[mj79]

I can't decide at all what to do. If you were in my shoes what would YOU do. I want the best setup to fill the room with deep low bass. And the bdge is still ... $400. Or so. I would love a 15 but dunno how big they are.. Usually a 24x24x24 enclosure is 8 cubic feet before sub and port displacement. Well the room I'm putting them in is open. The room itself is 16x20 but he bar is also a part of the downstairs. So the total area would be about 18'x30



I can always build. But you said aa had some very good fully loaded enclosures for about 180 shipped. And 180 wouldn't even get me a titanic 15. But I do want the ultra low end.


Soo.... To get the most for my money.


1-15

two cheaper 15s

2 -12s

2 very nice 10s


I have just been given so many excellent options on here and really can not decide what to do


and like I said I am a carpenter so if I build it will be a well made solid enclosure as I have build everything in car audio from sealed , 4th order bandpasses, ported and fiberglass


I just want to make sure that if I'm building the enclosure that the equiptment is superior to those of a loaded enclosure. Otherwise I just kind of wasted time and money to build something that a fully loaded enclosure was just as good as for less $$.


This is very hard to wonder what to do ESPECIALLY when you have the money and arE ready to order.

 

[Jay1]

You can easily build a $400 sub that will be better then anything commercially available for that price. I think your volume calculations are off, those dimensions would be about 6.5 ft3 internal (.75" material).


A Dayton DVC385-88 and Bash 300W amp would cost $300, leaving you $100 for wood and stuff. Not sure if a 24" cube is your box requirement or not, but lessening the height and width would allow for a longer port (deeper bass), a 22"x22"x30" (.75" material) box with a pair or 4"x26" ports would get you 110 db at 20hz.

 

[Thatsnasty]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 /forum/post/16873235


You can easily build a $400 sub that will be better then anything commercially available for that price. I think your volume calculations are off, those dimensions would be about 6.5 ft3 internal (.75" material).


A Dayton DVC385-88 and Bash 300W amp would cost $300, leaving you $100 for wood and stuff. Not sure if a 24" cube is your box requirement or not, but lessening the height and width would allow for a longer port (deeper bass), a 22"x22"x30" (.75" material) box with a 6"x26" port would get you 110 db at 20hz.

I wouldn't say "better then anything" commercially. An A2-300 is $350 bucks with shipping included. 110db at 20hz is almost exactly what it is rated for as well. I really don't think someone who is relatively new to DIY will make something that sounds as good as a pre-built sub.

 

[Jay1]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Thatsnasty /forum/post/16873254


I wouldn't say "better then anything" commercially. An A2-300 is $350 bucks with shipping included. 110db at 20hz is almost exactly what it is rated for as well. I really don't think someone who is relatively new to DIY will make something that sounds as good as a pre-built sub.

You really believe a 200W 12" sub has that kind of output at 20hz

Here's the actual measured output of the ED sub from craigsub

Its only about 16 db off from 110 at 20 hz

The guy said he's a carpenter, all he needs is the proper box volume and port dimensions for the woofer being used, which I gave him. Its not hard to imagine a large efficient woofer, in a large efficient enclosure, having significant performance advantages compared to the tiny commercial offerings in this price range.

 

[mj79]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Thatsnasty /forum/post/16873254


I wouldn't say "better then anything" commercially. An A2-300 is $350 bucks with shipping included. 110db at 20hz is almost exactly what it is rated for as well. I really don't think someone who is relatively new to DIY will make something that sounds as good as a pre-built sub.

I was looking at the eD as well but was told the AA will have better output and low end. ....????


As for enclosure building I have about 50+ enclosures under my belt in car audio. And ive been a carpenter for about 12 years now. So I might build but was told that especially for a 15 the AA was the way to go at 270. I was originally gonna do a titanic 12 or 15 with a 500 watt amp. Then more options started pouring in. There is so many options is sick diy , fully loaded, all the differnt and good brands for under 400. Ugh



Now I have a Polk psw10 and can't stand it so weak on the low end and not real loud either. And the port noise is ridiculous.


So I need to do something quick.

 

[Jay1]



Quote:
Originally Posted by mj79 /forum/post/16873303


I was looking at the eD as well but was told the AA will have better output and low end. ....????


As for enclosure building I have about 50+ enclosures under my belt in car audio. And ive been a carpenter for about 12 years now. So I might build but was told that especially for a 15 the AA was the way to go at 270. I was originally gonna do a titanic 12 or 15 with a 500 watt amp. Then more options started pouring in. There is so many options is sick diy , fully loaded, all the differnt and good brands for under 400. Ugh



Now I have a Polk psw10 and can't stand it so weak on the low end and not real loud either. And the port noise is ridiculous.


So I need to do something quick.

Is your budget just for the driver and amp?

