[Skeptic]

Does anyone know what cool tricks can be performed using the header under the battery cover of the remote? I assume this is for reprogramming the remote.


Also, I have a Kenwood remote that appears to have the same connector. Hmmm.....


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Skeptic

 

[The Robman]

Marc's right, that 6-pin connector is used by the folks who actually make these remotes (UEIC) to program them. You will notice the same connector on most Radio Shack remotes and the higher end One For All remotes. If we know the protocol that the remote expects info to be sent in then we'd really be talking! But whle we do know the protocol for the older 3-pin connectors, the 6-pin ones have never been unveiled. Wait a minute, I wonder if lostboy is looking for something to do in his free time (FREE TIME, HA - dat boyz busy!)


So you say you have a Kenwood remote with the same connector? Does the remote have a similar look and feel to the Replay remote? Does it use similar programming techniques? If so, could you post what Kenwood device you have and if possible the model number of the remote (it is sometimes on a white label inside the battery compartment, should be something like URC-????B00).


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Later,

Rob.
http://www.hifi-remote.com/

 

[The Robman]

GROUND BREAKING NEWS!!!!


Someone seems to have cracked the protocol used by the 6-pin connector in the UEIC remotes (including the Replay remote).


Here's a link to the relevant post at Remote Central: http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...hread.cgi?1556


Here's the content...

Quote:

I've hacked the hardware details for the JP1 jumper in the RS 15-1994. I've successfully read the internal EEPROM, and monitored its reads/writes while pushing various buttons. I haven't tried writing the EEPROM, but it should be trivial. There are 2 ICs on the board: U1 is the microcontroller, and U2 is a 2048x8 bit serial EEPROM (ATMEL 24C16N - datasheet available online). Only a few bytes in U2 are used, so I believe that the main code database is stored in a hardwired ROM in U1. U2 holds your customizations (device numbers, macros, key remaps etc.) JP1 pin definitions: 1 - VCC(U1) (leave unconnected if using batteries) 2 - VCC(U2) (leave unconnected if using batteries) 3 - GND 4 - SDA (U2 data input/output) 5 - input to U1 (unknown function) 6 - SCL (U2 clock) The SEEPROM is read/written by following the protocol in the datasheet. Until the software memory use is understood, we can't do much more than copy settings from one remote to another. I can already tell that there are various pointers, and it seems like the software calculates a checksum of the entire EEPROM contents after any operation that does a write. I believe that a devices code upgrade stores the new codes in U2. The easiest way to crack this would be to look at an upgraded remote (maybe the OFA remotes are close enough to be of help).

I'm posting this here in case this is enough info for some of the 'brains' here to figure out the rest of it.



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Later,

Rob.
http://www.hifi-remote.com/

 

[Skeptic]

The Kenwood Remote is model number RC-R805. It came with my 1080VR DD receiver.


It has 1 macro for each source button, red LED backlighting, and the "FutureSet" function that allows downloading new device profiles over the phone (you call a special number and hold the remote near the phone).


It is NOT a conventional learning remote unfortunately.


I've never used the futureset. Does anyone know if there are ReplayTV/Showstopper codes available from Kenwood?

http://imagehost.auctionwatch.com/bi...woodRemote.JPG
http://imagehost.auctionwatch.com/bi...RemoteBack.JPG


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Skeptic

 

[The Robman]

Well, the remote itself doesn't look like a UEIC remote, but the 6-pin connector does look very much like the UEIC connector. Let me ask you this, are the programming instructions similar to the Replay remotes? Do you use 99x commands to program it? If so, then it could well be a UEIC remote. If it uses the same device codes as UEIC then there are codes available for Replay, the codes being VCR/0614 (Replay 2020 style) and VCR/0616 (Pan. Showstopper style). Seeing as how both units respond to both codesets now, you should go with the Panasonic code as it supports advanced codes, the old Replay code does not.


i would suggest simply calling Kenwood and asking for the Replay code, they really should have one available by now.


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Later,

Rob.
http://www.hifi-remote.com/

 

[Skeptic]

Well, you enter 990 to display the code for a component, and 991 to erase the code. Does that sound right?


The component codes are 4 digit, with the 1st digit being type of component (1xxx=TV, 3xxx=DSS, 5xxx=LD, 6xxx=DVD[6503=Toshiba])


The remote is pre-PVR. Are there any older codes that will operate my showstopper?




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Skeptic

 

[Chris Myers]

The 24C16 is a garden-variety industry-standard I2C EEPROM. I2C describes the protocol used to move data between the EEPROM and the chip it's attached to (typically a microcontroller). The datasheet will do nothing more for anyone than describe how to access the EEPROM. What the contents are, how they are formatted, and so on will not be found in the datasheet.


The unknown connection might be to the write-protect pin on the EEPROM.

 

[Skeptic]

Robman:


I downloaded a code to my Kenwood remote (616) that is supposed to be for the Showstopper, but it only works a couple of commands. The number you call to updated the remote has a message that thanks you for calling universal electronics.


I guess that answers that question.


I bet we could figure out the storage format by dumping the flash memory, downloading a new code, dumping, and repeating. Then you could compare to see just what was added.




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Skeptic

 

[The Robman]

Have you tried using advanced codes on your remote? If you can get them to work you can program all the missing buttons that you can find places to put them.


I have the 616 codes on my site.


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Later,

Rob.
http://www.hifi-remote.com/

 

[Skeptic]

It is not supposed to be a learning remote. Where can I find the advanced codes to try? your site?


The guide buttom brings up the main menu, but then the arrow keys don't work and the enter key doesnt work. Pause and play work but fwd and rev dont. wierd.




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Skeptic

 

[The Robman]

Using advanced codes and learning are totally different concepts. Learning is where you put the remotes head-to-head and have one remote teach commands to the other remote. Advanced codes are a method where you can create missing functions when you already have a working device code for your device.


I have many instructions for programming advanced codes on my site, but I don't know if your Kenwood remote can use them and if it can, I don't know what variation of my instructions you would need, it would either take a call to your customer support or trial and error to figure it out.


I have the 616 codes in the advanced code section of my site.


If you like, you can loan my your remote and I can mess around with it to see if I can figure out how to program the adv codes, let me know.


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Later,

Rob.
http://www.hifi-remote.com/

 

[Skeptic]

Robman:


I think my Kenwood remote might be a relative of the 15-1925, based on what I have read (telephone upgrade + 6 pin connector).


What do you think?



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Skeptic