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Strange story......i would definitly ask for a replacement 1he fan unit with these 8 fans. These fans are being powered by the amplifier output board, also the inside 80x25mm fans are powered by the same output on this board (same soldering)...the 60x20mm fans are powered by a small pcb inside of 1 transformer (this pcb used to power 2 small fans on the frontplate on other older models). Those 8 small fans are dragging the heat out, which works much better than blowing (pushing) heat out, so it is a big advantage compared to older models.....i would definitly ask for some kind of replacement and i am wondering why fans are able to cause this noise on amplifier speaker outputs....

Someone any input on fusing amplfier boards?
 

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Discussion Starter · #402 ·
Me personally, I'd feel uncomfortable altering the cooling/airflow...but that's just me.
 
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Yeah dang it, ya got a bad unit. By bad I mean it’s not working as intended. Who knows what else may come up with that thing. They aren’t gonna cover blown subs from a bad amp, or god forbid the thing catches on fire. I think they should replace a defective product.
The least they could/should do is send you a good one that works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #404 ·
If they do send you a working amp, I'll take the defective one:D😁;)
 
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Couple questions about this amp: 1. Can it be ordered to be used on 15a circuit?
2. The newer version with the 8 fans on the back. I’m curious if that has an affect on the fan mod. Is it still doable?
 

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Discussion Starter · #406 ·
Couple questions about this amp: 1. Can it be ordered to be used on 15a circuit?
2. The newer version with the 8 fans on the back. I’m curious if that has an affect on the fan mod. Is it still doable?
1. Do you mean 120v circuit? If so, yes.
2. Don't know. I didn't mess around with my stock fans.
 

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I use my 2 amps, the 20k’s on dedicated 30A lines. The bass is brutal and I’m not clipping my amps. So I get enough juice from the 120V version.
I would have to use a regular 15A circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #410 ·
You may trip the breaker a time or two during heavy bass scenes.
 

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I would have to use a regular 15A circuit.
Because you are in this thread, we can assume you like to listen loud and with every drop of bass squeezed out of your subs. I would seriously look into upgrading your power circuit for sub amp. I spent (wasted) a few years on 1 shared circuit for all my sub amps. And I frequently had to reset the breaker. No fun. Always wondering if it would happen instead of enjoying the content.
 

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Because you are in this thread, we can assume you like to listen loud and with every drop of bass squeezed out of your subs. I would seriously look into upgrading your power circuit for sub amp. I spent (wasted) a few years on 1 shared circuit for all my sub amps. And I frequently had to reset the breaker. No fun. Always wondering if it would happen instead of enjoying the content.
It's just too difficult to do in my house. I could have easily done it while it was being built but I only had my head poked in the rabbit hole at that time, and had no idea as to the depths I would go with this. My only option is to repurpose an unused 20A dedicated outlet for a future garbage disposal. I could pretty easily run that through the floor of the kitchen cabinet and get it to my rack. Problem is, my girl really wants a disposal so I cant imagine it would be a good idea to share a circuit with that type of motor which is why I haven't done it yet. My plan is to have 4 Stereo Integrity 18's going. 2 are already ordered. It seemed the best option for me is a 2 channel speaker power amp to run all 4, but its an expensive amp. So i was looking into a more affordable option which is what brought me into this thread. However, last night i came across a sale from Adorama for a Behringer NX6000 for $150 off. So I thought it would be a good idea to grab that to hold me over until I can decide the best way for me to power these subs. I'm still a little torn between speaker power and clones. Speaker power is more than twice the cost and would force me to run the 4 subs in pairs (delay and gain). Clone amps are probably an issue with fan noise, and I now worry about overloading the circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #413 ·
It's just too difficult to do in my house. I could have easily done it while it was being built but I only had my head poked in the rabbit hole at that time, and had no idea as to the depths I would go with this. My only option is to repurpose an unused 20A dedicated outlet for a future garbage disposal. I could pretty easily run that through the floor of the kitchen cabinet and get it to my rack. Problem is, my girl really wants a disposal so I cant imagine it would be a good idea to share a circuit with that type of motor which is why I haven't done it yet. My plan is to have 4 Stereo Integrity 18's going. 2 are already ordered. It seemed the best option for me is a 2 channel speaker power amp to run all 4, but its an expensive amp. So i was looking into a more affordable option which is what brought me into this thread. However, last night i came across a sale from Adorama for a Behringer NX6000 for $150 off. So I thought it would be a good idea to grab that to hold me over until I can decide the best way for me to power these subs. I'm still a little torn between speaker power and clones. Speaker power is more than twice the cost and would force me to run the 4 subs in pairs (delay and gain). Clone amps are probably an issue with fan noise, and I now worry about overloading the circuit.
In regards to sharing a circuit with your garbage disposal, you should be ok as long as the two aren't in use at the same time.
 
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As part of a new theater room, I am currently planning out the electric runs. I will be using an FP20000Q for my 4 subs.

When running the FP20000Q at 240 volts, am I fine with 10/2 wire with a NEMA 6-30 receptacle or do I need the neutral and thus 10/3 and NEMA 14-30? Clothes dryers and ovens require the neutral for the clock/timer but wanted just verify there was nothing in the non-dsp power amplifier that might require the neutral.

thanks and looking forward to blowing out some windows in the near future with my “overkill” system
 

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As part of a new theater room, I am currently planning out the electric runs. I will be using an FP20000Q for my 4 subs.

When running the FP20000Q at 240 volts, am I fine with 10/2 wire with a NEMA 6-30 receptacle or do I need the neutral and thus 10/3 and NEMA 14-30? Clothes dryers and ovens require the neutral for the clock/timer but wanted just verify there was nothing in the non-dsp power amplifier that might require the neutral.

thanks and looking forward to blowing out some windows in the near future with my “overkill” system
My vote would be to run the neutral. With the Neutral there you can can later move to two 30 amp 120 volt amplifiers if that is what you need. For example I have a Crown Macro Tech 3600VZ, and if I had a NEMA14-30 with two hots, neutral and ground, I would be able to run two of those amps off of it. They would share the neutral and in an ideal world where they get the same signal, little to no current would actually flow through the neutral. I am contemplating this exact setup right now. (if you were to do this, you would retain the 30 amp breaker with the poles tied together to guarantee that you can't connect both wires to the same half of the phase in the panel causing an overload on the neutral)

My server rack doesn't have a neutral run but that is a situation where I am unlikely to ever want 120 volts in large quantities.

There are plenty of high power 120V amplifiers in the world that you may want to use down the road, and this gives you that flexibility.
 

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30 amp 2 pole
OK, I wouldn't do that, I would swap the plug and outlet to 30 amp variants. It probably won't burn your house down, but if it does it won't be good.
 

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Bear with me on a dumb question.. Multiple people run a FP20k on a 120v, 30A line. Doesn't it stand to reason that a single 20k would be just fine on a 240v 20A (or even 15A for that matter)
 
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