[Norbert]

I purchased a "dead" 5504 and am using it mainly for researching how I could "MOD" a good ReplayTV, but when I got it the hard drive was loose and there was some damage during shipping. The HD cable was frayed as well as the power connector which broke off the connections at the power supply.


I know I can get another power supply, power, and HD cable, but what HD should be in the unit. It came to me with a 3.5 series Maxtor Fireball 3 ATA/133 HD 40 GB. it has a model type of 2F040L0. I have not hooked it up yet as my significant other is not aware of the purchase ($20 + shipping). I hope to make it operational, but would like to know if this is a stock HD. It might need to be replaced regardless.


What do I use to check it out, software wise? Is the Maxtor diag tool the best or something else. I can install it into a P4 Gateway 2.0 GHz running XP Home.


Suggestions? Who had advertised that they have ReplayTV power supplies?

 

[sfhub]

That's the stock drive. Just run the Maxtor diagnostic on it and low-level

format the drive.

 

[icecow]

Yes, that is the stock harddrive

 

[clambert11]

Quote:

Originally posted by Norbert Suggestions? Who had advertised that they have ReplayTV power supplies?

Mikeyboy sells them. But I don't know how much you want to put into it. I think the PS itself goes for $80.

 

[Jeff D]

You should also check the activation on the unit at the DNNA website. Try to activate the SN if it's already activated it will tell you, if not it will ask you to pick a activation method.

 

[rm -rf *.*]

Quote:

Originally posted by clambert11 Mikeyboy sells them. But I don't know how much you want to put into it. I think the PS itself goes for $80.

Norbert-


You stated that "some connections were broken off" at the PS. Can you post a photo or two - the ammount of damage, and if it's repairable is hard to determine based on that description.


(I have a guess as to what you were referring to, and if I'm right & you have rudimentary or better soldering skills - it's easily repairable)

 

[Norbert]

Quote:

Originally posted by rm -rf *.* Norbert- You stated that "some connections were broken off" at the PS. Can you post a photo or two - the amount of damage, and if it's repairable is hard to determine based on that description. (I have a guess as to what you were referring to, and if I'm right & you have rudimentary or better soldering skills - it's easily repairable)

Yeah, I was going to do that tomorrow. I have the unit at work at my desk. I will get to it as soon as I can, but I have some training classes first thing in the morning. So it might not be up until about noon pacific time.


I was thinking I can replace it but that would mean I would need to bring it back to the house and work on it. I will have to tell the little woman about it sooner or later anyway. But hey, for $20 just to see how I can MOD a ReplayTV I think it will be worth it.

http://imageuploading.com/041018/1098161129.jpg http://imageuploading.com/041018/1098161129_tmb.jpg


Found this picture on Mikeboy's site. This is the piece that broke. Also the power and HD cable with the choke on it was damaged. I hope the drive is ok. I will need to check it this weekend.

 

[rm -rf *.*]

Nooo-problemo Bob. So long as the PCB isn't badly damaged, de-soldering the pins and replacing that connector should be so difficult and challenging that you might actually have to go to sleep with one eye open on the day you decide to repair it.


The power cable that goes from that connector to the disk are a dime-a-dozen at just about any computer/electronics store.


Actually, since the PCB is already drilled for the now sheared-off connector pins, just de-solder the remnants of the pins and remove them. Then, just just take an old computer power supply and cut (as close as you can to the PCB, as to maximize remaining cable length) one of the longer HDD power cables off, then strip the ends and stick them through the appropriate holes in the PCB and solder 'em down. Although it's not critical to do so, I'd recommend finding something rigid to zip-tie the new HDD power cable to, since it can no longer break free from the power supply board - a nylon cable mounting loop to the power supply mounting screw that's located about 7mm to to right of where the power connector used to be would work perfectly.


When it comes to the power cable for the above idea, I'd recommend one that is at least 1.5 times longer than the stock cable - since you will no longer be able to remove it. If you were to use the cable that came with the RTV, it would probably be too short after you cut the connector off, and then strip the wires back, etc...


If you don't have any junk power supplies lying around to cannibalize a power cable from - send me a PM with your address and I'll toss one in the mail (a longer power cable w/ pre-stripped and tinned ends that is; not the whole damn power supply - unless you really, really want it...). I've got access to heaps of old DOA electronics, so it's no bother.


The HDD data cable is just a short ultra-ATA/133 cable with a single disk connector. Most new, boxed hard disks come with one these days (all the "red box" Maxtors definitely do) - so nothing special there.


I don't remember off-hand if the ferrite choke on the stock RTV-5k ATA (IDE) is of the two-piece or single-piece design. If it's a two-piece, then just undo the clips and move it over to the new cable. If it's a one-piece choke, then don't worry about it and just chuck it the trash along with the old cable. The reality of the purpose behind putting an RF-choke around a cable that carries voltages less than 5VDC and at current levels that will barely register on an Milli-Ammeter (mAh) is just solely to keep the FCC Bozos happy, so that they'll give you a passing mark on the all-precious "part 15" test.

 

[Norbert]

Quote:

Originally posted by Jeff D You should also check the activation on the unit at the DNNA website. Try to activate the SN if it's already activated it will tell you, if not it will ask you to pick a activation method.

Actually it asks for the RTV # not the serial #. I did however put in an email to the Customer Support telling them I bought one and wanted to check the activation.