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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been having a problem with jumping/shifting grid lines on my Pioneer 532hd set. The tech has ordered a new convergence board for me. I was wondering if any settings done in the service menu will be lost once a new convergence board is replaced. Hopefully this is not too general of a question. Thanks.
 

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I don't know this set, so it depends. The good news possibility is that the "convergence board" might by only a little daughter board that carries the signal generator that creates the grid pattern (and appears to be the problem). In that case you probably wouldn't have to adjust anything.


The bad news possibility (and the more likely) is that this board carries all the convergence circuits, in which case you will indeed lose all your convergence adjustments and have to re-converge from scratch. However, I doubt that other service adjustments, like gray-scale tracking would be affected.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Spoffo



The bad news possibility (and the more likely) is that this board carries all the convergence circuits, in which case you will indeed lose all your convergence adjustments and have to re-converge from scratch.
This is almost certainly the case.
 

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hockey nut, I think I'm like you a big hockey nut. And I've noticed a problem with burn-in on my tosh widescreen, it's very slight and on the geen crt, but I'm really curious if this had anything to do with the amount of hockey I watch in 4:3 mode.


The burn in is where the 4:3 pilars are on the left and right sides. I watch a lot of different formats and in different modes. It's not like I've only been watching 4:3 content.


I just wanted to ask if you've seen anything similar? And maybe warn you to watch out. I now watch everything in wide mode.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey Jeff,


I have not noticed any problems with burn-in, however I have been concerned about burn in since day 1. So I have been avoiding extended 4:3 viewing. I try to watch mainly full screen. The only exception is when watching my local digital stations when they are broadcasting in 14:9 leaving small black bars down the sides. So during the hockey finals, like last night for example, I would change channles to something full screen at the intermissions just to be safe. That may be going a bit overboard but better to be safe than sorry.
 

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Jeff D.


My $0.02


Just think about it, the bright white ice will really drive the CRT's hard, even with lowered settings. You are gonna burn baby. I never watch anything in 4:3. These TV's are too expensive to take a chance with CRT burn. If I need to watch 4:3 in 4:3, then I use the bedrooms TV. As it is, I use Cinema mode for almost all 4:3 viewing.
 

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I can't speak for what will happen in your Pioneer set, however here is how the Toshiba sets react. They have two convergence boards, one is simply called the convergence board while the other is called the digital convergence board (It is a daughter card that plugs into the main convergence board).


1) Changing the convergence board had no effect on any of my service settings.


2) Changing the digital convergence board required a complete geometry and convergence re-do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I am REALLY hoping this does not require a total geometry and convergence redo because this is a Best Buy tech who will be replacing the board.
 

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Hi Hockeynut.


I'm right in the middle of the same operation with my Pro 98 (Elite). I'm going to be replacing the convergence board STK4274 which is located on the board just inside the front tv panel. Just curious, does your convergence board have the same STK part number? (the ic board is about three inches long, 2.5inch wide, 1/2 inch thick, black and it tapers on both sides as it reaches its mounting point on the big board panel.


I've ordered my convergence board and waiting for it to come in. Let me know if this is what your service guy is going to change and what part number it is (stamped right on the face of the ic board). I would appreciate it.


Jaime
 

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I have the 50hx70 which does not do 480p Squeeze ... Can I order the Convergence board for the 50h72 (which does the 480p 16:9 compression)?
 

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If it helps: I had the convergence board replaced on my Elite 1009W. All convergence settings had to be redone from scratch. Unless Pioneer has changed their engineering in this area (and I don't think they have) the same will likely be true for you. Sorry about that.


I'm sure the Best Buy guy can converge your set as well as it is done in their stores...yikes!
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by hockeynut
I have been having a problem with jumping/shifting grid lines on my Pioneer 532hd set. The tech has ordered a new convergence board for me. I was wondering if any settings done in the service menu will be lost once a new convergence board is replaced. Hopefully this is not too general of a question. Thanks.
I have the exact same TV and I don't think the problem is with the convergence board. There is a loose connector on the right side of the board that has intermittant connection. On my set the only thing that is affected is the standard crosshatch used for the gross convergence. These crosshatchs blink intermittently while trying to converge, but the multipoint convergence grid is not affected. The problem also occurs while in the service menu but is more annoying because in the SM you lose your curser and descriptive fields.


Applying a small blunt object (bic pen) to the connector corrects the problem. They offered to replace my convergence board but I had just had my set ISFed and all settings for geometry will be lost, and depending on the skill level of the tech, possible loss of greyscale settings. The reward was not worth the risk in my case, so I deal with blinking crosshatches once in a while, but my convergence has not been affected by the problem.


regards,


Mike
 

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whoa... why do so many ppl seem to need the convergence board replaced?


