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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgveteran /forum/post/20980256


Is there a guide somewhere on the web for more elaborate meters and software like the ChromaPure/ i3 (440.00).....


I would hate to have to step by step in the forum by owners of the Chroma bundle people. Thats alot of money to shell out and have to rely on the unknown..


Picking up a copy of the BR DVE is easy, but running through the software correctly with out a tutorial...hmmmm


Thats why the cheap free software and 99.00 meter was such a great deal
http://www.curtpalme.com/docs/ChromaPureManual.pdf


BTW, if you give it some time and ask questions whenever you get confused you should be able to calibrate your display without too much trouble. Once you grasp the basics, you can learn more advanced aspects of calibration and both ChromaPure and CalMAN are very user friendly once you get familiar with the way the software is setup.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgveteran /forum/post/20980256



Picking up a copy of the BR DVE is easy, but running through the software correctly with out a tutorial...hmmmm


Thats why the cheap free software and 99.00 meter was such a great deal

The red tint left by that price range of meter will probably bother you though. The picture should look better overall but it will still be off from the results you can get with a better, more expensive meter. You really do get what you pay for in this market.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgveteran /forum/post/20980256


Is there a guide somewhere on the web for more elaborate meters and software like the ChromaPure/ i3 (440.00).....


I would hate to have to step by step in the forum by owners of the Chroma bundle people. Thats alot of money to shell out and have to rely on the unknown..


Picking up a copy of the BR DVE is easy, but running through the software correctly with out a tutorial...hmmmm


Thats why the cheap free software and 99.00 meter was such a great deal

So you can learn how to use free software with a fairly inaccurate meter but you won't be able to figure out how to use the higher quality more user friendly purchased software and a more accurate meter without a movie to show you how?


If you want to learn how to use the software, download the user guide before you buy it and read it. I have the 87 page Chromapure users guide printed out in a 3 ring binder for light reading whilst sitting on the Throne.

I am confident I will be able use the software but I don't expect to be proficient without considerable trial and error practice. I will be leaning software and the process of adjusting the different settings of the projector and how these adjustment interact with each other and alter the image. There are many things to lean, the users guide gives you the things to adjust and the order, as well as detailed instructions on using the software, it is up to us to learn what these adjustments are in detail and how they interact and effect each other and the image. All of which can be done to some extent before any purchase.

We will also need to learn what the image looks like when a particular setting is not correct, none of the software tells you what to do, just what the current value(s) are and a graph of some sort to be able to visualize what is going on.

There is a reason why DIY calibrators call this a Hobby.. it is time consuming and addictive.

As for the time to perform a calibration? The Pro that did my projector showed up at 9PM and left my home at 2:30AM.. There was a lot of time talking and setting up but the procedure was very time consuming. You change a value and get it correct, then you have to go back and recheck everything that was done prior, readjust them as needed and recheck your last change. He knew what he was doing and how to work the software and had a $7000 K10 meter that is very fast and accurate and it still took many hours


So if you want to save some money, you have to spend some time, be it with free software or purchased software. If you can't commit to the needed study time, help out America and hire someone to do it and forget DIY.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Hey Doug,


Naw, its not quite like that for me, I'll end up getting it, like i got TrueRta for my audio system......i hate my learning curve Lol.


As long as i can get my hands on some instructions i should be fine, looks like there's enough out there.
 

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Discussion Starter #65

Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U /forum/post/20980579

http://www.curtpalme.com/docs/ChromaPureManual.pdf


BTW, if you give it some time and ask questions whenever you get confused you should be able to calibrate your display without too much trouble. Once you grasp the basics, you can learn more advanced aspects of calibration and both ChromaPure and CalMAN are very user friendly once you get familiar with the way the software is setup.

Thanx Plasma...PDF's look great on my ipad, cool !!!!!
 

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I am in this boat as well. I'm not looking for perfection, rather looking in to if absolute min expense is worth the effort over nothing at all.


Are the display 2/LT's locked in the same way that the 3's are? In other words, could one pick up a retail version and it work with not only HCFP, but chroma and cal as well?


If one were to decide to dive in a little deeper after the above...would getting chroma or cal yield any further gain over HCFP using the same low end meter?


Would any of this using that particular meter be worthwhile over using the AVS DVD with simple color filters but no meter?




This is my situation....


I had noticed how cheap lower end meters have become and began thinking about grabbing a retail

Anyhow, I have a panasonic GT25 plasma, adjusted using the AVS DVD slides and color filters. I am happy with the way the set looks, but as you can imagine, gray scale and the like could be better.