 

[mj79]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 /forum/post/16873299


You really believe a 200W 12" sub has that kind of output at 20hz

Here's the actual measured output of the ED sub from craigsub

Its only about 16 db off from 110 at 20 hz

The guy said he's a carpenter, all he needs is the proper box volume and port dimensions for the woofer being used, which I gave him. Its not hard to imagine a large efficient woofer, in a large efficient enclosure, having significant performance advantages compared to the tiny commercial offerings in this price range.

Thanks man. I dunno is there a chart for the hd15? Alot of people push them as a good buy at the price. But then again the numbers show it all. Basically wether I build or buy idont care. I want the hardest hitting tightest , deepest sub I can get for under 400. But the thing thT worries me is the trial and error part of box building. I don't have a ton to spend on mdf etc, so if I picked up a driver and plate amp I would want the best possible enclosure for that sub. Not really just a random guess on volume and tuning

 

[michael hurd]

That's a pretty no brainer if you have built boxes before. Why on earth would you consider a pair of 10's if you can buy a 15 that has more displacement>?

Big room = big horsepower. You wouldn't use a 1.5 liter Civic engine in a dumptruck.


18 x 30 x 8 ( if you have 8 foot ceilings ) is 4320 cu ft. I would go with a single 15 as a bare minimum.


Budget is $ 400... have you any size constraints for the enclosure>? The parts express bash 500 watt plate amp is $228 shipped ( out of stock at the moment ) If you budget two sheets of 3/4 MDF, that will set you back $ 50ish.


That leaves you $ 122 for a driver. Mach5 audio in Winnipeg MB Canada sells some low cost 15 and 18" drivers.


Depending on the exchange rate ( if you live in the US, which I assume ) you may be able to get a deal on one. 1 U.S $ = $ 1.10 CDN today. Shipping IS included in the driver cost. ( North America ) The MJ-18M would be close to $ 160 USD with the exchange rate. About $ 40 overbudget, but if you have to wait for an amp... you could skip a coffee a day for a month.


If you already have enclosure materials on hand, you can spend a bit more for a driver. It's all relative.


Build a big vented box, here are some links to other people that have used the MJ-18M. 6-12 cu ft net, with a median tuning around 20 hz.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...-database.html

 

[Thatsnasty]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 /forum/post/16873299



Its only about 16 db off from 110 at 20 hz

The guy said he's a carpenter, all he needs is the proper box volume and port dimensions for the woofer being used, which I gave him. Its not hard to imagine a large efficient woofer, in a large efficient enclosure, having significant performance advantages compared to the tiny commercial offerings in this price range.

Well that helps, haha, touche.


I'd really like to try DIY myself sometime, but after spending money on a driver, amp, and box, I'm not confident it would sound great. The boxes people make always seem better

, with internal bracing and what not.

 

[Jay1]



Quote:
Originally Posted by mj79 /forum/post/16873324


Thanks man. I dunno is there a chart for the hd15? Alot of people push them as a good buy at the price. But then again the numbers show it all. Basically wether I build or buy idont care. I want the hardest hitting tightest , deepest sub I can get for under 400. But the thing thT worries me is the trial and error part of box building. I don't have a ton to spend on mdf etc, so if I picked up a driver and plate amp I would want the best possible enclosure for that sub. Not really just a random guess on volume and tuning

I guess you just have to have faith in modeling software and supplied TS parameters when building DIY subs. The good thing about large vented enclosures is modest differences in volume don't really change things much. I modeled that sub with the same port dimensions from 6.9 ft3 (box volume with nothing subtracted) all the way down to 6 ft3 and the tuning only change a little more then 1 hz.

 

[mj79]



Quote:
Originally Posted by michael hurd /forum/post/16873329


That's a pretty no brainer if you have built boxes before. Why on earth would you consider a pair of 10's if you can buy a 15 that has more displacement>?

Big room = big horsepower. You wouldn't use a 1.5 liter Civic engine in a dumptruck.


18 x 30 x 8 ( if you have 8 foot ceilings ) is 4320 cu ft. I would go with a single 15 as a bare minimum.


Budget is $ 400... have you any size constraints for the enclosure>? The parts express bash 500 watt plate amp is $228 shipped ( out of stock at the moment ) If you budget two sheets of 3/4 MDF, that will set you back $ 50ish.


That leaves you $ 122 for a driver. Mach5 audio in Winnipeg MB Canada sells some low cost 15 and 18" drivers.


Depending on the exchange rate ( if you live in the US, which I assume ) you may be able to get a deal on one. 1 U.S $ = $ 1.10 CDN today. Shipping IS included in the driver cost. ( North America ) The MJ-18M would be close to $ 160 USD with the exchange rate. About $ 40 overbudget, but if you have to wait for an amp... you could skip a coffee a day for a month.


