the projector upside down from the bottom of the shelf.


You really should look at the owners manual for more guidance. If, for some reason, you don't have it, here it is...

http://www.projectorcentral.com/pdf/...anual_3402.pdf


Oh, and if you do decide to go with a ceiling mount, same thing, use plywood to span the joists and mount to that.
 

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I have my Epson 6100 mounted by the window using drywall anchors and a shelf. Works like a charm and is plenty stable.
 

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Sure, as long as no one leans on it. And accidents can happen.


I know people out there use these anchors, but I can't recommend them. If I did and their projector fell to the ground, well, I don't want to take the chance. So I always temper my recommendations with safety and security in mind.


Bottom line, the guy asks for help, he gets all sort of suggestions and picks the one he likes at his own risk.


BTW, I have to ask...."hotdogwater"?

Quote:
Originally Posted by hotdogwater2 /forum/post/18227549


I have my Epson 6100 mounted by the window using drywall anchors and a shelf. Works like a charm and is plenty stable.
 

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I live in an apt and what I did was nail/screw a peice of 2x10 wood to the sheet rock (don't remember if it's on a stud), put and L bracket on the 2x8, and put another peice of wood (like a shelf) on the L bracket and screwed the PJ to the shelf. Been sitting there for 3 years. I don't have a pic, but here's a diagram




Brown is the wood, blue's the pj, yellows the wall
 

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Agreed that if you can somehow get into the studs, that would be best but if not, toggle bolts will hold that much weight. See this: http://www.factsfacts.com/MyHomeRepa...lfasteners.htm . I wouldn't trust any of the other types of fasteners, though, just the toggle bolts. And use long enough L-brackets on the shelf to distribute the force vertically on the drywall. You could position the L-brackets either above or below the shelf depending on space and/or appearance.
 

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Having said all that I did earlier, I will offer this....

http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php


I've used these for some installations where it was not possible to get the studs or permissible to use external bracing. They work well and I trust them more than any other style. I've used them to hang small JBL speakers in a sports bar with no problems. (Thank goodness)

Quote:
Originally Posted by hms173 /forum/post/18230803


Agreed that if you can somehow get into the studs, that would be best but if not, toggle bolts will hold that much weight. See this: http://www.factsfacts.com/MyHomeRepa...lfasteners.htm . I wouldn't trust any of the other types of fasteners, though, just the toggle bolts. And use long enough L-brackets on the shelf to distribute the force vertically on the drywall. You could position the L-brackets either above or below the shelf depending on space and/or appearance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You Guys Rock. Thanks to everyone.


As I dont have stud in the area where I plan to fix my projector (above window; with an height of 18"-22" from edge of the window to the ceiling).


SnapToggle appears to be promising. But it seems to require drilling a size of 1/2" hole. As its an apartment, I had to figure out if this is something which can be fixed when I move out of the apartment.
 

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HolyHD, don't worry about the drywall in your apartment. That's what the good Lord invented spackle for. Besides, you didn't want all of your security deposit back, right?



I've got my 2000 dollar Optoma HD72 mounted into my apartment ceiling using only four (4) drywall anchors (the plastic, screw-in kind). The pull-down screen is hung with four (4) traditional toggles and two wooden brackets. No studs were drilled into for any of these fly points. Yeah, I used to worry about it falling one night as I slept but after four years I don't worry so much anymore.



The packaging for those drywall anchors spec's them to like 20 lbs. each using 1/2 inch sheetrock and standard stud spacing. I used to have a hanging plant suspended by just one of these (with an old-school, macrame, feng-shui atrocity) that was pushing the limit especially when I watered it. Never came down in 10 years. The HD72 is about 7 lbs. so with four anchors I think there's a bit of overhead. The projector is firm and does not move to the touch, not even a wiggle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks marcusm


Its quite comforting to read ur posting. I do have Optoma HD70, weighing around 5.6 lbs.


What mount did you choose. It would be great if you could attach a picture, if you dont mind. I am not comfortable with ceiling mount. I am planning to mount it in wall.


Today, I came across "Vantage Point CGUPM12-S Universal Front Projector Mount - Silver" in amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Vantage-Point-...7579658&sr=8-1


...good reviews, less weight but pricey though (available in black too). There were other relatively cheap alternative but may be bit heavier. Or, I had to go cheap way with walmart's reasonably less weight shelf and place my projector there (but am not sure if there will be a shake due to subwoofer vibration etc).


