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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,


I had a CLOSE call with one of my Paradigm Studio 20s, and now I realize I gotta pin these guys down.


Here is my issue, I really don't want to drill into them, and I want something that isn't going to create a big gap between the speaker and the stand (I think that rules out velro)


Is there any good sticky-tack that you guys use that works? Or is double sided tape my best bet?


Thanks for any help!
 

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You're almost better off weighting the bottom of the stand so it isn't easily bumped off axis. I don't know if a speaker falling off a stand or a speaker falling while attached to a stand is worse.



In any event, do not drill into the speaker or use wood screws into MDF or fiberboard. If the speaker and stand hit the ground, you'll probably pull four divots out of the bottom of the speaker. Also, some speakers have the crossover board on the bottom of the enclosure, and wood screws through a circuit board do not enhance a speaker's performance.


In short...I got nuthin'...
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwc13ac /forum/post/15593991


Hey all,


I had a CLOSE call with one of my Paradigm Studio 20s, and now I realize I gotta pin these guys down.


Here is my issue, I really don't want to drill into them, and I want something that isn't going to create a big gap between the speaker and the stand (I think that rules out velro)


Is there any good sticky-tack that you guys use that works? Or is double sided tape my best bet?


Thanks for any help!

I've got just the thing for you. Its a pretty good item I picked up when I used to own a trawler and do some open water boating. Its called "museum wax." It rolls into small or large balls you place it on furniture, stands, etc. and push the item you don't want to move down into it. It flattens and holds pretty damn secure. It held my stuff in 10'-40' seas. When you are done, you simple roll it back and forth and it warms right up, comes off without any trace or residue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Good call, in fact I'm gonna head to home depot to fabricate something. I think the stands I have are fill-able, may just pick up something to fill them with.


Also, good point about not drilling for that reason, I was thinking I was gonna split the MDF, but that would be way worse.


I have a feeling sticky-tack is my answer. You know the stuff some people use to hang posters or light frames? It's like a slilly putty substance.
 

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Make your stands as heavy as possible by filling them with sand or lead shot. As for securing them on the top plate, I highly recommend a product called Quake Hold museum putty. It is very easy to use and reusable. Just a peas-sized amount that you roll out into a thin line and place in each corner works wonders. I used this to secure 20 lb speakers to a metal stand and yesterday I tried taking the speakers off. Unfortunately I had used too much of the product and it took me a long time to remove the speakers - I had to place the stand in a fulcrum like a see-saw. I had my wife hold down the base of the stand so that the speaker side was raised, then I had to push down really hard to make the speaker come loose (I just got new speakers so I had to remove the old ones). For the new speakers I used much less of the putty but they are still fastened very securely. Also, the putty came off very easily from both the stand and the speaker after I had removed the speaker from the stand, and left no marks whatsoever. I just reused it on the new speaker to attach to the stand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by monkuboy /forum/post/15596412


Make your stands as heavy as possible by filling them with sand or lead shot. As for securing them on the top plate, I highly recommend a product called Quake Hold museum putty. It is very easy to use and reusable. Just a peas-sized amount that you roll out into a thin line and place in each corner works wonders. I used this to secure 20 lb speakers to a metal stand and yesterday I tried taking the speakers off. Unfortunately I had used too much of the product and it took me a long time to remove the speakers - I had to place the stand in a fulcrum like a see-saw. I had my wife hold down the base of the stand so that the speaker side was raised, then I had to push down really hard to make the speaker come loose (I just got new speakers so I had to remove the old ones). For the new speakers I used much less of the putty but they are still fastened very securely. Also, the putty came off very easily from both the stand and the speaker after I had removed the speaker from the stand, and left no marks whatsoever. I just reused it on the new speaker to attach to the stand.

That's great advice, I'm going to fill the stands ASAP and get the quake hold, or if I can't get it use some sticky tack.


Thanks guys.


BTW that is a hilarious visual thinking of someone and their wife ripping a speaker off a stand. Almost like something you'd see in a sitcom, then someone gets knocked out by a speaker in the head lol. Ohh I amuse myself.
 

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I third the suggestions for the musuem putty. Its cheap and there is absolutely no residue. Its pretty much a must for all of my stuff as I have cats that like to get up in places they don't belong and rub on stuff.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwc13ac /forum/post/15593991


Hey all,


I had a CLOSE call with one of my Paradigm Studio 20s, and now I realize I gotta pin these guys down.


Here is my issue, I really don't want to drill into them, and I want something that isn't going to create a big gap between the speaker and the stand (I think that rules out velro)

Agreed that velcro is ruled out.

Quote:
Is there any good sticky-tack that you guys use that works? Or is double sided tape my best bet?


Thanks for any help!

I use four things for my rear/surround speakers to help keep them in place:


1. I put "playground" sand (the cleanest sand) into pint plastic freezer bags and drop them into the legs of my rear stands to both deaden the legs and make it harder for the stands to move around.


2. I put soft kitchen "Crisper Liner" rubber on top of the surface of my rear stand platforms, with the speakers directly on top of it.


3. I put "playground" sand in quart plastic freezer bags (loose so that the top can be folded under) and tuck the top under to avoid sand squeeze out.


4. I put a 10 lb. weight on top of the quart plastic sand filled bag.


Cheers
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwc13ac /forum/post/15596486



BTW that is a hilarious visual thinking of someone and their wife ripping a speaker off a stand. Almost like something you'd see in a sitcom, then someone gets knocked out by a speaker in the head lol. Ohh I amuse myself.

It was pretty comical, actually. I was getting worried that those speakers would NEVER come off - sort of like that I Love Lucy episode where she uses Bulldog Cement and they need to find Bulldog Cement Remover to get it off. I used too much so the instructions of lifting and twisting didn't work. Live and learn, lol..
 

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Quote:
In any event, do not drill into the speaker or use wood screws into MDF or fiberboard. If the speaker and stand hit the ground, you'll probably pull four divots out of the bottom of the speaker. Also, some speakers have the crossover board on the bottom of the enclosure, and wood screws through a circuit board do not enhance a speaker's performance.

Sorry, thats what I did with mine - wood screws into the bottom. My stands are filled with sand and speakers are 45lb each though so they're not easily tipped over together.
 

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Lots of good suggestions. Remember that a low center of gravity is the best solution. If the stands are not weighted, the stand and speaker will get knocked over. Whether or not the speaker hits the floor with a stand firmly attached to it or not is moot.
 
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