AVS Forum banner

1 - 20 of 38 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys i have a WD-65C9 that gives me a few seconds of audio before shutting off with a blinking red light. When you hold enter + down it gives an error code of 61, "No LAMP-EN output from the engine to the ballast Bad Color Wheel (Loose J6 or J7 connector)". So i replaced the color wheel, and i still get the same error.


With the back off i can see that none of the fans are spinning, and i don't hear the color wheel. It's about as dead as can be. Any ideas? As I'm at a loss on how to proceed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not yet, but i seem to remember that the fans start first, then the color wheel, and finally the lamp. I'll order one up, but I'm getting nothing back there. Someone mentioned to check the caps on the power supply, and after a close visual inspection I can't find any signs of bloating or anything. I went back and checked J6 and J7 just be be sure without any luck as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
782 Posts
Maybe a safety switch not made?

Did you check for power anywhere?

Have you verified NOTE: Do not twist the ribbon cable to J6 (the shiny silver

contacts must be facing up).



I know where there are lots of parts
But, hard to say without seeing it as to what would be needed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hmm safety switch? like the lamp door switch? when it's not engaged the front LED blinks orange.

Nothings working outside of the little LED on the front thats mocking me. The audio was too but, i unplugged the cable box when i moved the TV out.

I pulled it out, and did it again just to make sure the contacts were facing up.


Sorry its been a minute i actually had jury duty in downtown Detroit of all places..... LOL! but anyway since the last episode I replaced the lamp (OEM), lamp ballast, and the PWB-POWER board which happened to be on sale for 20 bucks so i figured what the heck. The end result being no change in anything



Sailing further down the error codes i see "Code 61 - No Lamp Enable is received at the PWB-MAIN and Ballast.". Assuming the MAIN board is functioning correctly, does that mean that the Optical engine is telling the MAIN board not to flip the switch? Or does that mean the MAIN board is not getting the enable signal from the engine at all? Either way it sounds like it's the Engine board right? I mean there isn't much else to the thing but the board, lens, and the color wheel. It also looks like the board controls the fans as well.


If my math adds up got one of those boards?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
782 Posts
I take it as the main and ballast do not see the lamp enable signal - which makes sense because for the lamp enable signal to come, the color wheel and everything else has to be on and working.


You aren't getting anything at all correct? No color wheel movement, any fans, anything?


Did you check all your fuses and voltages on the PS?

Did you do a reset?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nothings doing anything back there

No i don't have a multimeter handy, but i installed a brand new power supply when i put in the new bulb and ballast.

Just did a reset (held power for 8 seconds) it rebooted, and there was no change. Gives the same error code.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yep kept all the old parts because i figure since theres nothing really wrong with them they could be useful down the line.

Absolutely no change what so ever.

I'm gonna borrow or buy a multimeter this weekend, i probably should have gotten one when this all started.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
782 Posts
The no fans I think is a major clue, I didn't look at the manual. I wonder if the power to turn on the fans and the color wheel come from the same source?


I wonder if you have an open thermal sensor.


Check your DVI cable too.


You should have 5V at the color wheel and VCC and gnd at the fans - not sure what VCC stands for. I only see 12V and 3.3V coming into the light engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
782 Posts
Is the firmware on that board or another, might want to check the firmware and see if it is the current one. If I am not mistaken there was a firmware update on this model that was fairly important - could be wrong though
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts

Hello!

 

I was doing a search online to see what I could do with my Mitsubishi WD60737 and came across this forum and your problem.

 

My similar problem started a few weeks ago after having my DLP chip changed by my local Mitsubishi authorized service repairman. I was getting those white dots on the screen, and Mitsubishi provided a new DLP chip.  The day after the chip was replaced my TV screen went black.  When I turn the TV on the status light turns flashing green.  When the light goes solid green, the TV is on, but no picture just sound.  After about 30 seconds, the TV shuts down and status bar flashes red. While all of this is going on, I never hear a fan going.  I thought it might be the bulb--even though the light was flashing red--so I ordered a new light.  It has been two years since I changed the bulb.  I was hoping it was the bulb, but when I put the new one in today, I got the same results--no picture and the TV shuts off in about 20 seconds.

 

I already paid $212 to have the chip replaced and $147 for the bulb from Mitsubishi.  Those bulb prices went up since the last time I got one.  It does look like the same bulb I bought from them two years ago.

 

When I do a check for the status code for a flashing red light--#61 is the code--"No LAMP-EN output from the engine to the ballast" it looks like a bad color wheel. If the J6 or J7 are loose is this something that can be fixed without changing the entire color wheel.  I hate to spend more money on parts for this TV when their is no guarantee that it is going to get fixed.

 

Also is there any chance that changing the DLP chip has contributed to this problem?

 

Also I was never able to do the software upgrade for this TV and since the TV will not stay on any longer than 20 seconds there is no chance of doing that now.  Could that be a problem.  Mitsubishi told me to try to install the new software, but like I said, the TV won't stay on long enough for me to do that.

 

ANY SUGGESTIONS?

 

THANKS!

 

Janet O
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I actually asked this question on a few sites, and pacofortacos was the only one to even attempt to help me. Sadly I'm no expert on TVs, but I'll do my best to help. It sounds to me like you have the exact same problem as I had so I would change the formatter board. I have no idea if changing the DLP chip caused your problem, but the formatter board is what the DLP chip plugs into so who knows. Now, before the color wheel goes it makes a bunch of racket so if you didn't hear anything out of the ordinary lets just rule that out. The good news I have for you is that i found this TV amazingly simple to work on. Just unscrew the lower back, unplug the connectors, unscrew the engine, and pull the whole thing out. I think those J connectors/plugs were on top of the formatter board as well so its possible they came loose when the guy did the repair, but i wouldn't bet on it.

http://www.shopjimmy.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Mitsubishi+WD60737 This place has just about everything for these TV's


Also you shouldn't have much problem finding an OEM Phillips lamp with housing for around $100 bucks online so I wouldn't go thought Mitsubishi anymore.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
782 Posts
Jaylo 54, you never know if a connection came loose while they were in there. I am assuming though, that the tv worked after they were done.


I would call Mitsubishi and the repairman back and ask them for further guidance as it happened the day after they touched it. See what they say. If they don't offer to fix it for free then you can try doing it if you are comfortable repairing the tv - there really isn't much in there.


I have 2 spare chassis here, so of course mine will never break!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hey paco! You know I could actually use your advice myself. My TV developed this wonky discoloration at the top of the screen. I dunno... color wheel, chip, lens? Any ideas on this one?

 
1 - 20 of 38 Posts
Top