If even a cheap meter like the display 2 can make a nice impact on the set using HCFP, then I may get the bug to try chroma or cal as an interim step, then on to a better meter like display 3 should I decide to go after perfection. Otherwise, I think I will end up leaving the TV alone and just get the new retail colormunki (which appears to be the retail crippled display 3) for not a whole lot more then the display 2 and simply use it with my computers as originally intended. I simply dont want to turn a ~150 computer monitor project into a $500 tv project simply on the notion you can use a meter on both...but if I can include putting the toes in the water toying with the tv for no additional cost, then I certainly am down for that. With the display 2, seems like it's the most ideal situation. It can be had around $100 now, and while being the clearly lessor meter these days, if it yields a good improvement despite that, i think it would be well worth the price of admission if it can be used on both computer with it's included software and tv's with HCFR.
 

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 This is the cheapest version of the i1 Display 2/LT.


You should be able to use it with ColorHCFR, CalMAN, or ChromaPure as it is the same hardware as the i1 D2/LT. You can try it out to see if the results are good enough to your eyes and if you don't like it you could either return it or just keep it since it is so cheap.
 

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I had a spyder II and a colormunki ( but the pod version that's basically an Eye1Display 2 but locked) and finally the Eye1 Display 2 lt.


I thought I was getting somewhere (finally) with the Eye1LT but now I don't trust anymore and I'm tired of the whole game.


Getting a cheap meter that you can't trust.... not worth it.


I have settings I like and someday I know I'll get right back into the game but for now I just watch content.


-Brian
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U /forum/post/20989333

This is the cheapest version of the i1 Display 2/LT.


You should be able to use it with ColorHCFR, CalMAN, or ChromaPure as it is the same hardware as the i1 D2/LT. You can try it out to see if the results are good enough to your eyes and if you don't like it you could either return it or just keep it since it is so cheap.

No, HCFR does NOT work with that meter. Maybe CalMan and/or ChromaPure but going with them you are spending enough to just get them packaged with the unlocked Eye1D2.
 

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If I want to just do a amateur calibration of my monitors/laptop monitor and televisions, can I just buy a colormunki display and use the software/ free software (does the hcfr support it?). What about recalibration? When do I have to and is it necessary if I'm not doing any professional work?
 

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HCFR doesn't work with ColorMunki. (Even the ColorMunki pod meters that are basically Eye1Display2LT's with locked Firmware.)


If you're not doing "professional work" than of course you can do whatever you want. I think the real concern is are you getting useful results?


=Brian
 

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I just want to have the monitors and tvs in my home calibrated to acceptable levels since I have never ever had anything calibrated before (feel's like I'm wasting the potential of the screens if I don't...) The low budget items are the only things i can afford (like spyder3). Are they even worth getting? Will I be getting noticeable results as it seems they lose their accuracy over time (will i be actually making my displays worse in look when i adjust them with that loss in accuracy?). Anything you guys recommend that's 100-200 that can do both TVs and monitors? Or should I not even bother if I can't get the more expensive tools.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by shisnitty /forum/post/20991355


I just want to have the monitors and tvs in my home calibrated to acceptable levels since I have never ever had anything calibrated before (feel's like I'm wasting the potential of the screens if I don't...) The low budget items are the only things i can afford (like spyder3). Are they even worth getting? Will I be getting noticeable results as it seems they lose their accuracy over time (will i be actually making my displays worse in look when i adjust them with that loss in accuracy?). Anything you guys recommend that's 100-200 that can do both TVs and monitors? Or should I not even bother if I can't get the more expensive tools.

As mentioned, I dont expect perfection by any means without appropriate equipment, but wonder if even the cheap stuff is better then no stuff. My main intent is to even out my LCD computer monitors. I had intended on the retail colormunki display (the crippled/slower i1display 3), but since that is no good for tv stuff, looks like I am going to step down to the display 2 so I can play with the tv as well.


The TV is adjusted to the furthest extent possible using AVS DVD slides and color filters and does look pretty good, but there is still plenty of room left for improvement as there are things that simply cant be accomplished propperly without a meter, nevermind getting what has been tweaked dialed in tighter using actual number readings vs eyeballing through filters and such. That said, since even that basic level of adjusting yielded a pretty decent picture as it is, I am curious if a cheap meter can really provide a significant improvement beyond what I have done. On one hand I want to say yes, but on the other I have a feeling that while final settings will likely change, it may not yield more then a very minor noticeable improvement in actual viewing if any.


