Wall Mounting w/Horizontal Studs

Here's an FYI - I have an interior wall that I want to mount a 50"/52" TV to without having to cut into the wall, but the studs are 48" apart (typically 16" or 24"). To my knowledge there isn't a company that makes wall mounts for this kind of spacing. So I asked the question and got this reply ....



"You might be able to use rectangular steel tubing (something with a

rectangular or square cross-section). That would hold it's shape better

than flat bar. Another option might be to attach 2x4s right to the wall,

but on the outside, and then mount the TV to that. Either of these

options will cause the TV to stick out a bit from the wall, but I think

that is the only way you will be able to wall-mount a TV without tearing

into the wall."


*NOTE* his suggestion is mount horizontal supports on top of the wall and use lagbolts to screw them into the existing vertical studs.

fwiw,


The above are examples of atypical construction.


I believe Clayton are pre-fab homes with metal studs.


The other issue of HORIZONTAL studs might be explained by home-owner modification dividing a space to create two spaces, and the wall was never intended to bear weight (no permit pulled, thus, no standard method used!)


I would re-consider a wall mount trial. Instead, consider buying a floor stand or table mount. Last, resort is to open the drywall and build a box frame interior to the wall on which you will hang the mount.


For those of us with standard construction, but off center studs as I have, I like the idea of applying a plywood facing or 2X10 across the vertical studs exterior to the drywall. For my safety I will consider two sheets of 3/4 plywood for 112# plasma on omnimout because it cantilevers about 26" away from the wall. Its just not a finished, quality look.


I worked construction and do not fear a re-model, know the materials and tools needed. Don't start a project you can't finish!

If I where you I would just cut open the wall. You could stay about 16" from the floor so you dont have to mess around with the baseboard etc, and I would go about 16" above the top of the tv mount or stay just above it a little.


I would then go get some 2x4's toe nail them in the the bottom plate (I would use screws faster and much easier). put them where you need them for the wall mount. Patch up the hole. Thats is of course if you have drywall.


I would like to see a pic also to help you out better I could offer other suggestions with seeing the wall. Thanks


If its really 48" spacing theres something in the wall. Thats why they had to span it that far could be a plumbing wall. That horizontal spacing may not even be tied in to the vertical studs. Might have to open it up to see anyways.


I do metal studs and drywall and there is times you just cant get a stud in the wall and you just use cutoff studs to hold the joint together which they might have done.

Okay gang, Here's the good: I invested $10 and bought a stud finder and found out that yes indeed there are studs every 16" not 48" as originally thought! This opens up a new realm of possibility, specifically a 50"to 52" 1080p mounted on the wall (I'm leaning toward a Samsung 650)! And now the bad.......


the wall is an interior wall between the living room and the bathroom. Waterlines and electrical (GFI) wires run through the wall. The stud finder also picks up the "hot" 110V AC wiring 4"-18" from the actual wiring.


Assuming the 110V wiring runs through the studs, would it be ok/safe/recommended to drill into the studs? Removing the center 4'X8' panel would be cumbersome and labor intensive and not something I'm willing to do. Having it done would prolly prove expensive....


FWIW - I agree I would prolly not be happy w/a 32" and like the a idea of a 50"/52" only nowthe viewing distance increases from 10' to 11.5' because it's a wall mount. The unit was built in 98, is 28' x 52'. The 4'x8' panels are about 1/8" thick and quite rigid (I've never had to remove one). I would guess it to be a manmade material vice wood.

You should be just fine screwing into the studs. Knowing that it is a plubing wall you can take a couple precautions. Find a couple of studs on the wall near the floor with the stud finder--a few feet left or right of where you want to hang the TV. Then take a tape measure and extend it out 12' or so covering the area you want to install the TV on. If you have a construction-ish tape measure there will be a mark (or a red box) on your tape measure every 16". If not, then just line up the end of your tape measure with one stud and let it lay on the floor locked open. Then start testing the studs where you think you will screw in to--verify they are on 16". Does that make sense? For example--stand at the center of where the screen will be. Walk to your left about five feet. Find a stud in the wall. Place the end of the tape measure at that location on the floor and extend the tape measure 8' back the other direction. Now, check the studs at 32", 48", and 64"--are they all right on the numbers?


The point of that is to verify your stud finder is picking up a stud and not water pipes or your vent. It doesn't guarentee anything--but it helps. If the studs seem to move off layout--that is suggesting that a stud may have been moved for plumbing purposes--hopefully you don't run into that. Another thing you can check for is can you tell what kind of fasteners are holding that panel product on? If it is only 1/8" thick it would be pretty difficult to sink a fastener and cover it completely.


Here's a mount:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=182-343


But you will also want to buy some of your own fasteners for hanging the mount onto the screen. Most of the lag bolts that come with universal mounts are counting on at least a 1/2 wallboard of some sort, and they usually make them a little longer in case it is 3/4" or something like that. You really only need a solid inch of bit into the stud--it doesn't seem like much but I'm sure you could hold up your entire TV and mount with a single 1/4" lag bolt with a solid inch of bite. So if you pick up a few 1/4" (3/16" would work as well) lag bolts 1.5" long you will be fine. It is in the electrical code that wires need to be run at least 1" from the edge of a stud--and if they are closer than that then the has to be a metal strike plate over the edge of the stud--in which case you will have a bear of a time trying to get a lag to go in. Again it isn't a guarentee--but nothing is without cutting the wall open.


Any other questions feel free to ask!

For some reason my response from yesterday didn't get posted! Mpotoka thanks for all the info especially the link for the mount! I'm in the market for 60" light cherry tv stand, but compartments (min 6 preferably 9) must be a min of 18" wide. I'm looking at one from homedecorators.com item #43356, but it's only 5 compartments.....


The wall is only 8' wide, 1/2 panel (2') + 1 panel (4') + 1/2 panel wide. Both the L/R walls and bathroom walls use the same material. The baths GFI outlet is about 4' off the floor slightly above the sink. I get a stud indication every 16" from the rightmost panel near the hallway going right to left thru the full panel in the middle. I also get the 110V indicator in the center (full) panel where I want to mount the TV, but not on the side panels.


I can't say what type of fasteners the panels have (as I don't see any) but the panels are rigid about 1/8"-1/4" thick, kind of a hardboard(?). The seams every 4' are covered by a paper type strip that matches the design on the wall panels about 1" wide and 1/8" thick. The panels are mounted lenghtwise bottom to top L to R increasing 7'-10' due to a vaulted ceiling. There is also 6"-8"W accent strip running L to R to keep furniture from rubbing the wall that is nail gunned with brads. Also mock trim running L to R on top and bottom of the panel secured by brads (gunned). The unit is a clayton 28'x52' Dream home model made in 98'.....hope this helps! I didn't see any mention of metal studs in the plans