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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to create a dedicated home theater in my unfinished basement. I have 14.5' wide x 16' long x 8' high room with no windows and two of the walls are made from poured concrete.


I was thinking of putting 120" screen with two rows of 4 seats but after reading some information on the forum it seems I may not be able to fit two rows. What seating options are available for this size theater? I would like to have seating for 6 at least.


Also I have some some Definitive Technology BP2000 towers with subs built-in , matching center and surrounds that I would like to incorporate into the room if it's possible. Could I place these bi-polar towers behind the screen wall like I see some of you are doing? Towers are 18" deep so how much room do I need for the screen wall? Do I need to raise them off the stage or can they be placed directly on the stage behind the screen?


So far I been able to outline my steps to build the HT as:

1. Build Stage

2. Build Screen Wall

3. Do Wiring (electrical & speakers; 7.1?)

4. Insulate

5. Drywall & Mud (double 5/8" ?)

6. Install columns for look at side surrounds

7. Paint

8. Install Screen & Projector.


Did I forget anything? Can anyone help me further refine this outline of tasks?


Thank you.
 

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At 16' long, I don't think you can have two rows of seating with a screen that large (your front row will be too close). Also, I see you want to build a screen wall and that will make your usable length even less.


Regarding that screen wall: ours is 36" from the front wall which is concrete. That concrete wall is covered from floor to ceiling with 1" Certainteed Ultraduct Gold and then out the sides floor to ceiling to the screen wall. The best thing I did in our theater to improve the quality was the acoustic treatment. Like most people who build their own theaters, I used a compressed fiberglass insulation that is used in the HVAC industry. It extends from the floor up to 48" on the two sides and the back wall. There are quite a few products that are suitable such as Linacoustic, OC 703, Certainteed Ultraduct Gold and the list goes on. You'll then need to cover it with a fabric like Guilford of Maine or Dazian Expo Cloth. You can also buy or make individual panels and mount them at primary reflection points. One other thing I almost forgot are bass traps. Behind the screen wall I simply stacked rolls of OC insulation in the corners all the way to the ceiling. It took 4-5 rolls for each corner. That works quite well and there is no need to remove the plastic wrapper. I have a commercial high density foam corner trap in the rear of the HT for aesthetics. However, you could stack foam insulation there too and just wrap them in fabric. The other thing you need to consider early is the lighting. It's also nice to have a separate breaker for the room.
 

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Actually, a bar counter in the rear would be a good idea, as Pilgrim linked.


My room is 14'-2"" x 16'-8" (face of the screen to the back wall), and I have squeezed two rows in. It's not a big room at all, but it works for what we want to do with it.
 

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For a room that size, I might consider putting the screen on a 16' wall and do a longer single row of seats.


Depending on the style and configuration, you could probably fit a single row of 5-6 seats (berklines) at about a 13' eye distance.


If not that, I'd also consider the bar for the second row.
 

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You can get away with 2 rows if you forgo the screenwall and put the screen on the reular wall. My room ends up being about 16' after my false wall and my screen is 120" 2:35 screen. My first row is right at 9'-9'5 with a 73" riser behind it.


I have the berkline 13175's which are comfy, modest width and tall backs while maintaining a small foot print. My room is 11'5" wide and I was able to do a row of 4 in the back and 3 in the front. We enter from the front of the room though.
 

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 http://www.rtheaters.com/berkline/


Here is a link to a popular vendor who participates on the forum and whom many of us have gotten seats from. Besides the 13175's there are a couple of other options which have a similar foot print. With a 14.5 foot width and a row of four 75's that would leave you about 27" at either side for aisles enough IMO for entry exit.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 /forum/post/15570435


You can get away with 2 rows if you forgo the screenwall and put the screen on the reular wall. My room ends up being about 16' after my false wall and my screen is 120" 2:35 screen. My first row is right at 9'-9'5 with a 73" riser behind it.


I have the berkline 13175's which are comfy, modest width and tall backs while maintaining a small foot print. My room is 11'5" wide and I was able to do a row of 4 in the back and 3 in the front. We enter from the front of the room though.