If you already have enclosure materials on hand, you can spend a bit more for a driver. It's all relative.


Build a big vented box, here are some links to other people that have used the MJ-18M. 6-12 cu ft net, with a median tuning around 20 hz.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...-database.html

I am kind of limited for space. Not in general. But just to the point that I couLd not tuck a 6+ cf enclosure somewhere. Which is why I was thinking about doing 2 -12 or 1-15" AA HD sub.


The only thing that I would not be sure about is the finish work. I like the glosslook or a good wood look. Mdf is a pain to paint and I have a cat so vinyl is probably out to.


NoThing good to say on the AA stuff?? I'm assuming with my current Polk psw 10 nomatter what I do I'll be much happier

 

[Jay1]



Quote:
Originally Posted by mj79 /forum/post/16873417


I am kind of limited for space. Not in general. But just to the point that I couLd not tuck a 6+ cf enclosure somewhere. Which is why I was thinking about doing 2 -12 or 1-15" AA HD sub.


The only thing that I would not be sure about is the finish work. I like the glosslook or a good wood look. Mdf is a pain to paint and I have a cat so vinyl is probably out to.


NoThing good to say on the AA stuff?? I'm assuming with my current Polk psw 10 nomatter what I do I'll be much happier

Are you talking about one of these subs? The specs sound kind of BS, smallish ported box with 20hz response, 99db sensitivity! Never heard of them though

 

[michael hurd]



Quote:
Originally Posted by mj79 /forum/post/16873417


I am kind of limited for space. Not in general. But just to the point that I couLd not tuck a 6+ cf enclosure somewhere. Which is why I was thinking about doing 2 -12 or 1-15" AA HD sub.


The only thing that I would not be sure about is the finish work. I like the glosslook or a good wood look. Mdf is a pain to paint and I have a cat so vinyl is probably out to.


NoThing good to say on the AA stuff?? I'm assuming with my current Polk psw 10 nomatter what I do I'll be much happier

If you have $ 400 to spend, but you don't want to go with anything larger than 6 cu ft, forget about it getting loud and low. You might put together something that will get loud, but roll off high. Or you might make something that goes low, but not even close to loud enough.


Hoffman's Iron Law: Scroll down to read.

http://ldsg.snippets.org/appdx-a.php

 

[lennon_68]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Thatsnasty /forum/post/16873254


I wouldn't say "better then anything" commercially. An A2-300 is $350 bucks with shipping included. 110db at 20hz is almost exactly what it is rated for as well. I really don't think someone who is relatively new to DIY will make something that sounds as good as a pre-built sub.

I know you've already been "put in your place"

But wanted to pipe in with my DIY version of the A2-300 - same driver, comparable amp. It's ugly as sin (but then again the A2-300 isn't much of a looker either) but actually outperforms the A2-300 (I can build it BIG without having to worry about being able to ship it

). The total $$ invested: $175 each (I'm building 4 of them to sell off to recoup my $$ for the next upgrade).


I see jay posted a FR chart of an A2-300, I'm thinking that must be an outdoor measurement (and I know that's what he quoted for the 15" sub he was suggesting - the simulated anechoic response) but this knockoff can do 105dB flat down around 17hz in room (it's tuned to 17hz)...



(it's the slot ported one on the right...)

 

[Jay1]

lennon_68, very nice. I have no doubt that your much larger enclosure has better low end response.

 

[Gelinas]

lennon_68, thats a pretty cool picture you have of your kid enjoying the sub while holding a SPL meter. I bet you're gonna love that pic when your kid is all grown up.

 

[lennon_68]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Gelinas /forum/post/16874810


lennon_68, thats a pretty cool picture you have of your kid enjoying the sub while holding a SPL meter. I bet you're gonna love that pic when your kid is all grown up.

Thanks! I'll love it but I think she may hate it

She likes to feel the subwoofer vibrating. Here's another one I took at the same time, it looks like she's really helping out. I was testing the sub out with the Foster plate amp I ordered from Jack Hidley, you can see the plate amp on the enclosure in this one:

 

[penngray]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Thatsnasty /forum/post/16873254


I wouldn't say "better then anything" commercially. An A2-300 is $350 bucks with shipping included. 110db at 20hz is almost exactly what it is rated for as well. I really don't think someone who is relatively new to DIY will make something that sounds as good as a pre-built sub.

The A2-300 has distortion at 110dB @ 20Hz

btw, if someone has the tools and can follow instructions its extremely easy to beat commercial when you pick any price target.


Generally there are HUGE sales that happen every couple of months and we can buy drivers for a fraction of the price. Just add a cheap pro amp and you have a system that measures and sounds as good as commercial choices 3 to 4 times the price.


two things you have to realize though....


1. cheap/good bass means HUGE box!!

2. Finish may not be that special.