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I have been posting some questions about my ceiling-mounted XG1352 setup, which I installed many years ago. I had no prior experience and my guidance was primarily the manual. The projector is about on factory spec for distance, but due to mounting limitations, is somewhat higher than the factory spec from screen center. It is about 4" high as is, but I have the PJ tilted downward, which my mount allows, so if the PJ was level it would be another 3/4" higher.


There is nothing in the manual about the impact of tilt, or whether to even use it. For some reason I did, perhaps to keep the raster more centered. I now want to really dial in my setup. I had originally planned dual setups for 4:3 and 16:9 as screen is 52"x79". I have really not used the 4:3 setup and could raise the 16:9 image up about 4" if I limit my screen to 44"x79". I could just reduce the tilt to do this and not even change the scanned area on the phosphor. There would likely still be some remaining tilt to the PJ if I do this.


What is the impact of physical setup tilt? Should it be used as a tool or should I just level my PJ and make all the adjustments in other ways? I have no idea what the tilt does to lense flapping settings. My present setup is off the range of the manual anyway, as the pj is too high. Where do I look for mechanical focus dial-in instructions when you are outside of tables in the manual?
 

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Tilt will not only affect lense flapping, but you will also be using more keystone correction to keep the image square on screen.


With the projector tilted down the way you have it, you will be using less of the phosphor because of the keystone correction required to keep the image square. I actually have my XG tilted up at the front and my screen tilted down at the top so that lense flapping still works properly.


I believe that someone on the forum did a "stepless" lense flapping modifcation to the NEC's, which is basically what you would require to get the flapping perfect.


Brad
 

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You should try to make the angle 12.2° as per the manual. Measure from the center of the green lense to the center of the screen and then the horizontal distance from the center of the green lense to the screen. The angle should be 12.2°.
 

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Some people tilt the PJ so the image is square on the phosper, this allows them to increase the size of the image on the phosper to increase the resolution of the image. What you end up with is the face of the phosper parallel to the screen, the back of the PJ lower then the front, image shifted to recenter the image on the screen and no keystone correction.


Deron.
 

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Tilt also affects my focus.

I have a slight upward tilt on my cheapie 1020 and I notice that I can't get even focus top to bottom. I can either focus the top or the bottom, but not both at the same time.


Some of the problem may be the craptacular lenses in the PJ, but I do get better focus with the PJ level.


I don't have the ceiling height to put the image where I want it, so an upward tilt is needed.
 

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Tilt it as needed and you actually will need less Keystone which is a good thing.

I though about tilting my XG so I have square raster but it needed a lot of tilt and figured it would complicate my focus and mount so I gave up. My XG is hung level.
 

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Loudmouse have you tried doing a little lens flapping to fix the focus issue? You can use shims if the PJ is not set up to correct the focus.


Deron.
 

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Lens flapping? That sounds like something you would do to a "real" projector!


No seriously, I like the silent little Sony, but I've never seen another CRT PJ running to compare it to. I can imagine that a well set up PJ running 1080p looks astounding compared to my 1020 throwing a 100" wide SD image to my $40 Da-lite screen.


I'm hoping to find an upgrade PJ soon and then I am going to use the Sony in the bedroom to project latenight TV on the ceiling, I might have to give her a flap then.
 
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