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What would you do with this existing wall?

455 Views 6 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  NotShorty
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Apologies in advance for the craptacular diagram...

The existing wall in question (highlighted in yellow) is made of 2x6 studs. I believe is at least partially load bearing because of the layout of the room above it. So if I move/remove it, it will likely be a headache, if it's even possible.

The wall has openings/doorways in it currently, one of which will be made into a door/entry near the front of my theater. The other of which will be filled in. The latter opening is what I'm standing in to take the second picture attached to this message.

The thin red line on my diagram represents a PVC pipe, gas line, and power lines which you can also see in my photo. There is a gap between the existing wall and the PVC pipe of two or three inches max.

So basically my whole point in asking is because my theater will be very width challenged. The best idea I can come up with is using thesoundproofingcompany's two-wall solution with the "new" wall isolated from the ceiling with clips and no clips or hat channel on the walls. Possibly do the same for the wall separating the theater from the bar, with a single wall plus DD&GG on the two foundation walls.

Any other suggestions, wonderful people of AVS?

Baby needs a bottle and toddler will be up from his nap soon. Hope this was clear enough since I was rushing to type it all. Sorry for any confusion.

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Two wall design consumes a lot of room width if the one wall is load bearing and you have to build inside it in order to build using isolated framing. Instead I would use clips and channel on the existing wall, you could build a second wall outside that wall if you need that extra level of isolation. For the perimeter walls in front of foundation walls use the IB3 approach to isolate the framing. On the wall by the bar, your choice either clips and channel or a double framed wall.
Two wall design consumes a lot of room width if the one wall is load bearing and you have to build inside it in order to build using isolated framing. Instead I would use clips and channel on the existing wall, you could build a second wall outside that wall if you need that extra level of isolation. For the perimeter walls in front of foundation walls use the IB3 approach to isolate the framing. On the wall by the bar, your choice either clips and channel or a double framed wall.
I thought that the wall would transmit too many vibrations to the ceiling/floor above since the top plate is coupled to it, but if you think clips and channel are sufficient then I believe you. That's fantastic news!

Thanks for your help, BIG. You are such an asset to this community

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I'm assuming you use either clips/channel or offset ceiling joists to isolate the ceiling and the wall drywall is fitted under the ceiling drywall.
I'm assuming you use either clips/channel or offset ceiling joists to isolate the ceiling and the wall drywall is fitted under the ceiling drywall.
Yeah like in the attachment? The drywall for the walls and drywall overlap and never come into contact with the respective studs or joists so they sorta "float," right? Edit: clips and hat channel though, not planning to use resilient channel.

When I look at it like that I guess sound transmission out of the drywall shell and into the surrounding structure would be pretty limited. Or at least minor enough that it's not worth further cutting into my room's width.


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that is "kind of" the correct method, you need to be careful when you put that first layer of drywall up on the ceiling, the natural method is to hold it up and snug to the wall framing, You can tack up 1/2-3/4 inch spacers then pull down after the first layer is up. If you hire people to hang the drywall don't assume they will follow your directions you need to provide continous on site supervision, trust me.

I'm not sure what they are doing with the sistered ceiling joists and what is their purpose for that design. IT IS NOT COMMON. Also that diagram is not correct for exterior perimeter walls, as I mentioned before you can use the IB3 method and isolate the framing.

About all I agree with is the drywall positioning diagram.
that is the "kind of" the correct method, you need to be careful when you put that first layer of drywall up on the ceiling, the natural method is to hold it up and snug to the wall framing, You can tack up 1/2-3/4 inch spacers then pull down after the first layer is up. If you hire people to hang the drywall don't assume they will follow your directions you need to provide continous on site supervision, trust me.

I'm not sure what they are doing with the sistered ceiling joists and what is their purpose for that design. IT IS NOT COMMON. Also that diagram is not correct for exterior perimeter walls, as I mentioned before you can use the IB3 method and isolate the framing.

About all I agree with is the drywall positioning diagram.
Yeah sorry I was only referring to the drywall portion of that diagram. It's the best I could find at the time.

The more I read the more I realize I'm going to have to do a lot of the work myself if I want it done right, as daunting as that is.

Thanks again for your help.

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