I am pretty decided that for $100 for the meter, I will give it a shot. If it accomplishes what I want with my computer monitors, then I really dont care how it ultimately stacks up with the tv. In other words, it did what I bought it for, and if it improves the picture on my tv, then that is bonus. I would order it now and let everyone know how it worked out when I got it, but unfortunately I am out of the country for a couple more weeks, so it will be a few weeks before I give it a shot.


Oh...and for anyone familiar with panasonic plasma....I keep seeing that the new 2011 sets are a pain to calibrate, but other mentions that panasonic plasmas are easy. What about the GT25's? Is it one of the pain in the butt ones since it's more or less an inbetween 2010.5 set that may have some of what makes the new ones bad to work with, or is it still one of the easy ones?
 

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I appreciate you doing that for us c17, as I feel similarly as well. But maybe someone here who has tried calibrations with these budget ones can be able to tell us his or her results so you don't have to risk it
 

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I just picked up an i1LT having read the Greyscale tutorial and then discovered having done a little more research that I may have done better buying something else, LOL.


Well my i1LT as warned does have a red bias to its callibration results which leaves skin tones over cooked. However, I found an offset matrix on this forum which of course isn't set for my particular i1LT but seems to provide a far better subjective balance to the callibration than stock.


Its still not accuarate though and clearly I can still see a very slight green tint in skin tones. I havent tried to adjust the colours yet though.


The thing is though, the subjective outcome is immesurably better than anything I could achive just using my eyes and I had become very fed up with the PQ of my plasma. As a lay person I'm quite pleased with the result even if its not accurate.


Now how long it will be before I start lusting for absolute accuracy I don't, if I keep reading this forum no doubt not long! LOL...


If I was to buy another budget meter I would go for the Spider3 as I hear they are more accurate than they used to be.


But having got a bit into this now I would go for the xrite pro and be done with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
I've read through the ChromaPure manual and like everything, it looks straight forward Har,Har....


I will be rolling over the cost of the i3pro into the projector cost. I figure over the life of the bulb i can do routine recalibrations once i get it down.


I remember the first time a ran sweeps of my current subwoofer using TrueRta and it was astonishing how easy it was to calibrate /tweak the system.


Now i have to run all this by the finance office hahahahahahaha....you guys have one of those ?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by airscapes /forum/post/20980622



There is a reason why DIY calibrators call this a Hobby.. it is time consuming and addictive.

I really laughed when I read this. I bought a i1Display2 for $100, got HFCR, and started with curtpalme's Greyscale and Colour Guide for Dummies. The Greyscale went fine, and then I descended into CMS hell for a week or so. There's a saying I really like which definitely applies here: "Experience is how you avoid mistakes, but making mistakes is how you gain experience."


It took me quite a while to begin to get the hang of how the different CMS controls interacted with one another, with greyscale/white point settings, and with the top level controls (contrast, brightness, color, tint). Following rote instructions is a start, but I had to get a feel for the interactions and what my particular TV can and cannot do. BTW, I am working with a Sharp LC-60LE633U. Reading Poynton's FAQ and generally searching around this forum helped me understand the "processing" flow from the disk to the TV, the processes necessary to reproduce accurately, and how the different controls influenced the different steps in the processing. Also the spreadsheets that calculate error and Luminance corrections for non-standard gamuts are quite useful.


My main discovery is that if the primaries are quite close to the correct xyY, then the hue, sat, value (HSV) controls work the way that you expect them to and are somewhat independent of one another (as you would wish they always were). So when you are close enough, it is easy to get right on target. OTH, getting close may require some odd excursions in H,S,V space. Luckily, you can tell when you are getting close, because not only is xyY moving in the right direction, but the controls themselves are starting to behave themselves again.


Last night, a good friend asked me, with some frustration, "How long does it take to calibrate?" I told him that it takes until I am not having any fun.


Alan
 

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kg,

you can also download CalMAN and have a feel of how the software work. It won't work on an actual meter of course, but just a simulated one. However, you will get a feel of the workflow, the button, properties, create your page etc...

To me, the best you can start off is get a used i1D2 and HCFR (this is like using REW and RS meter)... Then, if you believe this hobby is for you, then you are like most of us, dig deeper into higher-end colorimeter (and also spectrometer), more advance features like auto-calibration etc... and then you probably are still not satisfied and then come back to the forum every day to see if there is anything new, or show us your nice graph/result and be pleased. BTW, it really give you a sense of satisfaction when you see you have done near perfect grayscale and CMS (even though going from dE 2.0 to dE 0.2 probably does nothing to your already amazing pics
).
 
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