I also plan to get elite screens 120" or 130". Atleast for the screen, one side can be supported by stud and the other had to be done using some kind of toggler as suggested by other users here.


I live in NJ and I totally dont trust the quality or strength of the dry wall or ceiling, as most are v.old buildings
 

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Quote:
Its quite comforting to read ur posting. I do have Optoma HD70, weighing around 5.6 lbs.

Believe me, I was sweating bullets when I first hung my brand-new baby. I knew I had 80 lbs. of pull strength from the four anchors but still... That night I was constantly getting up to peek out into the living room to make sure it wasn't on the floor.


Quote:
What mount did you choose. It would be great if you could attach a picture, if you dont mind.

I built my own projector and screen mounts using pinewood, hardware and a little imagination. Admittedly, the projector does move slightly with the changing summer/winter seasons but it's not difficult to adjust. I only wish the mounting design allowed for a symmetrical weight distribution. I have to periodically tighten the two main bolts due to the torque imposed by the projector. C'est la vie.


 

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This is what i did. With 6 dry-wall anchors in place, this shelf was absolutely 100% rock solid. I got the 2 L-brackets and the shelf at Home Depot and the whole thing was extremely inexpensive and worked like a charm.
 

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I have a bunch of wall shelves from ikea in my apartment using drywall mounts and they work without a problem. If possible moount the shelf on the wall instead of the ceiling. This way it'll have pulldown strength rather than pullout. Some lightweight joint compound and a putty knife will fix the hole when you're done worst case you'll have to do a little sanding and painting. but they won't mind because it won't be noticable. I can't tell you how many times i've patched holes in walls in apartments and no one has ever said anything to me. Right now I prob have 50 holes in my current appt using toggle bolts.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheridan1952 /forum/post/18227643


I know people out there use these anchors, but I can't recommend them. If I did and their projector fell to the ground, well, I don't want to take the chance. So I always temper my recommendations with safety and security in mind.

luckily mine is fairly high and above the couch where nobody can reach it. if it was lower and in a higher traffic area, i wouldn't feel nearly as comfortable with the installation

Quote:
Originally Posted by TF Ghost /forum/post/18228002

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post16402936

lol funny that you remember that -- i had forgotten all about it
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Back again, with projector screen mounting question.....


I am planning to get Elite Manual Pulldown screen. Screen is 120" diag [16:9], weighing 24 pounds.


I plan to hang withing the 2 side walls (Not sure, if I could strike on the stud. If its not in the right location, I plan to use either or both of drywall anchors and/or toggle bolt).


Measurements:

Distance between 2 sidewalls : 138"

Projector width (Top Frame) : 109"


I plan to use L-Bracket (walmart; almost weightless). L-Brackets are in 8"x10" or 10"x12" sizes. Then use a chain to connect one end of the screen and the L-Bracket. Could Dry wall hold 24 pounds (12 pounds on each side), suspended by a chain to a L-bracket. Which is best: drywall anchol or togglebolt (which i try to avoid the size of hole it needs(


Also, Sorry to ask naive question, which side of the L-Bracket should be in the wall side - shorter or longer side. Prefer to screw shorter one against the wall to get couple of more inches towards the screen.


My other option is to get Elite Portable Tripod series screen.


Thanks in advance
 

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Why not just span a 2x4 accross the wall and mount your screen to that???? Thats what I did, well I just used two pieces of 2x4 that spanned a section of studs..one on each side......
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for all your response, guys.


My options are:

1. To hang between the side walls.

if pulling down the screen may cause the problem, would electric screen help in this case (atleast there wont be manual pulldown but motorized). May be i have consider the vibration, if any.


2. Tripod Screen. Issue is expensive (but no choice); had to setup screen everytime. May require focus/zoom re-adjustments. (My setup is TV & projector screen in the same location, as I need to share all my audio components).


3. Not sure if this is feasible: as DIY project, i need to create a stand (made of lumber (thick wood) with strong base. Then hang projector between 2 stand. Tomorrow, i plan to visit lowes & homedpot to check on this.



Having tall shelves is not feasible in my case, as i have door in one side of the wall.
 
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