That's about exactly how mine's turned out. I went with "Usher" recliners from HTA. So, you can definitely do it. My steps up to my riser are pretty narrow though... 18" wide on each side of the first row.
 

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Big. When you write "You want the stage, riser and screen wall to sit inside the double drywall box" I've read that the stage should be 3/4" or more away from the walls to help with sound isolation, is that correct? What about the riser, do the same rules apply with it as well? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/15568577


For soundproofing reasons the correct order is:

3

4

5

1

2

6

7

8


You want the stage, riser and screen wall to sit inside the double drywall box.

Thank you for correcting my thinking. Any good link to help me get started with step #1?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_pilgrim /forum/post/15570159


Two threads to take a look at:


1. Small builds:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...t=996973ttp://


2. Bar/counter in rear thread (recent):
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...t=996973ttp://

Thanks. I did see the thread about the bar in the rear and that could be one option. I just don't want it to feel like it's crammed in.


I do have 1500 sq. ft. of unfinished space to work with but I just can't come up with layout that'll let me have bigger space for the HT and still provide open feel layout for other things. One drawing I did I had the HT as 13.5' W x 25' L but it just feel right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by limulus /forum/post/15568570


At 16' long, I don't think you can have two rows of seating with a screen that large (your front row will be too close). Also, I see you want to build a screen wall and that will make your usable length even less.


Regarding that screen wall: ours is 36" from the front wall which is concrete. That concrete wall is covered from floor to ceiling with 1" Certainteed Ultraduct Gold and then out the sides floor to ceiling to the screen wall. The best thing I did in our theater to improve the quality was the acoustic treatment. Like most people who build their own theaters, I used a compressed fiberglass insulation that is used in the HVAC industry. It extends from the floor up to 48" on the two sides and the back wall. There are quite a few products that are suitable such as Linacoustic, OC 703, Certainteed Ultraduct Gold and the list goes on. You'll then need to cover it with a fabric like Guilford of Maine or Dazian Expo Cloth. You can also buy or make individual panels and mount them at primary reflection points. One other thing I almost forgot are bass traps. Behind the screen wall I simply stacked rolls of OC insulation in the corners all the way to the ceiling. It took 4-5 rolls for each corner. That works quite well and there is no need to remove the plastic wrapper. I have a commercial high density foam corner trap in the rear of the HT for aesthetics. However, you could stack foam insulation there too and just wrap them in fabric. The other thing you need to consider early is the lighting. It's also nice to have a separate breaker for the room.

Do you really need 3' of space from the front wall? My other concern is that I have bi-polar speakers that have 500watt subs build in each of them. How much sound treatment do you need to make the theater sound good with these speakers. I like the sound of these speakers when we watch the movies in our family room but not sure how they'll sound in a closed HT.


It just seems there are so many things to consider before getting things started. I just need to come up with good solid plan before starting. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 /forum/post/15570435


You can get away with 2 rows if you forgo the screenwall and put the screen on the reular wall. My room ends up being about 16' after my false wall and my screen is 120" 2:35 screen. My first row is right at 9'-9'5 with a 73" riser behind it.


I have the berkline 13175's which are comfy, modest width and tall backs while maintaining a small foot print. My room is 11'5" wide and I was able to do a row of 4 in the back and 3 in the front. We enter from the front of the room though.


If I leave 3' for screen wall like some of you have that would only leave ~13' of space to work with so I'm thinking that'll be too tight of space for two rows. I currently sit about ~10-11' from my 70" RPTV and I wouldn't want it any closer so I can just see what that'll feel like with 120" FP.


How much space do you need to leave between rows?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by javadoc /forum/post/15570369


Actually, a bar counter in the rear would be a good idea, as Pilgrim linked.


My room is 14'-2"" x 16'-8" (face of the screen to the back wall), and I have squeezed two rows in. It's not a big room at all, but it works for what we want to do with it.

Problem is I want to put the speakers behind the screen so it'll only leave me ~13'. Also since I have Definitive Tech BP2000TL Bi-polar towers I don't know if I need to leave even more room behind the screen what type of sound challenges.