One day about a month ago, there was a pop in my 2000 widescreen mits and all of a sudden the picture looked like it caved in on itself.

Imagine a super duper pincushioned image with all three colors way misconverged. None of the convergence controls would work.


The mits has a similar dual convergence baord setup. The tech had my entire "convergence" assembly replaced, not just the digital daughterboard.


I lost all my settings, but to tell you the truth, the set has better geometry now than it did b4 the repair.


The total repair took about 3 weeks, mits was very good about it. Even though I was out of warranty, they paid for the parts. I only wound up paying for labor.


I wonder how often this part fails in these big screen tvs..
 

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I'm curious, I have a problem on my Tosh tw56x81 that it seems I'm always having to readjust the convergence. It might look good today, tomorrow the red and blue had shifted. I've had a tosh tech out to look and all he did was the 56 point convergence setting. Now it's out of wack again... It's almost like something's loose.


Is this what you guys are seeing?
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Jeff D
I'm curious, I have a problem on my Tosh tw56x81 that it seems I'm always having to readjust the convergence. It might look good today, tomorrow the red and blue had shifted. I've had a tosh tech out to look and all he did was the 56 point convergence setting. Now it's out of wack again... It's almost like something's loose.


Is this what you guys are seeing?
This is (part of) the problem I was having with my TW65H80. It turned out the connections to the deflection board were dirty. There are three 4 wire connectors going from the board (from the rear of the set, it's the board directly behind the one that the three high voltage wires come out of) to the CRT assemblies, just unplug and re-plug several times (make sure you leave the set unplugged for at least 30 minutes first). This solved my problem.


Hope this helps,
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Quote:
Originally posted by BTDT
If it helps: I had the convergence board replaced on my Elite 1009W. All convergence settings had to be redone from scratch. Unless Pioneer has changed their engineering in this area (and I don't think they have) the same will likely be true for you. Sorry about that.


I'm sure the Best Buy guy can converge your set as well as it is done in their stores...yikes!
LOL.


Does this mean the tech (or I) will have to redo the gridlines from scratch or will they have gridlines in place once the new board is put in and will I just have to put the red and blue behind the green?


I wouldn't mind just having to put the blue and red lines behind the green. But if this means having to create the gridlines from scratch, I think that would mean that I am in serious trouble.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by hockeynut



LOL.


Does this mean the tech (or I) will have to redo the gridlines from scratch or will they have gridlines in place once the new board is put in and will I just have to put the red and blue behind the green?


I wouldn't mind just having to put the blue and red lines behind the green. But if this means having to create the gridlines from scratch, I think that would mean that I am in serious trouble.


Unfortunately, all three guns will have to be converged for each mode. That is Full, Zoom, Cinema, Natural, and HD. I am not sure how close they will be from the start, but to do it right, a template should be set up rather than attempt to do it by eye. The gidlines will be in place, but the geometry will be out of whack. Definately let the tech do all of the work at least to get it close, you are talking about hours of convergence work. You can fine tune it later or get a professional ISF to do a full work up.


A note about HD convergence. You will need to have an HD source hooked up to the component inputs to properly converge. If the source is hooked up to the RGB it won't hold, and you will waste a lot of time. I know from personal experience. :( If you want more details, contact me via email.


As I stated earlier, I don't think you need a new convergence board, but if it's covered under warranty, what the heck. :)


Best of luck,


Mike P.
 

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Seems like there are two threads running here....


Re-convergence One:


Yes, the gridlines were still there, but as stated above major reconvergence in all modes was necessary. Luckily my repair was done by a local A/V specialty store that appears to know how to get all of their models looking good.


Convergence board blow-out one:


My problem was very noticeable, in that the entire picture collapsed top and bottom into a small area in the middle of the screen. This was preceded by a lot of trouble with the blue being off mark. Pioneer was very good in paying for the part despite the set being out of warranty.


Scott Stock:


My set was about 2.5 years old at the time, so the acceptability of buying a new one at that time was not high, and it was JUST out of warranty. I would be surprise if Pioneer would foot the bill on a 5 year old set (I could be wrong), however, and the amount of work you are talking about with parts and all will run you a pretty penny -- I'm thinking at least $1K. Also, 5 years in getting you closer and closer to that eventual CRT death mark (7-8 years). Considering the quality and prices available today I would personally consider a new set if I were in your situation.
 

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I have a Tosh 40H80 and I had a Best Buy tech replace my digital convergence board. It wiped all the settings and returned the TV to factory settings. This was a-ok for me considering the fact the tech had just attempted to converge the TV two weeks ago and had messed up the geometry! Alas, this "fix" only wasted solder as the tech really didn't discover the true problem with the TV (one side, the right, is incredibly blurry). Beware of Best Buy techs, they tend to simply guess what the solution to the problem is...my TV is still messed up :mad:
 
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