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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, I'm looking for a nice sub speaker that doesn't require a large box, but can also get down low in the hz. I'm using the paradigm cinima 330's so it doesn't need to be some huge 18" sub. Any thought? Hopefully something I can keep the box around 2 cubic feet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah I know, I just dont what a coffin sitting beside my entertainment center. Right now I'm using a 10" orion hcca (yes its a car sub woofer) in a 1.2 cubic ' vented box. It actually has really good bass around the 40-70hz range, I'm just missing the lower hz, I can feel them just can really hear them that much. Of coarse I'm using a old jbl 150 watt plate amp, so I might just try buying a more powerfull amp and see what that does. The speaker can handle 1500 watts of power, so I'm only giving it 1/10 of its capability.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigvag /forum/post/15504327


Right now I'm using a 10" orion hcca (yes its a car sub woofer)

We don't care about labels. One of our favorite driver suppliers is Fi Car Audio.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigvag /forum/post/15504327


in a 1.2 cubic ' vented box. It actually has really good bass around the 40-70hz range, I'm just missing the lower hz, I can feel them just can really hear them that much.

That's your problem. What is the Fb (box tuning frequency) of your enclosure? With a 1.2cf box, I bet it is 30hz or higher.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigvag /forum/post/15504327


Of coarse I'm using a old jbl 150 watt plate amp, so I might just try buying a more powerfull amp and see what that does. The speaker can handle 1500 watts of power, so I'm only giving it 1/10 of its capability.

In the home theater world, 99.9% of the time you run out of excursion before reaching the thermal limits of the driver. In other words, ignore the RMS rating on your driver. If you gave it 1500w in that box while watching an action movie you would destroy it.


DIY sub building isn't magic, it's just physics. Learn the basics of the Theile/Small parameters and how to use a modeling program. Finally, read up on the differences between sealed and ported enclosures. Finally, read about the advantages of a large enclosure as explained in Hoffman's Iron Law.


-Robert
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by rlj5242 /forum/post/15505330


We don't care about labels. One of our favorite driver suppliers is Fi Car Audio.


That's your problem. What is the Fb (box tuning frequency) of your enclosure? With a 1.2cf box, I bet it is 30hz or higher.


In the home theater world, 99.9% of the time you run out of excursion before reaching the thermal limits of the driver. In other words, ignore the RMS rating on your driver. If you gave it 1500w in that box while watching an action movie you would destroy it.


DIY sub building isn't magic, it's just physics. Learn the basics of the Theile/Small parameters and how to use a modeling program. Finally, read up on the differences between sealed and ported enclosures. Finally, read about the advantages of a large enclosure as explained in Hoffman's Iron Law.


-Robert

The box is designed from orions recommedations. Tuned for 35hz. I designed one on winISd and it said I needed a port the lenth of a football field. I'm going to try a design a passive radiator box.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigvag /forum/post/15524040


The box is designed from orions recommedations. Tuned for 35hz. I designed one on winISd and it said I needed a port the lenth of a football field. I'm going to try a design a passive radiator box.

And Orion's recommendations are for car audio applications, not home theater applications. PR's are the way to go if you want a small box and the low end output from a ported alignment.


-Robert
 
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