Once I figure exactly how much space I need for the screen wall I may need to sketch up this using Google Sketch Up software to how seats may fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jamis /forum/post/15570389


For a room that size, I might consider putting the screen on a 16' wall and do a longer single row of seats.


Depending on the style and configuration, you could probably fit a single row of 5-6 seats (berklines) at about a 13' eye distance.


If not that, I'd also consider the bar for the second row.

Didn't really think about rotating the room that way. Does this layout create some sound issues with your mains having shallower depth than surrounds?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by SonyHome /forum/post/15577133


Do you really need 3' of space from the front wall? My other concern is that I have bi-polar speakers that have 500watt subs build in each of them. How much sound treatment do you need to make the theater sound good with these speakers. I like the sound of these speakers when we watch the movies in our family room but not sure how they'll sound in a closed HT.


It just seems there are so many things to consider before getting things started. I just need to come up with good solid plan before starting. Any help will be greatly appreciated.



Hello SonyHome,

I don't think it has to be three feet. In my case, that is what I needed for my speakers and two 18" cylinder subs. Also, the main reason for the acoustic treatment is to tame the reflections. That is why only the lower portion of the walls are treated (around ear level) except for the front wall which is floor to ceiling. For HT, you don't want your room totally dead but you also don't want sound bouncing around everywhere. The important thing is voice localization and clarity. In our old HT, I installed acoustic panels after about six months at key reflection points and the difference was very noticeable. You could always add some panels later. The old mirror method will show you where your reflection points are. You need helpers to do this. A full length dressing mirror works well. You can pick them up at Home Depot for under $20 and when you're done, you can mount it on a door in your closet. While sitting in your seat, have one or two people hold the mirror along the wall at tweeter height on both walls and the ceiling, if possible. Everywhere you see the reflection of a speaker is where you can place an acoustic panel.
 

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If you speakers are 18", I would say your gonna need about 24" for your false wal. Considering that you would make it out of 2x4's it will leave about 2.5" of space.


For a second row you usually need about 6' for a riser and the front row sits about 8-1" inches foward of that. My front row is about 8" in front of the riser.


Are you planning for 16:9 screen or have you considered 2:35. 2:35 makes a difference because the height of the screen may not be as much as what your planning for 16:9.


Also while limulus' suggestions are great for finding reflections, someone on the forum here had developed free software to find your reflection points. Do a search and it should come up.
 

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If you speakers are 18", I would say your gonna need about 24" for your false wal. Considering that you would make it out of 2x4's it will leave about 2.5" of space. /QUOTE]


Most of the false walls I've seen are constructed of 1x1x 1x2 or 2x2 including ours. If you use 2x4, you'll have a massive structure that is also heavy IMHO. I can't find the photos of ours and the old build thread from 2005 is archived and I can't find it. It is built very similar to LarryChanin's and I've posted his site here:
http://mysite.verizon.net/res8ycu4/index.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by limulus /forum/post/15579636


Hello SonyHome,

I don't think it has to be three feet. In my case, that is what I needed for my speakers and two 18" cylinder subs. Also, the main reason for the acoustic treatment is to tame the reflections. That is why only the lower portion of the walls are treated (around ear level) except for the front wall which is floor to ceiling. For HT, you don't want your room totally dead but you also don't want sound bouncing around everywhere. The important thing is voice localization and clarity. In our old HT, I installed acoustic panels after about six months at key reflection points and the difference was very noticeable. You could always add some panels later. The old mirror method will show you where your reflection points are. You need helpers to do this. A full length dressing mirror works well. You can pick them up at Home Depot for under $20 and when you're done, you can mount it on a door in your closet. While sitting in your seat, have one or two people hold the mirror along the wall at tweeter height on both walls and the ceiling, if possible. Everywhere you see the reflection of a speaker is where you can place an acoustic panel.

Thanks for the information. I was wondering how you could identify reflection point that everyone was talking about. My concern is since my front speakers are Definitive Technology BP2000TL Bi-Polar speakers I probably can't put sound treatment on the front wall. They also have 500watt subs in each of them. Do I still need bass traps even though I don't treat the front wall?
 
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