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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We will be moving into our new house in the next month! YEAH!! It has been a long 9 months. I will finally be able to get working on the theater room. What do people typically fasten the supports of their soffits to? My room was constructed using staggard studs, 2 layers of dry wall and whisper clips with the aluminum channel. Should I be fastening the 2x2's into the metal channel? If so what screws should I use?
 

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Do I understand correctly that the walls are staggered stud and the ceiling is decoupled with clips and channel?


I would make every effort to hit a hat channel, but I tend to be overly conservative with that sort of thing. You should use fine thread screws to attach to the hat channel. Whatever thickness of the material you plan to attach plus the drywall plus another 1/2" IIRC. You would also be wise to add some PL to each 2x2 as well. Granted it only glued to the drywall paper, but you would be surprised at just how much weight that will support.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That is what I kind of figured. Do people put a chalk line up or laser to make sure it is straight? The walls and ceiling both are using whisper clips and channels.
 

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I prefer a chalk line. I did mine using a laser level, and later discovered that it was not accurate over 25'. The optics caused a slight curve over that distance that I only discovered after my soffits were up.


You'll need to double check the clearance between the channel and the clips. I would be surprised if you find a fine thread screw that is exactly 1/2" longer than the combined thickness of your material. You just want to make sure your screws don't go through everything and then into the framing or into a clip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am up to this section of my theater. Still wondering what size screw I should use. I bought some fine thread 3" dry wall screws but not sure if they are long enough. It needs to go through a 2x2, 2 layers of 5/8 drywall and then into the hat section. So I have 2.75" or material to go through. Is .25" enough? I supposed I could sink the screw into the wood of the 2x2 to make it a bit deeper. Just want to make sure my soffit does not come crashing down :)
 

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I am up to this section of my theater. Still wondering what size screw I should use. I bought some fine thread 3" dry wall screws but not sure if they are long enough. It needs to go through a 2x2, 2 layers of 5/8 drywall and then into the hat section. So I have 2.75" or material to go through. Is .25" enough? I supposed I could sink the screw into the wood of the 2x2 to make it a bit deeper. Just want to make sure my soffit does not come crashing down :)
I'd say 0.25" is not long enough. For comparison, most people on the forum use 2" screws to fasten the second layer of 5/8" drywall to hat channel. That allows for just under 3/4" through the hat channel. Suggest that you

I used a 3/8" wood spade bit to countersink the screws that fastened 2x2's or 2x4's. With 3" drywall screws, you could countersink 0.5".
 

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I've seen Jeff Parkinson use steel channel to build the soffits, perhaps you could use those instead, thereby not needing such a long screw to go up into the channel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I looked for these channels at the Home Depot today and they looked at me dumbfounded. I was not really sure what to ask for. Maybe we do not have them in the Michigan home depots?
 

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I looked for these channels at the Home Depot today and they looked at me dumbfounded. I was not really sure what to ask for. Maybe we do not have them in the Michigan home depots?
I didn't find them at any of the big box stores. Head to a local drywall distributor. They will have them for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
what are they called?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That is all it is called? Big, you prefer this method compared to what you did in the Bacon Race project? I think you attached a 2x2 to the ceiling there, then hung a piece of mdf and attached the 2x2 ladder to the bottom of that to the wall. I suppose both methods will work.
 

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Here is one online citation I could find:

http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...8-x-10-metal-track-25-ga/p-1708127-c-5695.htm

I've now built soffits several ways, what I've come back to as my favorite is the steel track, wood vertical pieces and a 2x3 along the wall (unless you can find good 2x2s) build down first, then use a level to mark the wall level with the bottom of the ladder you've built down from the ceiling. Add drywall to the bottom (Use a level to make sure you keep the verticals plumb), insert lighting, wiring, ducts, insulation or whatever then drywall the face, have the soffit finished by the guy you get to do the ceiling and walls. Skip the inside corners at the ceiling and underneath if it will be hidden by molding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The only thing about that way is that I need a light tray similar to Bacon's theater. There is not enough room on one side of the room for can lights in the soffit as I am building around a bulk head. I did not put any can lights in my ceiling to keep everything sealed. Also how would you add crown and LED lights to light the ceiling in your preferred method?
 

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You can add a light tray to a drywalled soffit.

As for crown molding you just nail it up using the wood vertical supports as fastening locations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
That makes sense, do you use drywall again on that outer face or are you using mdf? Also what screws are you using to attache the 2x4's into the metal track? I can probably use 1 5/8" fine thread to attache the metal track to the ceiling. Do you still use liquid nails when attaching the track to the ceiling? Thanks Jeff!

Also there is a Menards in our town, excellent!
 

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If the bottoms are drywall so are the outer faces. I actually like to use course thread drywall screws you just have to lean on them to get them started through the metal. I feel they have more grip on the wood. If you have trouble you can take a nail/hammer for a starter hole. Glue is a nice touch but not necessary. I put the top rail and vertical pieces together then attach in sections to ceiling, after that on goes the bottom, Leaving off the bottom gives room for the screw gun, i use an impact driver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Do you first put a board up on the light tray or just a sheet of drywall attached to the supports?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Right, but if I used dry wall to cover the back half of the soffit would drywall be used for light tray bottom and front? Or is it all a mater of preference on the room.
 
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